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Discussion Starter #21
Just a hunch here based on everything you have already checked. I think your 95 5SFE engine still had an internal coil inside the distributor. If it does, remove the distributor cap and rotor and then remove the coil. Check the underside of the coil for hairline cracks. These generations with the coil internal to the distributor had a habit of developing hairline cracks over time and shorting themselves to ground on any metal inside the distributor. This would be worse under load as when accelerating and in damp weather.

Mike
Aloha and thank you, Mike.

I was just now onlining some research about testing the coil as CamryFl said I should, so I will be pulling Dcap, rotor and coil to check and test. Back at you all helpful people later.

Mahalo and Aloha,
Jeff
 

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Some people are suspecting the EGR system is letting too much exhaust in. Because you may be getting too much exhaust, the EGR Valve pipe shouldn't be clogged. Even if it's clogged, you should be able to spray cleaner into the pipe without taking it off. But if you really want to remove it:

How to Remove EGR Valve Pipe?


Again, I'd think the EGR Valve pipe is not clogged. There are two ways to get too much exhaust: a) the EGR Valve is stuck open, or b) the EGR Valve is opened too soon. The EGR Valve is probably not stuck open, because you have taken it off and (I assume) tested it (Scotty Kilmer has a youtube video titled "This Illegal Mod Will Make Your Car Run Better" about blocking the EGR Valve).

To make the EGR Valve not open at all from its normally closed position (so as to eliminate b above), you can just pull the side tubing. You will get P0401, but the EGR system shouldn't be activated at all and the car should still run fine.

Edit to add: Now I am not sure if the EGR Valve might open, due to Bernoulli's principle, if enough vacuum is created just from air flow. So you might need to further plug (or cover) the EGR Valve side port, or plug (or cover) the tubing that connects to the Q port of the EGR Vacuum Modulator. See: 2000 Camry 2.2 has EGR issue.


The IAC (idle air control) is to give fresh air when the throttle plate is closed. So the IAC shouldn't be the issue when you have the throttle plate wide open. But if you are interested in cleaning the IAC:

Camry rattling when coming to stop in drive but not neutral.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Some people are suspecting the EGR system is letting too much exhaust in. Because you may be getting too much exhaust, the EGR Valve pipe shouldn't be clogged. Even if it's clogged, you should be able to spray cleaner into the pipe without taking it off. But if you really want to remove it:

How to Remove EGR Valve Pipe?

Again, I'd think the EGR Valve pipe is not clogged. There are two ways to get too much exhaust: a) the EGR Valve is stuck open, or b) the EGR Valve is opened too soon. The EGR Valve is probably not stuck open, because you have taken it off and (I assume) tested it (Scotty Kilmer has a youtube video titled "This Illegal Mod Will Make Your Car Run Better" about blocking the EGR Valve).

To make the EGR Valve not open at all from its normally closed position, you can just pull the side tubing. You will get P0401, but the EGR system shouldn't be activated at all and the car should still run fine.

The IAC (idle air control) is to give fresh air when the throttle plate is closed. So the IAC shouldn't be the issue when you have the throttle plate wide open. But if you are interested in cleaning the IAC:

Camry rattling when coming to stop in drive but not neutral.
Aloha and Thank you, Andy

Thank you for the input and info. Those links look like they should be good reading later when I'm finished with my beer. :)

Mahalo and Aloha,
Jeff
 

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Check fuel pressure under these conditions:

should be 38-44 PSI with KOEO, B+ and FP shorted together at underhood diagnostic connector
should be 31-37 PSI with engine warmed up and idling, and vacuum hose on fuel pressure regulator connected
should be 38-44 PSI with engine warmed up and idling, and vacuum hose on fuel pressure regulator disconnected and plugged
 
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Discussion Starter #25
Check fuel pressure under these conditions:

should be 38-44 PSI with KOEO, B+ and FP shorted together at underhood diagnostic connector
should be 31-37 PSI with engine warmed up and idling, and vacuum hose on fuel pressure regulator connected
should be 38-44 PSI with engine warmed up and idling, and vacuum hose on fuel pressure regulator disconnected and plugged
Aloha and thank you for your help and thoughts. However, I did that and all checked well (see very first detailed post). Thank you again for your thoughts

Mahalo and Aloha,
Jeff
 

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short-throw dipstick
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Oh my bad, gotta stop skimming. I'm going to just jump to the end based on what we normally see around here with gen3's: since you get no codes and it's running weird, open up the ECU and check for blown capacitors. Then, either get a kit and solder in new caps or send it out to a rebuild service. Or get a replacement that's the same P/N

Aloha and thank you for your help and thoughts. However, I did that and all checked well (see very first detailed post). Thank you again for your thoughts

Mahalo and Aloha,
Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Aloha and good morning Everyone,

I went ahead and replaced the primary coil. Significant improvement when the engine is cold, very driveable. When the engine got to normal operating temp, same acceleration problem still exists. Time to pull the EGR pipe? :(

Mahalo and Aloha,
Jeff
 

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No, not the pipe.


Pull the tubing circled in blue in:

2000 Camry 2.2 has EGR issue.

Cover the open side port of the EGR Valve (e.g., with plastic wrap). Do not (bother to) cover or plug the pulled tubing; makes no difference.

(Alternatively, you can pull the tubing circled in red, then cover or plug it.)

Then let us know if it makes any difference.


I assume you already made sure the EGR Valve is not stuck open (i.e., the diaphragm moves when you apply vacuum to the open side port, and the diaphragm holds).

 

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Discussion Starter #29
So, been doing research, following links. A couple of them have me wondering about the vacuum levels from the TB ports P, E, and R. I cleaned the ports (i think). The inner TB opening for P is large, E and R quite small. After cleaning and blowing through, reattached hoses started car. Plenty vacuum at P, some adequate at E, but R still seems negligible. Have to really rev engine to feel the tiniest of vacuum on my fingertip. If i get hold of a vacuum tester gauge, what vacuums should i expect at each TB port?

Mahalo and Aloha,
Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #30
No, not the pipe.


Pull the tubing circled in blue in:

2000 Camry 2.2 has EGR issue.

Cover the open side port of the EGR Valve (e.g., with plastic wrap). Do not (bother to) cover or plug the pulled tubing; makes no difference.

(Alternatively, you can pull the tubing circled in red, then cover or plug it.)

Then let us know if it makes any difference.


I assume you already made sure the EGR Valve is not stuck open (i.e., the diaphragm moves when you apply vacuum to the open side port, and the diaphragm holds).

Pulled tubing, covered EGR port, started, backing up car died.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Follow ups...

In the earlier message about port vacuum research, these were 2 links i checked out ...


Yes I have previously pulled EGR from top of pipe cleaned and tested. The valve/diaphragm moved properly. I might not have tested it well enough/properly relative to it's "holding" power.

Pulled Modulator tubing, covered port opening (red circle from above link/photo). Started, died upon attempting to reverse.

Jeff
 

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When I went through this with the '00 Camry here, this video, recommended by another TN member is what I used:


I ended up finding the vacuum hose running from the EGR valve -> down to the VSV (mounted underneath the Intake Manifold on the '00) was cracked / loose @ the VSV port, and the vacuum hose running to the MAP sensor was degraded. Fixed both. Also had to change out the Brake Booster Vacuum line running from the Intake -> to the metal piping on the firewall, that hose was dry-cracked from age / and degrading. I also ran some nylon string trimmer line through all the hoses & ports to make sure nothing was gummed up or blocked. Hope the info. helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
When I went through this with the '00 Camry here, this video, recommended by another TN member is what I used:


I ended up finding the vacuum hose running from the EGR valve -> down to the VSV (mounted underneath the Intake Manifold on the '00) was cracked / loose @ the VSV port, and the vacuum hose running to the MAP sensor was degraded. Fixed both. Also had to change out the Brake Booster Vacuum line running from the Intake -> to the metal piping on the firewall, that hose was dry-cracked from age / and degrading. I also ran some nylon string trimmer line through all the hoses & ports to make sure nothing was gummed up or blocked. Hope the info. helps.
Okie Dokie, VSV here I come. Tomorrow, of course. Beer 'thirty now, wrenches put to bed for the night, lol

Mahalo and Aloha,
Jeff
 

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That's a good video (by Justin Le) for the EGR system, but don't use it for our VSV for EGR. That VSV looks like our VSV for EVAP.

If you really want to test our VSV for EGR to make sure it's not stuck open, see last part of:
2000 Camry 2.2 has EGR issue.

There used to be "1999 Toyota Camry Factory Service Repair Manual" floating around. In SFI.pdf, page 43:
304945



However (sorry), if you cover the open side port of the EGR Valve, you should be bypassing the EGR system entirely (e.g., you can also completely forget about the P and R ports, VSV for EGR, etc.). The car should not run worse.

(One easy way to test the EGR Valve in place is to depress the diaphragm manually. It should move freely. After depressing the diaphragm, hold finger to open side port, release the diaphragm, then verify that the diaphragm stays depressed.)

But if your car then runs worse (consistently?), then I am sorry I really don't know what to say. The new/another ECU suggestion by insightbrewery is getting more appealing.

By the way, I also cannot imagine how the E port, which goes to the EVAP system, could be your problem. So you shouldn't need to worry about the E port either.

You did say you bought a new MAP sensor. Has it been replaced or still on the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
That's a good video (by Justin Le) for the EGR system, but don't use it for our VSV for EGR. That VSV looks like our VSV for EVAP.

If you really want to test our VSV for EGR to make sure it's not stuck open, see last part of:
2000 Camry 2.2 has EGR issue.

There used to be "1999 Toyota Camry Factory Service Repair Manual" floating around. In SFI.pdf, page 43:
View attachment 304945


However (sorry), if you cover the open side port of the EGR Valve, you should be bypassing the EGR system entirely (e.g., you can also completely forget about the P and R ports, VSV for EGR, etc.). The car should not run worse.

(One easy way to test the EGR Valve in place is to depress the diaphragm manually. It should move freely. After depressing the diaphragm, hold finger to open side port, release the diaphragm, then verify that the diaphragm stays depressed.)

But if your car then runs worse (consistently?), then I am sorry I really don't know what to say. The new/another ECU suggestion by insightbrewery is getting more appealing.

By the way, I also cannot imagine how the E port, which goes to the EVAP system, could be your problem. So you shouldn't need to worry about the E port either.

You did say you bought a new MAP sensor. Has it been replaced or still on the way.
Aloha Andy et. al.,

Ok, so without pulling the VSV off the car, I pulled tube from Modulator Port Q and from the tube from the EGR and could blow air through with key off. With key on, could not blow air through. I wasn't under the car to "hear" any air coming out "filter", but i couldn't blow anything into the tubing, total resistance to air blowing in/through. Does this sound like bad VSV? Or do i actually have to take the VSV off and apply and apply batter voltage directly?
I must say I get a bit confused when reading various posts here and on other threads about pulling hoses/tubing and then covering openings / blowing air into openings. "Tubes" and "ports" I understand, but reading various posts/threads seems that the terms get a bit mixed up. At least to m, lol. Maybe I should try reading and focusing BEFORE the beer. :)

And what about my previous posts #30/#31 about the blocking ports and the car dying upon driving? Is that good or bad?

Thanks again for all the input, thoughts, help. Back later.
Jeff
 

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Your VSV for EGR is most likely good, just with the tests while off and while idling, without removing the VSV.

I use "port" to refer to an opening on something, like the side port on the EGR Valve, or the Q port of the EGR Vacuum Modulator. I use "tube" to mean a small flexible hose.

Sorry, I don't know how to explain what happened. If you cover the open side port of the EGR Valve (thus bypassing the EGR system entirely), your car should not run worse.

If it stays the same, then the EGR system is not the issue. If it runs better, as in "2000 Camry 2.2 has EGR issue", then you can focus on the EGR system. But I don't understand how it can run worse (i.e., previously you could at least try to accelerate, but now it dies even just attempting to reverse). Sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Your VSV for EGR is most likely good, just with the tests while off and while idling, without removing the VSV.

I use "port" to refer to an opening on something, like the side port on the EGR Valve, or the Q port of the EGR Vacuum Modulator. I use "tube" to mean a small flexible hose.

Sorry, I don't know how to explain what happened. If you cover the open side port of the EGR Valve (thus bypassing the EGR system entirely), your car should not run worse.

If it stays the same, then the EGR system is not the issue. If it runs better, as in "2000 Camry 2.2 has EGR issue", then you can focus on the EGR system. But I don't understand how it can run worse (i.e., previously you could at least try to accelerate, but now it dies even just attempting to reverse). Sorry.
Nothing to be sorry about, Andy. This certainly is not your fault. Most likely my Wife's fault. Or maybe my Son's. Can't blame the Dog, she doesn't have thumbs so can't drive. LOL
Nothing that drinking beer and ruminating can't solve eventually. On the 'morrow.

Mahalo and Aloha,
Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Aloha Everyone,

Any new ideas or thoughts? I'm kind of at a standstill for now, feeling lost.

Mahalo and Aloha,
Jeff
 

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Can only tell you what I would do, not what you should do:

New plugs and wires (tune-up items),
Pull Fuel Pump, inspect filter sock, drain tank: install a new or (good used) pump,
If no joy, pull fuel injectors, and flow test.
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But would also, as a sanity check, pull top timing cover, and verify static mechanical timing. Check motor integrity. * Verify static mechanical timing first, "it's free to do".
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And would ensure primary electrical system voltage is good, - especially- to both ignition and fuel system components.

You know your vehicle best: above is not meant to be a "step-by-step" guide, use any order ... that makes sense to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Aloha and Good Morning, CFL...

Thanks for the thoughts. I suppose what confounds me the most is how well the engine will rev when in park in the driveway, yet stutter under load in gear. Some of the issues seem to me that they would be present in park as well, i.e. fuel quality issues, bad injector, plugs/wires. I would expect them to manifest their faults when reving in the driveway also. The timing issue does intrigue me. I've read somewhere that this engine has a "static" belt tensioner and that over time the belt may stretch and then timing is off. I've done 3 different timing belt/chain projects in the past and in each of them if the timing was off by even 1 tooth, it was apparent from the outset in trying to start the car, so the belt thing seems less likely a culprit. I also read something about valves getting out of clearance and needing to be reshimmed; this is where the water goes from under my chin to over my nose, lol. Not the clearance/shimming, I got that no problem, but more how the valves being out of clearance might manifest under load but not in driveway. With the fact that when my engine is cold the low idle is smooth but warm engine low idle is rough, I'm still thinking I'm missing something in the vacuum/EGR concept. Our O'Reilly's here doesn't have a rental vacuum test kit/gauge and my neighbor who does have one is gone atm, so I haven't done vacuum tests yet like I'd like to.

I found this link and will be attempting more tests. Sure wish the car would throw me a CEL code.


Mahalo and Aloha,
Jeff
 
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