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Discussion Starter #1
Hi I have a 2006 highlander hybrid with a passenger front axle to remove.

The carrier bearing is rusted in the carrier bearing mount.

I removed the steering knuckle, the bearing spring clip and the 14 mm nut at the bottom of the bearing mount.

I'm hammering on the inside of the bearing with a chisel and a crow bar and ballpien hammer.

No luck yet.

I remember I had ntb do this job years ago on an identical 06 highlander and they cut the axle between the tranny and the carrier bearing, removed the tranny half and beat on the cut shaft at the bearing side till the stub was mangled into a bloody mess. But they got it out.

What I don't know if they took the whole mount out and put it into a vice or if they just hammered on it while the mount held in place.

I'm concerned the mount might not be able to stand up to that severe beating if I cut the shaft and beat on it while it's only supported by the bearing mount which is attached to a frame from only one side? Essential im beating on a lever in that sense.
 

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If you don't have an air chisel (this usually works) then I would cut the shaft like you mentioned. Then take the entire mount out. To the get the bearing free I've used 3 methods

- hang the axle vertically and soak with penetrating oil, adding oil every few hours. Soak several days
- heat with a torch
- smack the cut part of the axle on a concrete block

Smacking the axle usually works but you may have to use a combination of the above. Best of luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
That's great to hear on the chisel.


I have an 8 gallon compressor so I'll pick the 14 dollar chisel up at Wal-Mart.


These arrows are where I was pounding with the hammer and cold chisel. I just wanna confirm....

You just jamb the chisel onto the inside of the bearing where my arrows point and wail away on it wherever you can reach it with the chisel and that normal busts it out?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
How to you attach the slide hammer to these cv joints to yank from behind the 'tullip' aka the black cup that's just outside of the carrier bearing.

I've used my slide hammer in the past to yank out the fwd bearings... but can't figure out how the pros use it for this application? I see homemade axle puller adapters on Google...

I got three bolts out of the carrier mount easily.... but the lower most forward one is super tight to the tulip and I can only get a wrench on it but not tight enough that I don't risk stripping it. The oil pan blocks the wrench path some. I could try offset wrenches or pivoting ratchet wrenches for that or a 14mm crows foot? Anyone ever got this bolt off. What's the best way in that tight off angled spot.

I could put all bolts back in and cut the shaft and beat it with my 3 lb sledge....I'm working in the driveway from my back so im not real confident I'll be able to line up some killer hammer hits on the stub. I'll be able to beat it decently though.

Yesterday i krioled it all up real good and propane torched it then attacked it with the air chisel....it didn't budge it. It did cut out a lot of the inner race and now I can see the balls in the bearing which is cool.

What should I try next you think?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Problem solved.

Heres the solution to anyone who checks this thread.

I never could get the bearing out of the mount.

Eventually i got the mount with bearing out of the car but removing the four bolts.

One bolt has very very little clearance. For this one you need a ratcheting pivoting 14mm (i think) wrench. I hit the bolts with pb blaster for a few days to make sure i didnt strip one.

With the bearing and mount out of the car i soaked it with lubricant in a vertical position
For a few hours then starting trying to beat it out with a bfh.... nothing. I put it in a vise and took the bfh to it.... nothing. I rented a three jaw gear puller and gave it hell with my impact gun.... nothing.

So i threw in the white flag and took it to ntb.... They got it on the press with 5 tons of pressure and they gave up. Told me they couldn't get it.

Took it to my toyota master tech, gave him 100 bills and he got it in like 5 min.

Heres what he did that no one else tried.

- first he cleaned crude outta the race that bearing needed to slide out of with a pick
-heated the mount with an oxy acetelyn torch
- put it in the press and it "came out no problem".... at 4 tons or 4000 lbs of pressure i can't remember.....

I dont got a press or an oxy acetelyn torch but i should have one. Even 4000 tons of pressure isn't my definition of easy but you get the idea.

The new one with some grease slide right into the cleaned up mount like no problem at all.....

So that being said this job SUCKED. I lost time with my kids, and time i could of made money picking up other work.....I would of been better just paying my master tech 250 just to do the whole job.


But it was fun....in a nothing else matters sort of way i guess.....
 

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An oxy acetylene torch beats propane any day. The reason is it is considerably hotter, and heating quickly is key. You need to get the outer piece extremely hot so that it expands before that heat travels into the inner piece causing that also to expand and re tighten. Mapp gas may work where propane won't if you don't have acetylene.
 

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Problem solved.

Heres the solution to anyone who checks this thread.

I never could get the bearing out of the mount.

Eventually i got the mount with bearing out of the car but removing the four bolts.

One bolt has very very little clearance. For this one you need a ratcheting pivoting 14mm (i think) wrench. I hit the bolts with pb blaster for a few days to make sure i didnt strip one.

With the bearing and mount out of the car i soaked it with lubricant in a vertical position
For a few hours then starting trying to beat it out with a bfh.... nothing. I put it in a vise and took the bfh to it.... nothing. I rented a three jaw gear puller and gave it hell with my impact gun.... nothing.

So i threw in the white flag and took it to ntb.... They got it on the press with 5 tons of pressure and they gave up. Told me they couldn't get it.

Took it to my toyota master tech, gave him 100 bills and he got it in like 5 min.

Heres what he did that no one else tried.

- first he cleaned crude outta the race that bearing needed to slide out of with a pick
-heated the mount with an oxy acetelyn torch
- put it in the press and it "came out no problem".... at 4 tons or 4000 lbs of pressure i can't remember.....

I dont got a press or an oxy acetelyn torch but i should have one. Even 4000 tons of pressure isn't my definition of easy but you get the idea.

The new one with some grease slide right into the cleaned up mount like no problem at all.....

So that being said this job SUCKED. I lost time with my kids, and time i could of made money picking up other work.....I would of been better just paying my master tech 250 just to do the whole job.


But it was fun....in a nothing else matters sort of way i guess.....
Good job. I gave up on a 1998 ES300 because it had rust and body damage that wasn't worth fixing. I am now wondering if using Loctite or CRC freeze spray on that rusted frozen bearing would shrink it enough that an air hammer on the cv joint housing would break the bearing free..
 
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