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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
{pix}

I'm trying to remove my stock headunit and I'm told that I have to remove the dashboard to get to it. There were four screws (red arrow in picture points to one) that I took out, but I can't pull on it much before it snaps back into place. I'm also afraid of ripping out the clock and emergency flasher wires since they move alone with the dashboard while the headunit stays in place. Will I have to remove the lower part of the dash (blue bracket)? That part seems really hard for a newbie like me :(.

Headunit problem if anyone has any ideas:
Nothing happens when I push the power button... it's like there's no power going to it. However, when I turn on the interior dashboard lights, the radio buttons do light up so I don't think it's a blown fuse. I haven't tried sticking a casette inside because I'm afraid it'll get stuck, so now I'm just tryina see if I can figure out what's wrong after taking out the unit.
 

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Loud Street Machine!
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there are 4 screws under the driver side part of the dash..take them, out and then the rest of it shuold just pull off...you might need to unplug a few things...ie...clock...or cruise if you have it...but that black top piece comes off easy too..so it should be quite easy..i did mine plenty of times before!!
 

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The Return of the Red Coupe
2010 RAV4 V6
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That's an ae92 sedan dash?? hmmm.. u sure that's not an ae101?
 

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XRSs'n
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yeah that blue part of that interior is really hard to tackle...i tried it and i was so afraid it could actually snap....and a trip to the junkyard to get the parts....
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I was looking for screws to remove the bottom blue part and it looks really hard... doesn't seem like a screwdriver would fit very easily. I'll check it out in the morning when there's more light.

I'm pretty sure it's an AE92. It's the white one in this pic:
{pic}
 

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You have to sit on the floor and look up the steering area. You will see the screws for the blue part. Open them and slowly pull it by 1-2 cms. That will release the top portion. Don't have to do anything with the clock or any other plugs. The black plastic part (top)should come out completely, just maneuver it out. The instrument cluster stays in. I have done it on my sedan, and I am not great with this stuff.
As far as the actual problem with your unit, I am not sure but maybe you have separate powers, so check the fuses anyways, but it seems its your original and you are lucky that it worked up to now anyways!
 

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Sounds like you just have a fuse out. The lighting circuit and the radio power circuit are separate. Check your fuse box. However, if a fuse is blown there must be a reason for it blowing, so replacing the fuse may not solve your problem. The fuse may blow again and again. There is usually a fuse inside the radio as well, so if replacing the one in the fuse panel doesn't work you may have to pull the radio and check this fuse too.

The radio removal procedure is actually kind of a pain in the ass. The blue-colored center console trim runs all the way across the dash to the other side of the steering wheel, and is held in place by screws and clips. Some of the screws to the left of the steering wheel that hold this piece on are not accessible except by taking the driver's side knee bolster panel off (it is the panel under the dash that runs from the far left side of the dash to the left side of the center console). There are only 2-3 screws on either side of the steering wheel that actually hold the console trim on...the entire center portion of it is held in place by clips. You will have to unplug the rear defroster switch, lighter and ashtray lights, and the cigarette lighter itself...don't forget to plug them back in.

In order for the center console trim (the blue thing) to come out cleanly, you also have to remove the steering column trim. There are about 6 screws underneath it that have to be taken out, and then the top and bottom portions of the column trim can be removed from the steering column.

There are 7 screws that hold the black instrument cluster bezel on...3 under the blue center console trim and 4 going around over the cluster itself (the ones you arrowed). The clock and flasher switch do not have to be unplugged, but unplugging them makes it easier to work on the radio since the black cluster trim can be put completely out of the way (the clock is easy enough to reset). The radio itself is held in place by four small bolts that attach it to the metal framework inside the dash. If you are going to remove it, do yourself a favor and install a CD player. Factory decks rarely last more than about 10 years under normal circumstances, and it sounds like yours has about had it. Cassette tapes are thoroughly dead technology anyway...you might as well have an 8-track player in there. Good luck! Regards, Aaron
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Wow, what a pain to remove!! I'll still try though... thanks.

If I get a new headunit, will it slip in and out with those DIN tools or will I have to go through the same procedure to remove it? The reason is because my car has no alarm and it's easy to break in using a slim-jim and I don't want a new headunit getting jacked by a thief.. but there's no worry about that if they have to remove the console et al. to get to it :lol:
 

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The aftermarket headunit can be mounted with the factory radio brackets. There are holes on the sides of the aftermarket deck that accomodate the factory mounting brackets perfectly...which is pretty cool. This provides a very secure mounting that fits flush with the dash...just like to factory radio does. Thieves usually don't dismantle things, though, they just BREAK them! If they want your deck bad enough they will get it, but mounting it with the original brackets will make it tougher. Good luck! Regards, Aaron
 
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