getting the proper tool is one thing, PM 2advanced, he's done alot....
AE92 Tranny replacement
So I found myself a low mileage tranny and I've never replaced a tranny before.
I'm hoping that you guys can give me some tips/advice that might make the process a little easier.
Anything would be appreciated. Thanks!
I'm hoping that you guys can give me some tips/advice that might make the process a little easier.
Anything would be appreciated. Thanks!
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Will do, thanks
remove the cross member that goes from front to back of the engine bay.... also, there is a plastic cover in the middle of that cross member... there is a tranny mount that has it's bolts in there... .don't be fooled, it's there :lol:
Well first off are you planning to take out the engine then do the tranny swap out of the car or are you planning on dropping the tranny and leaving the engine in the car.
if you're going to take out the engine there are 5 mounts one on the drivers side, passanger side. one in front of the engine and one in the rear (this one is very tricky but straight forward) I suggest for this mount you buy a 1/2" long extension when i mean long i mean long.. and you will need a U joint as well with a 17mm socket (i believe) and you would loosen this by putting the extension bar through the hole that the steering rack goes through to turn your wheels * note that you have to remove the wheel to see the whole on the passanger side.
oh and there is also another mount at the bottom of the engine as well in the center cross member.
i'll just be descibing the tricky stuff.
as for the CV joints removing them from the tranny. use a small crow bar, hammer and extension. use the crow bar to give tension of the CV joint (so like you're trying to pry it out) and use the extension and hammer to whack it out
kinda tricky by yourself but its do-able
if you don't have a 30mm socket to remove the drive shaft from the hub thats okay. remove the 3 bolts on the bottom of the spindle that hold the arm to the spindle and remove the 2 bolts that hold the shocks to the spindle. this way you should be able to pull out the CV with the spindle.
oh if you're going to remove the engine label everything with masking tape and a pen. this will make your life so much easier
when lifting out the engine lift the passanger side higher than the driver side. so basically the passager side chain will be shorter than the drivers side.
also when lifting out the engine and putting it back in..remove the driver side mount and front mount .. like litterally remove. them ! take them out and put them on the floor out. its only a few bolts. but it will save you alot of hassle trying to align the mounts when putting it back in.
putting the tranny back with the motor
taking out the tranny from the engine is very straight forward.
putting it back together is a different story. now this is when you need the extra help.
there are a few guide type things on the engine that align with the tranny. try your best to align them. and PUSH!
thats all i can really say.
also here are small things.. drain the fluid from the tranny and what not. Kitty litter is a optional but a good idea if you can get it or absorb-all. it will clean up all the oil spills on the floor.. and trust me you're going to have alot of that.
i dunno what else to say but post your questions and i'll try my best to answer them
sorry for the messy order but those are the manger problems
if you're going to take out the engine there are 5 mounts one on the drivers side, passanger side. one in front of the engine and one in the rear (this one is very tricky but straight forward) I suggest for this mount you buy a 1/2" long extension when i mean long i mean long.. and you will need a U joint as well with a 17mm socket (i believe) and you would loosen this by putting the extension bar through the hole that the steering rack goes through to turn your wheels * note that you have to remove the wheel to see the whole on the passanger side.
oh and there is also another mount at the bottom of the engine as well in the center cross member.
i'll just be descibing the tricky stuff.
as for the CV joints removing them from the tranny. use a small crow bar, hammer and extension. use the crow bar to give tension of the CV joint (so like you're trying to pry it out) and use the extension and hammer to whack it out
kinda tricky by yourself but its do-able
if you don't have a 30mm socket to remove the drive shaft from the hub thats okay. remove the 3 bolts on the bottom of the spindle that hold the arm to the spindle and remove the 2 bolts that hold the shocks to the spindle. this way you should be able to pull out the CV with the spindle.
oh if you're going to remove the engine label everything with masking tape and a pen. this will make your life so much easier
when lifting out the engine lift the passanger side higher than the driver side. so basically the passager side chain will be shorter than the drivers side.
also when lifting out the engine and putting it back in..remove the driver side mount and front mount .. like litterally remove. them ! take them out and put them on the floor out. its only a few bolts. but it will save you alot of hassle trying to align the mounts when putting it back in.
putting the tranny back with the motor
taking out the tranny from the engine is very straight forward.
putting it back together is a different story. now this is when you need the extra help.
there are a few guide type things on the engine that align with the tranny. try your best to align them. and PUSH!
thats all i can really say.
also here are small things.. drain the fluid from the tranny and what not. Kitty litter is a optional but a good idea if you can get it or absorb-all. it will clean up all the oil spills on the floor.. and trust me you're going to have alot of that.
i dunno what else to say but post your questions and i'll try my best to answer them
sorry for the messy order but those are the manger problems
a few sidenotes....
all of the toyota sensors are made so they only fit into the sensor it belongs to... and they are color coded.... marking what sensor goes where etc is not necessary..... i rehooked ALL of my electronics myself when doing my swap and i had no issues whatsoever
my mr2 is a 31mm axle nut.... don't remember because we used an SAE socket on the ae92.... i would double check before ya buy a socket for that
on my ae92, if you are pulling the motor, completely dissasemble the driver side motor mount.... getting that mount around the battery tray in the ae92 coupe is no fun
the axles, at least in my ae92, popped out pretty easily.... getting them in was more difficult
all of the toyota sensors are made so they only fit into the sensor it belongs to... and they are color coded.... marking what sensor goes where etc is not necessary..... i rehooked ALL of my electronics myself when doing my swap and i had no issues whatsoever
my mr2 is a 31mm axle nut.... don't remember because we used an SAE socket on the ae92.... i would double check before ya buy a socket for that
on my ae92, if you are pulling the motor, completely dissasemble the driver side motor mount.... getting that mount around the battery tray in the ae92 coupe is no fun
the axles, at least in my ae92, popped out pretty easily.... getting them in was more difficult
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
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