[blinkme_210]

Hi there, I'm new to this forum.

Anyways, my parents recently passed on a 2000 Camry onto my little brother, and already he wants me to change out the stock deck.

Now my question is, do I need to buy a mounting/installation kit to install on a new aftermarket head unit? I know that Nissans & Toyotas are usually troublesome, I would rather know before I start ripping the dash apart only to find out I need to buy a kit. Thanks a lot guys.

 

[jackfrost1031]

at walmart I bought the little dash kit, which is a pocket for below the head unit and some plastic trim pieces. It also came with a wiring pinout, and I followed that and crimped my own wires in an hour or two. I think it cost $USD 12

 

[Phi]

It's super easy. All you'll need are basic tools, wire harness and some sort of DIN pocket to fill the void.

This'll help
http://www.installdr.com/InstallDocs/Toyota/PDF/869037.pdf

good luck and welcome to TN!

 

[blinkme_210]

Here's a picture of the stock deck, although I can't tell if it's 2 DIN's or 3 DIN's.

 

[blinkme_210]

I already know how to install aftermarket decks, I just need to know if I need to buy a mounting kit for it? Or is it a "pocket kit" like jackfrost said?

Just read through the mount radio section, but it doesn't clearly say if I need a mounting kit or not

 

[Phi]

Your bro's stock deck is 1.5 DIN. The aftermkt deck is 1 DIN which will result in a void of 1 DIN which you have to fill. You can pick up DIN cubby holes from a scrapyard out of virtually any car.

 

[Phi]

Here's what you can expect to find once you pull out the stock deck. Note: the pic is from a 92-96 Camry. It's the same for most, if not all 'yotas.

 

[Luc]

blinkme_210, the deck is double DIN (2-DIN). It looks like a 1.5 DIN, but it's not, the top piece is just a filler. You will not need a kit, just a harness adapter.

 

[blinkme_210]

Well, if it's 1.5 DIN, then I'm going to need something to slide the DIN sleeve in, and mount the bracket properly. Guess I'm going to have to pay get a mounting kit after all. Thanks for the help guys,

 

[woshiagni]

You don't use the sleeve/cage. The new head unit screws directly to brackets on the left and right (see Phi's picture). Those brackets then bolt onto the frame of the dash opening.

The opening is double din, your new head unit will either be single or double din. Even though the stock unit is 1.5 din, it shouldn't cause any problems for you.
You just need a harness and a pocket, like Phi and Luc said.

 

[spydrvnm]

psh, my gen 3 was a single din cassette deck:

 

[blinkme_210]

Well, here it is finished, and placed in the dash. Now, only need to find a pocket for it to finish it off.

 

[Speshull Droo]

looks pretty good, man.:thumbup:

 

[blinkme_210]

The only little problem I had was, there were 2 orange light wires coming from the snap on harness, and the radio only had 1. Nonetheless, I just spliced it with the matching one from the radio, and left the other one.

 

[eddiem67]

you can buy that pocket just about any stero shop, best buy, frys...

 

[blinkme_210]

Lol, well our Best Buy up here in Canada doesn't stock much. The pocket kits they had were for pre-1992 Toyotas, etc. But yeh, I found a pocket kit from a reputable independent car audio shop, gonna install it tomorrow when I have time.

 

[Luc]

I see you've used tape to connect the wires. Try and get some snow caps for free from Best Buy or shop and use a plier to crimp the wires, unless you have a crimper.

 

[blinkme_210]

The harness was quite long, so I just stripped off about 1 inch, and twisted them tightly together. After all, the wires don't get tugged on or anything, so it should be fine.

Butt connectors are so useless. Crimp it, and the wires will just slide right out. Not worth the time & trouble, not to mention also having to heat it too. Plus, I don't feel like forking out some more money for butt connectors. Worst comes to worst with the electrical tape, I'll just retape it. No biggie.

 

[Luc]

Butt connectors aren't useless when used with the right tool. A true crimper will secure that connection every time, whereas it's a 50/50 chance for pliers. You don't need to heat it, unless you are soldering and using heat shrink tube. If the yellow (constant 12V) or red (switched 12V) wires ever touch the brackets or any ground source, you'll be blowing up fuses, and risk damaging the headunit.

 

[blinkme_210]

There we go, looks a lot better now. Oh yeh, I took into account what you said Luc, and went back and double taped everything & bundled it all nicely.