[Alicia K]

Here is my current shifting issue...

Unless you are in park and shift into drive, first is nearly non existent unless you manually put it there.
From park into drive first will catch but it skips second and goes straight to third.
It also seems there is no kickdown from 3-2. For example If i were slowing down to take a turn it stays in 3rd rather than kicking down to 2nd. So RPM's are super low, I try to get the PCM to respond by letting off gas and then full throttle but it does nothing.

Complete tranny flush was done after the rebuild, so fluids are good. I'm not very familiar with transmissions- I just know they are complex and expensive.

Are there any adjustments that could be made that would help this sort of thing? or anything I can test? I live in Hesperia, but will have to drive up & down the cajon pass for work. Before I leave Orange County, I'd like to have some idea of what I am looking at.

Thanks in advance

 

[professor sir]

Definitely sound like a trans issue. Probably an adjustment issue. Take it back to the rebuilder, or whoever installed it.

 

[Alicia K]

It has gotten better but still picky...

seems like the kickdown adjustment has a pretty decent effect on it...

the rebuild was done by myself, my bf and my stepdad... so taking it back will be easy but possibly useless

I plan on taking it in to get a leak down test done im not very happy with the compression so the leak down results will probably help confirm some suspicions i have or it could leave me in the dark again (which is usually my luck)

 

[professor sir]

Did you flush the trans cooler when you did the transmission rebuild? If it is partially clogged it could be affecting the shift quality. You could temporarily by-pass it to see if it makes a difference...
Is there any indication that the cooler could be leaking?...trans fluid in the rad/antifreeze in the trans.

 

[Alicia K]

Did you flush the trans cooler when you did the transmission rebuild? If it is partially clogged it could be affecting the shift quality. You could temporarily by-pass it to see if it makes a difference...
Is there any indication that the cooler could be leaking?...trans fluid in the rad/antifreeze in the trans.

I rebuilt the engine not the trans... I saw what a trans rebuild entails and IDK that that is something I would be ready for without knowing and understanding the components and what they do. i started fiddling around with them at the scrap yard but nothing major lol

As for the leaks, all of the fluids seem to be their own...

 

[swegmike]

What was the original color of the trans fluid? It is red when new, but can be brown to black depending on whether the trans fluid was ever changed.

What I would've done before the flush, would be to drop the trans pan, see if there are metal particles in the pan, clean out what looks like mud due to any wear from the friction material that is used on the trans gear parts, and also replaced the trans filter. You could then flush the trans to get any friction material out of the rest of the trans, which if bad enough could clog the filter again. This would be an opportunity to see if the trans pan has the magnets attached in the correct positions since they are used to attract the metal shavings in the trans.
Also the trans cooler could be blocked as mentioned above preventing the circulation of fluid.
I assume when you filled the trans fluid to the full mark, you then ran the engine and shifted the gears back and forth with foot on brake to move the fluid inside the trans. Then put it in park after it is warmed up, and check the fluid while it is running to see if it is full and add as needed. Then repeat the shifting of gears a couple of times and repeat the full check. When full the engine can be shut off.
Since I don't have a book for this car, I'm not sure if the trans and front differential are a single unit vs. i.e. 1992 Corollas and older whereby the front diff that the axles are plugged into was a separate compartment. Hence this compartment would also be needed to be checked to make sure it is full; otherwise one could loose the trans due to damage in the front diff.
Is this car a luxury model i.e. have overdrive which means it is a 4 speed trans vs. non-overdrive which is 3 speed.
You may want to create an account on autozone.com which will allow you to look at the repair manual for your car for free and check on those areas you have an issue although it may not be as complete as the factory manual.
Usually the trans kick down cable to the throttle will need adjustment if there are hard shifts and noticeable in the 45mph to the 50/55 mph on acceleration which it is trying to shift gears automatically because a of a delay created in the shifting of this gear due tot he mis-adjustment.

Are there any engine or trans lights on or blinking a code which would indicate a trans problem? If so, you can read the OBD-ii code which can be read at advance auto and autozone for free? If they are set, this may indicate which electronic shift solenoid is acting up within the trans. There are about 2-3 shift solenoids in automatics.

kickdown symptoms. Although some modders adjusted the cabe so that it shifts faster for racing.
https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/symptoms-of-a-bad-or-failing-kickdown-cable

tercel repair guides at autozone for 94 tercel kickdown cable adjustment.http://www.autozone.com/repairguide...IC-TRANSAXLE/Adjustments/_/P-0900c15280052250

tercel neutral safety switch adjustment.
http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c15280052257

BTW, I used to live in the Palmdale area in '84-'87 timeframe.

 

[professor sir]

Excellent advice! Changing the trans fluid and the filter will make a difference to shift quality...make sure to flush all of it, not just what's in the pan (most of the fluid is in the torque converter). There are lots of videos on how to flush them. If you find lots of gunk in the pan, you might consider cleaning the cooler with some solvent and back-flushing it (remove both lines, spray/pour in solvent, let it sit awhile, then flush with new trans fluid in the opposite direction to normal flow before re-connecting the lines).
The only thing with the trans that you could have affected with the engine rebuild is the cable adjustment, which I think you said you've already re-adjusted.
The differential is a separate part from the rest of the transmission with its own drain plug at the bottom and fill plug on the back side near the firewall. Check out this video I made on my son's Tercel.

It's a good maintenance procedure. I hope this helps somebody, but it hasn't anything to do with your shift quality issue.

 

[Alicia K]

Excellent advice! Changing the trans fluid and the filter will make a difference to shift quality...make sure to flush all of it, not just what's in the pan (most of the fluid is in the torque converter). There are lots of videos on how to flush them. If you find lots of gunk in the pan, you might consider cleaning the cooler with some solvent and back-flushing it (remove both lines, spray/pour in solvent, let it sit awhile, then flush with new trans fluid in the opposite direction to normal flow before re-connecting the lines).
The only thing with the trans that you could have affected with the engine rebuild is the cable adjustment, which I think you said you've already re-adjusted.
The differential is a separate part from the rest of the transmission with its own drain plug at the bottom and fill plug on the back side near the firewall. Check out this video I made on my son's Tercel. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hgjggt_so3Y
It's a good maintenance procedure. I hope this helps somebody, but it hasn't anything to do with your shift quality issue.

I SO just watched this video like 3 days ago!!! (I'm replacing the CV axles -well trying to, cant get the damn hub nut off-any ideas? hints?) TY for making it =)

 

[Alicia K]

What was the original color of the trans fluid? It is red when new, but can be brown to black depending on whether the trans fluid was ever changed.

What I would've done before the flush, would be to drop the trans pan, see if there are metal particles in the pan, clean out what looks like mud due to any wear from the friction material that is used on the trans gear parts, and also replaced the trans filter. You could then flush the trans to get any friction material out of the rest of the trans, which if bad enough could clog the filter again. This would be an opportunity to see if the trans pan has the magnets attached in the correct positions since they are used to attract the metal shavings in the trans.
Also the trans cooler could be blocked as mentioned above preventing the circulation of fluid.
I assume when you filled the trans fluid to the full mark, you then ran the engine and shifted the gears back and forth with foot on brake to move the fluid inside the trans. Then put it in park after it is warmed up, and check the fluid while it is running to see if it is full and add as needed. Then repeat the shifting of gears a couple of times and repeat the full check. When full the engine can be shut off.
Since I don't have a book for this car, I'm not sure if the trans and front differential are a single unit vs. i.e. 1992 Corollas and older whereby the front diff that the axles are plugged into was a separate compartment. Hence this compartment would also be needed to be checked to make sure it is full; otherwise one could loose the trans due to damage in the front diff.
Is this car a luxury model i.e. have overdrive which means it is a 4 speed trans vs. non-overdrive which is 3 speed.
You may want to create an account on autozone.com which will allow you to look at the repair manual for your car for free and check on those areas you have an issue although it may not be as complete as the factory manual.
Usually the trans kick down cable to the throttle will need adjustment if there are hard shifts and noticeable in the 45mph to the 50/55 mph on acceleration which it is trying to shift gears automatically because a of a delay created in the shifting of this gear due tot he mis-adjustment.

Are there any engine or trans lights on or blinking a code which would indicate a trans problem? If so, you can read the OBD-ii code which can be read at advance auto and autozone for free? If they are set, this may indicate which electronic shift solenoid is acting up within the trans. There are about 2-3 shift solenoids in automatics.

kickdown symptoms. Although some modders adjusted the cabe so that it shifts faster for racing.
https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/symptoms-of-a-bad-or-failing-kickdown-cable

tercel repair guides at autozone for 94 tercel kickdown cable adjustment.http://www.autozone.com/repairguide...IC-TRANSAXLE/Adjustments/_/P-0900c15280052250

tercel neutral safety switch adjustment.
http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c15280052257

BTW, I used to live in the Palmdale area in '84-'87 timeframe.

From what I remember, my BF said at least one of the magnets were broken. We were unaware of placement until I read the 1202 page manual for the trillionth time in its entirety, taking notes on specific areas I was having trouble in. As for the fluid, it was disgusting! The lady we bought the car from said it was her son's and it had only been sitting for 3 weeks (she told my mom 3 months so who knows the truth)

I did shift through all of the gears after filling- a few times actually... I like to try to do things by the book, however since there were so many hands in this job it was hard to do... "set-in-his-ways step dad mechanic" and "know-it-all-kinda boyfriend" I had to put my foot down a few times as to what I wanted with MY car lol

It is the DX so it does have O/D... I have had an account with Autozone account since I had my license... and I even had a friend pay for a Mitchell subscription for my car. I like to go to the forums to see personal experiences to relevant problems... and to help others where/if I can.

Could you clarify on the loosing trans due to damage in the front diff...
I picked up new cv axles (both sides) the other day cause the boots on mine are bad, ball joint was demolished and bushing is nonexistent... all on the passenger side...

The flex-plate got damaged during engine install and from what I can tell it seems as though the trans fluid is coming straight out of the bell housing but I haven't quite pinned it yet. I noticed the clamps on the two hoses that go to the radiator were clamped way below the hard-line, which I can only assume caused pressure to build up?

I know it may be a lot to take in and things may seem all over the place so I apologize, i've been ill the past few days-shouldn't be working on the car when its 30* outside...

Nevertheless, I appreciate all the feedback and time you have put in to helping me with what seems to be a never ending problem...

hopefully we will get to the bottom of this soon

 

[professor sir]

There are always bolts that don't want to come off on old cars...believe me, I live in the heart of the Rust Belt! One of the best tools I ever bought was a "Torque Multiplier". It is essentially a 4:1 geared handle that you put a 1/2" drive ratchet/Johnson bar on one side and your Socket (in my case a 3/4" drive) on the other end. It is way more powerful than even my biggest impact gun (don't use an impact gun in place of a ratchet though..you'll damage it). Mine is just a cheap one I got at Princess Auto (Canadian version of Harbour Freight). I've had it for years and it has never let me down. It is a great alternative for an impact if you don't have a compressor et al.
To get that axle shaft nut off it would be best to have the car on the ground with someone strong standing on the brake pedal. The handle of the torque multiplier will try to turn the opposite direction of the ratchet handle (ie. Lefty Loosy>>>TM handle will turn right), so brace it against the ground (add a pipe if need be). Use an impact socket if possible since they are stronger. If you need extension(s) use the shortest one(s) possible and if need be, support them while turning the ratchet. You should have seen the contraption I had to use to get a crank pulley bolt out last week: Since the front right tire was off to access the bolt, the car was on jack stands. I used a deep impact socket, a 6" ext. to get clear the frame/cradle, the TM with a pipe on it & resting on a jacket stand (to prevent it from turning), then another 14" ext. (to clear the fender since the Johnson bar was too long) which was supported on a floor jack and finally a 24" bar with my adult son and I turning it. We got the SOB off! and nothing broke (Thank God!) And this is why I use Anti Seize Grease on everything!!!
One last thing... if you need to pound on the splined end of the axle shaft to get it out of the hub, be careful not to mushroom the end of the shaft too much. I usually leave a sacrificial nut on the shaft threads and/or use a punch/drift on the end of the shaft to hammer on (usually with a trusting/unsuspecting person holding it).

 

[swegmike]

Did you change the transmission filter and get a new magnet for the one that got chewed up? Did you torque the pan bolts to the correct in-lb rating?
If the front diff is really low or empty the roller bearings in the front diff willl get chewed up or damaged. Thus, you'll need to replace the trans unless you know how to take the front diff apart and fix it.
Moreover, when you got the new axles (hopefully new ones and not rebuilt since remans usually need replacing again in a year) did you get the axle seals too? Axles seals dry out and get hard with age and will cause the front diff fluid to leak out thru these axles seals. So get new axle seals and replace them the correct way and be careful reinserting the axle shaft thru these seals since you can distort/damage them and cause it to slowly leak again.