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· Rotary guy...
89 RX-7 Turbo
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2,456 Posts
brakes*

IIRC the disk brake hub, rotor, caliper, caliper bracket, and hoses from a GTS. Also would be a good idea to get the GTS proportioning valve
you also need the rear lateral links off a GT-S, or just another set of SR5 front links to put in the rear.

I just did this to my SR5 a few months ago
 

· Rotary guy...
89 RX-7 Turbo
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2,456 Posts
what's your experience level? have you ever changed brake pads before?

the e-brake cables are a pain, so is the proportioning valve.

I would say a 5, 1 being filling your tire with air and 10 being rebuilding a transmission :p:
 

· Registered
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damn get over the spelling i did it in a hurry .!!!


From 1-10 how hard is it to do all this .. ?
Aw, just playin around. :D


I'd say 6 possibly 7 because I sort of did a similar thing. I had an extra set of disc brakes /hubs that I rebuilt out of the car (calipers, bearings etc) and swapped them in. Your supposed to tighten the link bolts up with the car at ride height. Since the car is pretty low, i jacked the car up and put the 4 wheels on some wood blocks I made. That raised the car off the ground about an extra foot so I could get under and tighten the bolts with the suspension at ride height. Of course if you have a drive on lift or a pit, it makes it 100% easier. And then after that, each hub is slightly different and my car didn't drive straight so I had to align the car. Since I did it myself with a buddy it was an extra pain. Of course you could just take it somewhere too, but I wanted to put in eccentric bolts to get a little bit more camber.

10 being rebuilding a transmission
Crap, I'm going to be rebuilding my transaxle soon.
 

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I'd say 6 possibly 7 because I sort of did a similar thing. I had an extra set of disc brakes /hubs that I rebuilt out of the car (calipers, bearings etc) and swapped them in. Your supposed to tighten the link bolts up with the car at ride height. Since the car is pretty low, i jacked the car up and put the 4 wheels on some wood blocks I made. That raised the car off the ground about an extra foot so I could get under and tighten the bolts with the suspension at ride height. Of course if you have a drive on lift or a pit, it makes it 100% easier. And then after that, each hub is slightly different and my car didn't drive straight so I had to align the car. Since I did it myself with a buddy it was an extra pain. Of course you could just take it somewhere too, but I wanted to put in eccentric bolts to get a little bit more camber.
You couldn't have just used the floor jack to push the wheel up?
 

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You couldn't have just used the floor jack to push the wheel up?
I'm not getting under a car that's held up with a floor jack under the wheel! Especially when I'm torquing stuff that pushes and pulls the car around...:eek:

Besides, you wouldn't know how far to push wheel up and you'd have to jack up all 4 wheels at the same time to the same height. Not very safe or smart.
 

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how hard it is depends on your parts/doner car. if it was a car from a place with no snow, i would say about a 4. why a 4, because it is just bolting on parts. if the car is from an area that snows it will be rusty and thus be alot harder. the bolts most known to sieze are the bolts by the inner bushing which adjusts toe.
 

· Registered
1988 Corolla SR-5
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3,044 Posts
You'd have to use 4 ramps to do it correctly. Not to many ramps fit under the car before you drive up on them.
True. (mouth working faster than brain again)
Especially if you have lowered it.

Sure would be nice to have a pit in the garage, or a cheap garage lift!
 

· Vroom?
2003 Audi A4
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4,324 Posts
I picked up the whole rear subframe from a gts. Just don't do what I did... REMEMBER to grab the brake proportioning valve off the firewall. new pads, rotors and calipers and there ya go. Also need the e brake cables. Unless you need flex lines too, can't remember.
 

· Rotary guy...
89 RX-7 Turbo
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2,456 Posts
I picked up the whole rear subframe from a gts. Just don't do what I did... REMEMBER to grab the brake proportioning valve off the firewall. new pads, rotors and calipers and there ya go. Also need the e brake cables. Unless you need flex lines too, can't remember.
I'd recommend going this route too because the GT-S subframe is different, it has an extra brace in the middle that bolts to the car. I assume they did this for a reason...

I'm now in the market for a GT-S rear subframe :p
 

· Rotary guy...
89 RX-7 Turbo
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2,456 Posts
extra what? Looks the same to me, just with discs on the ends. Then again it's like how depending where you are is depending if you have a rear sway bar :|
Ignore all the marks, it's a picture I already had... it's the piece coming out of the middle of it with 2 bolt holes coming towards us. My SR5 sub-frame doesn't have that.

I checked the other day though and I do have threaded holes for it to bolt to though.

 

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Ignore all the marks, it's a picture I already had... it's the piece coming out of the middle of it with 2 bolt holes coming towards us. My SR5 sub-frame doesn't have that.

I checked the other day though and I do have threaded holes for it to bolt to though.
So all you need is the bracket then? If I remember when I go home, I'll check my GTS against my DX and see which one has it. It doesn't have anything to do with disc brakes though right?
 

· Rotary guy...
89 RX-7 Turbo
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2,456 Posts
So all you need is the bracket then? If I remember when I go home, I'll check my GTS against my DX and see which one has it. It doesn't have anything to do with disc brakes though right?
nope, I think it's just extra bracing on the GT-S. I'm currently running discs on my SR5 without it. the sub-frames themselves are the same, that extra brace just bolts on.
 
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