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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

Sweeping though all the issues with my Highlander, the alternator is making a squeaking noise but is charging fine. I would like to only replace the bearing behind the pulley. When I spray lubercant behind the pulley and start the car the noise goes away for about 50 miles, so I know it's only that bearing that is bad.

I have searched online and can't seem to find any part numbers for this bearing. Hoping someone here can point me in the right direction on where to get an open bearing or a good price on an aftermarket one!

Also does anyone know if the pulley is pressed in or will it unbolt from the spindle?
 

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2003 Highlander
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Hi Nyh,
2003 V6 AWD 343k miles. Original owner.
I just yesterday ordered an alternator rebuild kit. Mine has the very same symptoms.
I do not know if this will help but here is the specifics on the kit. Sold by Maniac Electric, Dallas TX.
EDIT Ordered via eBay. They have their own website too. The pulley unbolts. 22mm socket I believe. Use an impact wrench do not try holding the rotor by sticking a screwdriver thru the case. See YouTube, many, many good vids on Denso alternator repair. Good luck, Haya....

Alternator Repair Kit for 130 Amp Option on 2001-2003 Toyota Highlander 3.0L, Lexus RX300 Regulator Brushes Bearings - 13905RK
  • 1 × Alternator Ball Bearing NTN 17x47x14mm 6303-2RS - 54700 / 6-303-4N
  • 1 × WBD Bearing 15x35x13mm - 53514 10-2021-4W
  • 1 × Alternator Brush Holder Assembly with Brushes for Denso Replacing 021620-3001 - 74909204 / 39-8207
  • 1 × Voltage Regulator On 2001-03 Toyota Lexus Replacing Denso 126600-0020, -0021, -0022, -0023 - 80904460 / IN6002
1​
$39.99​
$39.99​
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi Nyh,
2003 V6 AWD 343k miles. Original owner.
I just yesterday ordered an alternator rebuild kit. Mine has the very same symptoms.
I do not know if this will help but here is the specifics on the kit. Sold by Maniac Electric, Dallas TX.
EDIT Ordered via eBay. They have their own website too. The pulley unbolts. 22mm socket I believe. Use an impact wrench do not try holding the rotor by sticking a screwdriver thru the case. See YouTube, many, many good vids on Denso alternator repair. Good luck, Haya....

Alternator Repair Kit for 130 Amp Option on 2001-2003 Toyota Highlander 3.0L, Lexus RX300 Regulator Brushes Bearings - 13905RK
  • 1 × Alternator Ball Bearing NTN 17x47x14mm 6303-2RS - 54700 / 6-303-4N
  • 1 × WBD Bearing 15x35x13mm - 53514 10-2021-4W
  • 1 × Alternator Brush Holder Assembly with Brushes for Denso Replacing 021620-3001 - 74909204 / 39-8207
  • 1 × Voltage Regulator On 2001-03 Toyota Lexus Replacing Denso 126600-0020, -0021, -0022, -0023 - 80904460 / IN6002
1​
$39.99​
$39.99​
PERFECT! Thanks for the details, just ordered the 6303-2RS bearing for $4 on eBay.

Your, right videos I see are showing this as a very easy task great info!
 

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PERFECT! Thanks for the details, just ordered the 6303-2RS bearing for $4 on eBay.

Your, right videos I see are showing this as a very easy task great info!
Glad to be of help. Please let us know how it turns out with a follow-up post. Thx, Haya....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
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I tried today to get the bearing swapped out but no luck.

As you can see the tabs that hold the coil wires I could not get loose. Most all videos online I have seen had these taps screwed in. Remove the tabs and than the alternator pops apart. But this alternators tabs seem soldered on or at least not removable. When I went to separate the alternator they got snagged and one cracked as you can see in the last photo.

I put it all back together and it seems to be working fine no alternator lights on.

Does anyone know how to release the back circuit board from the inner coil tabs?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Does anyone have any info on how to take apart these alternators? Every video I have seen the copper is held in by screws but these Highlander alternators seem to be either non serviceable or I'm missing something here
 

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2003 Highlander
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Nhy,
I saw one YouTube vid showing how to de-solder the leads. The insulator at the base of the leads is then pulled up and off, the two case halves can then be separated. I'm gonna be tackling mine within the next few days I'll post my findings. Haya....

Not the same alternator but you'll get the idea. De-solder at about 5:55 min.
 

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Update with pictures.
Nhy,
I went at it from the pulley end and did not take on de-soldering the coil leads. Of course I could not replace the small bearing with this approach but I was able to replace the big bearing at the pulley end, the brushes, and the voltage regulator. BTW-the voltage regulator has a solder joint to melt apart then re-solder. The big bearing was in fact bad.
Anyway, you will need a medium size puller. I sprayed some Kroil at the joint between the outer case and the coil body. That seamed to help loosen the case up a bit, then as I applied pressure with the puller I tapped along the case edge with a dull chisel and hammer. The bearing retainer plate (shown in second photo with the four Philips screws) in this case is beefy enough to pull the bearing off the shaft. Actually it came off pretty easy. Good luck, Haya....
Edit: Installing new brushes improved alternator performance. Prior voltage was 13.9 -14.1 vdc, after 14.4-14.5 vdc.

Picture of puller in position and then with case taken away.

Dec2019kent 101.JPG Dec2019kent 102.JPG
 

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QUOTE="Nyhighlander87, post: 14175609, member: 1213340"]
Thanks, I used that trick when I used to mod supercharged regals that had the 3.8 gm motor. I had to run colder copper plugs to help with the knock retard issues small s/c pulleys give. So every 10k I changed the plugs using this rock the engine forward method! Very handy.

As far as alternator, so far every since I had mine off and sprayed good oil into the bearing while it was facing up with the pulley off it has been quiet. At least 500 miles so far lol. I will be trying again soon tho hopefully I will have some time by the end of this month and give an update on sure it's not going to stay quiet much longer
[/QUOTE]

Nyh- FYI: I noticed the big bearing seal (plastic ring) is exposed when the pulley is off. (Visible in picture in previous post.) Back when I was into off-road bikes I used to re-grease wheel bearings without taking the bearing out of the wheel. Simple: drill a small hole thru the seal face. Drill a second one as vent 180 deg opposite. Use a grease gun with a grease needle to lube the bearing. Re-close holes with hot-glue gun.
Bearings, even the troublesome rear wheel bearings, would last indefinitely. After I started using this method I do not recall ever having to change a wheel bearing on any of my bikes. Never. (They are a real pain to replace.)
Maybe you could adapt this method to your alternator as long as the bearing is still good? Just a thought...Haya.... View attachment 289453
 
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