For $1000 if you looked hard enough you could find a 3SGTE Turbo and then maybe another $400-600 for a Non working MR2. Im doing the swap, and I tell ya 150hp gain is alot better then 20
An interesting idea . . .
Well, some of you know that I am looking to buy a MkI MR2. My friend mentioned something interesting that one of the guys he works with told him. Normally, the 4A-GE that is in the MR2 is 16-valve DOHC with about 115hp. However, the 8th-gen Corollas (1995) have a 20-valve DOHC 4A-GE with 165hp.
This guy says that he can get one of these engines for about a grand, so my friend suggests that I find a non-running MR2 with a nice body, AC, good interior, etc. for cheap, then we simply swap in the engine (yes, I know engine-swapping isn’t easy, but you get the idea). It should be less expensive than trying to get an 88 or 89 SC, with about the same amount of horsepower.
What do you guys think of this?
This guy says that he can get one of these engines for about a grand, so my friend suggests that I find a non-running MR2 with a nice body, AC, good interior, etc. for cheap, then we simply swap in the engine (yes, I know engine-swapping isn’t easy, but you get the idea). It should be less expensive than trying to get an 88 or 89 SC, with about the same amount of horsepower.
What do you guys think of this?
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Um, 165hp minus 115hp is 50hp, not 20. Still, I like your idea. 220hp does sound better than 165hp.
However, do the 3S-GTE engines normally go for $1k? Or are they normally more, and are they rare?
My friend says that the guy he works with can get one of the 20-valve 4A-GEs any day of the week. Then I thought if we wanted to we could turbocharge that.
However, do the 3S-GTE engines normally go for $1k? Or are they normally more, and are they rare?
My friend says that the guy he works with can get one of the 20-valve 4A-GEs any day of the week. Then I thought if we wanted to we could turbocharge that.
...
interesting, I wonder why the engine produces more horsepower even though it is the same engine... I guess the more valves the merrier eh? Never the less, The swap would be your better option as it will be 200 hp. However Brian Owens has the motor, tranny, ecu, and all the goodies to go along with the motor, as to where u don't. So I dunno, A rear clip is 2300 - 3500.00 respectively.. so if u figure 4 - 5.00.00 for a non- running 85 -88 car, and 2300.00 for a rear clip, there ya go... I think they even make a stroker motor for the 2.0 at Chico race works for a great price.. this is MHO.,
interesting, I wonder why the engine produces more horsepower even though it is the same engine... I guess the more valves the merrier eh? Never the less, The swap would be your better option as it will be 200 hp. However Brian Owens has the motor, tranny, ecu, and all the goodies to go along with the motor, as to where u don't. So I dunno, A rear clip is 2300 - 3500.00 respectively.. so if u figure 4 - 5.00.00 for a non- running 85 -88 car, and 2300.00 for a rear clip, there ya go... I think they even make a stroker motor for the 2.0 at Chico race works for a great price.. this is MHO.,
3sgte = 2k + if it is worth anything i have never really seen any under that, for the whole engine anyway
Well, all this sounds great, but I'm trying to make the MR2 to at least run for under 3 grand. I realize I will probably end up putting more money into for suspension, brakes, tires, etc. (I plan on using the MR2 for racing eventually). So if the cost of the non-running MR2 plus the engine and the parts needed to get it to run is less than $3000, then I will consider it a success. If it's even less than that, then I can spend more to get it to run better.
If I need to use a 4A-GE instead of a 3S-GTE, I will still be happy because it will still run just as well as a supercharged MkI anyway.
Oh, and also I'm not sure exactly what a rear clip is. Please explain it to me.
If I need to use a 4A-GE instead of a 3S-GTE, I will still be happy because it will still run just as well as a supercharged MkI anyway.
Oh, and also I'm not sure exactly what a rear clip is. Please explain it to me.
a rear clip is basically the rear half of the car. they cut off the front part and give you the rest. Gotta be real carefull on where you get them. make sure they exsplicitly state that the engine, tranny, piping etc ALL of the stuff you need is included. and that the ecu harness is un-cut. eBay is full of "cheaper" or same priced ones that dont include some of the things you will need.
Hmm, this sounds like how they make the SilEighty in Japan.
Is getting a rear-clip really that feasible, or is it easier to do it some other way?
Is getting a rear-clip really that feasible, or is it easier to do it some other way?
I bought my 3SGTE Turbo, Tranny, ECU, and Wiring Harness for $640 
. It pays to have a buddy who owns a MR2 and swaps to a 3rd Gen.
but Im still paying almost $1700 total to do the swap.
. It pays to have a buddy who owns a MR2 and swaps to a 3rd Gen.but Im still paying almost $1700 total to do the swap.
moogleX said:a rear clip is basically the rear half of the car. they cut off the front part and give you the rest. Gotta be real carefull on where you get them. make sure they exsplicitly state that the engine, tranny, piping etc ALL of the stuff you need is included. and that the ecu harness is un-cut. eBay is full of "cheaper" or same priced ones that dont include some of the things you will need.
yeah it's quicker to just get the rear clip. You'll waste a lot of time finding all the miscellaneous parts if you have to get them individually.
Brian you got lucky. Odds are you will not find a 3sgte with all the parts for under 1500. And even 1500 is cheap for a good 3sgte with all the parts needed for the swap.
ok...... here's a few things that people seem to be overlooking....
first off, the 20V's are japanese engines only.... being in florida you might have problems with emissions/visual (if you have those there)....
the silvertop's were 'rated' for 165, but actually put down more like 120whp..... ~20whp gain over the stock 16V.....
the blacktops were 'rated' for 170, but actually put down more like 140whp.....
although these engines are '4age's.... it's based off of the block..... the head on the 4age was redesigned in 1990 to the smallport design (and lack of t-vis) and gained over a point in compression (10.3:1)... then in 1992 to the silvertop 20V.... they added a 3rd valve to the intake side, got rid of the intake manifold (went with 40MM itb's), and added .2 points in compression
the blacktop had 45mm itb's, another 1/2 point in compression (totalling to 11.0:1), and had lighter internals....
secondly... the aw11's are great for auto-x, and usually not the best cars (IMO) for drag racing.... having more than ~200whp in an aw11 makes them not so great auto-x cars anymore (local long-time auto-x'er has said his car seems to have too much hp with 230whp in his 4agte).... also, the 3sgte is significantly heavier, making it a less nimble car.....
first off, the 20V's are japanese engines only.... being in florida you might have problems with emissions/visual (if you have those there)....
the silvertop's were 'rated' for 165, but actually put down more like 120whp..... ~20whp gain over the stock 16V.....
the blacktops were 'rated' for 170, but actually put down more like 140whp.....
although these engines are '4age's.... it's based off of the block..... the head on the 4age was redesigned in 1990 to the smallport design (and lack of t-vis) and gained over a point in compression (10.3:1)... then in 1992 to the silvertop 20V.... they added a 3rd valve to the intake side, got rid of the intake manifold (went with 40MM itb's), and added .2 points in compression
the blacktop had 45mm itb's, another 1/2 point in compression (totalling to 11.0:1), and had lighter internals....
secondly... the aw11's are great for auto-x, and usually not the best cars (IMO) for drag racing.... having more than ~200whp in an aw11 makes them not so great auto-x cars anymore (local long-time auto-x'er has said his car seems to have too much hp with 230whp in his 4agte).... also, the 3sgte is significantly heavier, making it a less nimble car.....
I've raced a MKI with a 20-valve when I was in Jekyl (my 2.2 non-turbo MKII) and I was quite impressed with the car. We were dead even on the straights.
20v is a defintately the way you should go.
its mathematically proven that more smaller valves have a larger curtain area
over another head w/ less but larger valves...
more flow more potential for power.
its mathematically proven that more smaller valves have a larger curtain area
over another head w/ less but larger valves...
more flow more potential for power.
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
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