[masintenn]

So, like many others have experienced, the fuel filter inlet was seized and I stripped the flare nut. :facepalm:

I was using a brand new 14mm flare nut wrench and oddly enough it loosened several turns before seizing and stripping. Of course, once this happened I couldn't tighten it so I was committed to the repair.

I cut the line just below the flare nut and initially was going to double flare the old line or use a union to patch it. However, I was able to get the preformed line from the local dealership for only $60, so I'm going to undertake replacement of the whole line.

Any pointers? I haven't found any threads where anyone has attempted this and honestly haven't even been underneath the car to see how possible this will be! Worst case scenario, I have a new $60 OEM line to use in patching!!!! I'm new to Toyota's but have been garage wrenching for 20 years.

 

[LE PEW]

I just went through this same fiasco with the brake lines on my truck.
Your best bet is to find the other end of the line you will be replacing and begin to soak it with your favorite penetrating fluid. Spraying it often it and letting it soak longer will work in your favor.
Because my line wrenches stripped a couple of the nuts I had to remove them with vise grips, which is not so bad because you have a prebent line to replace it.
Take extra care to hold the other end of the fuel line securely while loosening and tightening, otherwise you'll twist or kink it further down towards the fuel tank. Then it will be anothe trip to the dealer for the line that one mates to .....

Good luck. :thumbsup:

 

[masintenn]

The pre-bent OEM line from Toyota was not the correct line. The bends were no where near accurate so I ended up using a 5/16 union and patched the line. I'll finish up tonight and post an update. Fingers crossed!

 

[LE PEW]

The pre-bent OEM line from Toyota was not the correct line. The bends were no where near accurate so I ended up using a 5/16 union and patched the line. I'll finish up tonight and post an update. Fingers crossed!

Flared union right, not compression union I'm hoping.

 

[masintenn]

Go ahead and admonish me, but I used a compression union. The problem with flaring is that it would be nearly impossible to flare the line while it's on the car and I don't want to mess it up anymore. I've also used compression fittings on fuel lines on a 96 Tahoe (60 psi) and they've lasted for years without any leaks.

 

[LE PEW]

Go ahead and admonish me,.

Well since you requested it .... 40 LASHES WITH A RAGGED SERPENTINE BELT!!!! Unless of course you enjoy that kind of thing. :lol:

I'm not trying to be too judgmental, just concerned for your safety and well being is all. Truth be told I've seen people use compression fittings on brake lines and operate that way for many trouble free years like you.

I totally understand that we sometimes have to make compromises, for whatever reasons.

 

[masintenn]

I just don't think I can put a good double flare on the existing line without a means of holding the flare block. At least I'm not patching it with a piece of hose and clamps! I wish I had never tried to replace the filter! It's turned into a real PITA.

 

[CrystalMethod]

I just don't think I can put a good double flare on the existing line without a means of holding the flare block. At least I'm not patching it with a piece of hose and clamps! I wish I had never tried to replace the filter! It's turned into a real PITA.

I've had to do it on Tercel, after my service adviser up sold a fuel filter change on a 10 year old Tercel that had never had it's fuel filter changed. :facepalm: Even using the specialized Toyota tool (can't remember the part number). The fitting was seized to the line. So, even though it was turning, all I was doing was twisting the line. I couldn't see that the line was twisting, because the filter was in the way. After a few turns it snapped. Took me 2 1/2 hours to flare a fitting onto the line. Because it was sold as a standard service replacement. The book time on it was 18 mins.

It "can" be done. But, I'll never attempt it again. Instead, I'll cut the line underneath the car just before it starts to curve upwards along the firewall (where there's room to work), and put in a flared patch piece.

 

[masintenn]

I had the air box out so clearance was as good as possible. Its running and no leaks so far. Gotta replace several hardened vacuum lines then test drive.

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