[fjguercio]

0W-20, period. If you're going to keep it a long time, 5k oil change intervals.

I agree what the Mfg recommends for weight....
Then look in owners manual if you have a very cold or very hot climate for change in weight
For the toyotas I would use the Mobil 1 or the Valvoline Full Synthetic.... my stock cost was $20/5qt container and is mostly Mobil 1. Stick to same brand.... Search for good oil filter, ck your local dealer on CASE of oil filter for price and online, they have good filter per Youtube CarCareNut a master toyota mech giving free advise. The cost of dyno vs synthetic has gotten much closer... on expensive car kinda no brainer. I would never go 10k oil change.

New Car change oil & filter at 200 miles of EASY driving. Change again at 1k miles. Then do the 4-5K miles or 6mo in time max. Give your new car a gentle break in. Same for tires and brakes on new car or when you change them. No hard stops, starts, or aggressive driving.

If dusty, mountains, trailer tow these are severe service issues.... read about in owners manual.... yes read the owners manual. Going cross country trip, change oil before you go travel at 80mph for 100 hrs, and change when you get back.

 

[carbuff2]

+++++++

If you were used to using older, heavier weights, thinking 'thicker is better' (no longer true) you will probably rest easier with an oil that is made for wear extra protection.

If a 5W or 0W weight is recommended but you want wear resistance for timing chains etc, an oil like Pennzoil Ultra Platinum will help you sleep soundly. It is thin enough for oil-fed variable valve systems to work seamlessly, yet the robust additive package will protect.

I look for oils meeting the Ford spec WSS-M2C946-xx or xx945xx, they had issues with stretching timing chains and this spec of oil fixed that.

 

[rico Ammons]

We just purchased a '22 Toyota Highlander FWD w/V6. I've been searching & reading up on oil recommendations. My previous experience is mostly conventional oil & flat tappet camshafts. I was surprised to see thin 0W-20 oil recommended. I've been running Valvoline VR1 20W-50 & Delo 400 with Fleetguard/Wix/Napa Gold filters in my previous vehicles. Just noticed that Wix filters are manufactured in China now.

Should I stay with Valvoline brand? I see many Highlander owners discussing the use of 5W-30. We keep our vehicles for a long time. I'm interested in the best engine wear protection available. I'm located at 5K elevation with temperatures ranging from down into the teens & up into the 100+ range. Dry & dusty environment.

Seeking advice/recommendations on brand/type of oil, viscosity, high quality filters & service intervals.

Thank you.

Toyota Synthetic Oil.......That's what they recommend and it was designed for your engine.

 

[98CamryLE]

Use what Toyota recommends and change it regularly and you should be just fine. Toyota calls for changing the oil on a modern Highlander every 10,000 miles... which is pushing it in my opinion. I plan on changing mine every 5,000 miles.

0W-20 Full Synthetic, changed every 5,000 miles is my plan. As for brand, I always used Mobile 1 0W-20 with my last Toyota (also what Toyota recommended) and the car/engine ran fine for fourteen years and 180,000 miles.

Using the right oil and changing it regularly are likely more important than the particular brand. If you change it every 5,000 miles... the brand probably won't matter much as long as you avoid the no-name brands. Heck- even those might be fine if you change your oil every 5,000 miles.

Oil changes are pretty cheap- and easy to do yourself. Doing them every 5,000 miles is cheap insurance.

 

[got-rice]

 

[toyzoo]

2015 Highlander from New England area with 220.000 miles. Changed oil every 7500 miles with 0-20 Mobil 1. Still running strong.

 

[Old Mechanic]

The oil debate will go on forever. I was old school 3 in 10k oil changes Castrol GTX 20W50, going back to 1966. Ever try synthetic in an original Flathead 37 Ford. It seeped past the distributor wick seal (piece of rope) and got on the points and left my arse walking. Dist ran off the nose of the camshaft which was driven off the steel crank gear to a "phenolic" (plastic) gear on the camshaft. That Flathead had no rear main seal, a disc slinger and a channel guided it back into the crankcase.
Now I run full syn 5 W30 Kirkland (Costco=Warren) change at 7500 or when it needs a quart (not yet).
Modern oil additive packages are light years ahead of the old dino fuels and those additives allow for much lower viscosities with much improved heat dissipation and flow rates several times higher than the old stuff especially when cold. Both of my engines are gradually cleaning up the existing slight sludge accumulation the both had when I bought them.
Run that old stuff in your new engine and watch it disintegrate. Want to really destroy it run some straight nondetergent 30 weight. Lawnmower stuff, but Briggs engines are still splash lubed at least the old designs.
I read about a kid who was watching the Mercedes cars racing before WW2 when they absolutely dominated the sport.
He stole a quart of oil from the pits and peeled the label off it and it was Pennzoil.