[tmauldin]

Hi, i have the fuel rail from 5sfe removed and am trying to remove fuel pressure regulator and fuel pressure damper but the nuts and bolts are stuck.

Any suggestions besides bolting the fuel rail to a 2x6 and then putting the 2x6 In a vice?

 

[Strega315]

LISLE 68210 IPR SOCKET:

 

[new echo owner]

Are you planing on saving the fuel rail? You can try using an adjustable wrench that will fit over the fuel rail to hold it in place. Or a pair of this:

480 20-inch BigAzz® Straight Jaw Tongue & Groove Pliers - Channellock, Inc.

CHANNELLOCK® 480 BIGAZZ® Straight Jaw Tongue & Groove Pliers didn't get their name by accident.

channellock.com

 

[norm356]

I did manage to bend a fuel rail first time trying to remove a stuck regulator (the rails are just aluminum extrusions). After that I learned to make sure it is very well clamped so that the force I put in to undo the stuck part won't be able to bend/twist the rail. This may require completely removing it from the vehicle first.

Got a good, unbent rail from a pick and pull to replace my bent one.

 

[1990Toyota]

you can try bolting the rail back in and removing the parts.. the leverage is key...

If you don;t or cantt reach the parts with it back in the engine, then your idea seems ok... just watch and make sure you dont damage the rail

 

[tmauldin]

Strega- Not sure that will work without mods.

No local pick n pull has a 2.2 3rd gen fuel rail.

I still have the intake manifold bolted to the cylinder head so there's not enough room to work on fuel rail if I bolted it back in

. I'm afraid I will damage the rail. I'm using 2 bolts that are 1/4 inch x 3 inch long galvanized, I should have used a slightly bigger bolt since the holes in rail is bigger than 1/4 but figured it might be ok if I use a 1/4 flat washer under the bolt head and torque down to the same value as you would when torqueing down the rail in car. I'm using several 1/4 flat washers between the rail and 2 x6 ( I think one side has a 10.95 mm space to fill and the other side has a 11.25 mm space to fill) ( guess the different spaces means the rail is bent slightly). Then using a nut on under side of 2 x6 without a washer .

The problem is I can't find someone that has a vice

 

[1990Toyota]

Attach it to a bigger piece of wood ad weigh the wood down under something say, the car itself.

 

[tmauldin]

How did you know my 2x6 is only 22 inches? thought about that but not a bigger piece of wood. I was going to try mom standing on it and if that didn't work parking one wheel on it , but I figured the rail would have to be removed and flipped if parking on it. Guess the bolts need to be shorter as in 1/4 x 2.5 inches .

So you think one wheel will be enough?

Cheapest way for one wheel would be
2x6 parallel x 31.5 inches ( one inch error + tire width (assume biggest stock 20 on truck)+ two inch error ( match other error and toe error) + 15.5 inches (backwards fuel rail mount error 1 space 9 mount 5.5 return fuel hose pipe and hold back delivery fuel hose)

or a 2x10 perpendicular x 25.5 inches( same errors as above and add 6 inch convenience angle)

So for one wheel
-2x6 x 31.5 inches parallel mount or 2x10 x 25.5 inches perpendicular mount
-Two 1/4 x 2.5 inch bolts

• twenty four 1/4 flat washers ( put 2 under each bolt head on top of fuel rail and put 9 on each bolt under fail rail on top of 2x to fill two gaps that are 11.25 mm in size) (Two 3/4 inch x .45 - .5 inch deep counterbores with one 1/4 washer each )
• two 1/4 nuts (one in each counterbore)

Torque spec is same as op manual spec for fuel rail to cylinder head.
There is a .010 inch space between each fuel injector port and 2x6

 

[1990Toyota]

How did you know my 2x6 is only 22 inches? thought about that but not a bigger piece of wood. I was going to try mom standing on it and if that didn't work parking one wheel on it , but I figured the rail would have to be removed and flipped if parking on it. Guess the bolts need to be shorter as in 1/4 x 2.5 inches .

So you think one wheel will be enough?

Cheapest way for one wheel would be
2x6 parallel x 31.5 inches ( one inch error + tire width (assume biggest stock 20 on truck)+ two inch error ( match other error and toe error) + 15.5 inches (backwards fuel rail mount error 1 space 9 mount 5.5 return fuel hose pipe and hold back delivery fuel hose)

or a 2x10 perpendicular x 25.5 inches( same errors as above and add 6 inch convenience angle)

So for one wheel
2x6 x 31.5 inches parallel mount or 2x10 x 25.5 inches perpendicular mount
Two 1/4 x 2.5 inch bolts
Several 1/4 flat washers ( enough to put one under each bolt head on top of fuel rail and the rest under the bottom of fuel rail on top of 2x to fill two gaps that are 11.25 mm in size
Two 5/8 or 3/4 inch x half inch deep counterbores with one 1/4 nut each

if the weight of a car isnt enough... then that thing is seized on there! You'll end up twisting the rail before getting it off if that's the case!


Ive done this method with other parts... I attach it to wood and then lower a car on the wood to keep te wood in place.


ive used other methods like using a floor jack and standing on it too... that's at least 100 pounds just with the jack itself. Just enough leverage t break the parts free...

 

[tmauldin]

Well I ended up getting by with the 2x6 22 inches long and standing on it myself( didn't even have to torque with a torque wrench , just used an open end wrench on one end and a socket /ratchet on other end and stop as soon as possible but I bet 15 or 20 ft lbs would be plenty)

 

[1990Toyota]

Its really just the leverage / angle you can get on "medium" torque items like these.... unless its seized on lol

 

[tmauldin]

Had to use a deadblow and 10 inch adjustable wrench on the damper. Now on to a stuck fuel filter line nut

 

[1990Toyota]

Had to use a deadblow and 10 inch adjustable wrench on the damper. Now on to a stuck fuel filter line nut

then its "just short of seized" lol