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Just thinking ahead. Always did my other vehicles around 30,000 miles. No way I buy that "lifetime" fluid business.
 

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I have the older 6-speed transmission and I’m planning to change the transmission oil at around 50k (not just drain and refill). It’s at 29k right now. From what I’ve researched, the process should be about the same for the 8-speed. You can check the fluid temperature through an OBDC scanner tool, infrared thermometer, and or a food thermometer.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the video but that's for the 6 speed. The 8 speed is a different deal. There is no pan.
 

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Just thinking ahead. Always did my other vehicles around 30,000 miles. No way I buy that "lifetime" fluid business.
Search here not working for me, but info on your Q should be in archives. Could be as mention or more, so google "toytota 8 spd transmission drain/fill" or similar wording. Pro/con info is there.

btw...8 spd has a pan...its on the side (vertical)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I've searched a lot but cannot find any You-Tubes or anything else on doing the 8 speed.
 

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Don't be like the guy who posted on here , had HL serviced at independent shop and someone left the fill cap off, either that shop or maybe himself while messing with his own vehicle (most likely,but not admitted to) and in very short order transmission failed and transmission had to be replaced at dealership ,how ironic.If the transmission is sealed what is going to get in there to break it down at 30K miles? Once it is opened up the risk of contamination is there, so to many changes increases the risk of this without really doing much else.
 

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Don't be like the guy who posted on here , had HL serviced at independent shop and someone left the fill cap off, either that shop or maybe himself while messing with his own vehicle (most likely,but not admitted to) and in very short order transmission failed and transmission had to be replaced at dealership ,how ironic.If the transmission is sealed what is going to get in there to break it down at 30K miles? Once it is opened up the risk of contamination is there, so to many changes increases the risk of this without really doing much else.
I think the risk of contaminant is also from within the transmission itself.
 

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I think the risk of contaminant is also from within the transmission itself.
You mean metal particles?Those shouldn't be circulating in the transmission at 30K miles unless there was something wrong out of the factory.Outside contamination during the change is probably a greater risk together with overfilling etc. I guess it has become like surgery, necessary at times but not without risk, so not something that should be performed more than really needed.
Good information here, wikipedia, but good info all the same.https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Automatic_Transmission_Fluid
 

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You mean metal particles?Those shouldn't be circulating in the transmission at 30K miles unless there was something wrong out of the factory.Outside contamination during the change is probably a greater risk together with overfilling etc. I guess it has become like surgery, necessary at times but not without risk, so not something that should be performed more than really needed.
Good information here, wikipedia, but good info all the same.https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Automatic_Transmission_Fluid
I totally agree that at 30k it's expect that the transmission and filter should be working. It's the filter element that will break down eventually and allow the metal shavings to pass through and circulate through the transmission. I believe standard recommendation for the filter is about 30k unless Toyota is using something special. I think that will cause more wear and tear than outside contaminants unless you're dumping a lot of metal shavings into transmission during the refilling process. The dip stick has been removed from the fluid checking process but it's not rocket science. However you want to measure the fluid temperature, approximately from 104f-113f range, to get the extra fluid out.

Obviously this is the Internet and I can totally be wrong. :)
 

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Toyota has been using the WS tranny fluid for over 10 years now and their recommendation was it's a life-time fluid. And for the most part it is because 90% of new vehicle buyers don't keep their vehicle past 150k miles. But if you plan on keeping the vehicle longer...then I would change fluid at least every 50k miles. These transmissions run hot....Heat is not good for tranny fluid. Are you trying to get the most out of the transmission fluid or the transmission?
 

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According to analysis posters have had done in their transmission fluid at Bob is the Oil Guy (.com), WS fluid isn't very good. No way I would say it is "lifetime." There has to be a reasonable way to change it. Perhaps the cooler lines is the only way?
 

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Is there any Toyota dealer tech on this forum? Because for heavy duty use the manufacturer suggested 60k transmission fluid change.

which means there has to be a way to do it.
 

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Toyota has been using the WS tranny fluid for over 10 years now
My 05 Tundra came with it. It's all I've used. No problems with it at all. Others on TundraSolutions that tried some of that "better ATF" had issues. Live and learn.

BITOG sucks! Bunch of arm chair chemical engineers over there that cut and paste other peoples bullshit found via google.
 

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At one time cars and trucks needed regular chassis lubrication. Toyota was still using chassis lubrication in 1990s, all that stopped and the sky didn't fall and in fact these vehicles last longer than ever. Correct me if I am mistaken but 20 yr old vehicles seem more common now than they were in say the 1980s, vehicles are better quality, maybe harder to repair, but certainly better in most other respects.
 

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Correct me if I am mistaken but 20 yr old vehicles seem more common now than they were in say the 1980s, vehicles are better quality, maybe harder to repair, but certainly better in most other respects.
A lot of the problem with vehicles back til the mid 80's was RUST. Mechanically they were good. But I'll give the edge to today's vehicles. The biggest factor for cars not lasting long from that era was rust. Especially with Asian vehicles.

We've owned several vehicles since the mid 80's...and they lasted a long long time. All of them well over 300k miles. Two over 400k miles and one approaching 500k miles. My wife's 96 Accord was the most reliable vehicle we've ever owned. First repair cost me $4 (broken radio knob) at 220k miles. Just normal maintenance til then.
 
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