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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all - after reading sweenyp's how-to, I have started my own retrofit. I am just in the initial phase and will take a few weeks to complete, time and weather permitting. Updates may be slow ;)

I bought a set of Lumen clear headlights from CarID as I can't have the main lights out of commission as this is my wife's daily.
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I also got a set of DDM Tuning bi-xenon retrofit mini H1 projectors with a 35W 4300K bulbs and ballasts from Amazon. Hope heat won't be an issue for the reflector housing.
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Baked one light at 200 for 10 minutes and pried lens off of it.
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Projector installed:
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Shroud on (need to screw this to the projector housing). @todo: put the cover back on and bake it
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More stuff to do:
  • Finish the second one
  • Check alignment and aim
  • Remove old lights
  • Install new lights
  • Wiring (high-beam and possible relay for the ballasts)
  • Defeat DRL's
  • I also get a set of Lumen LED fogs which I need to install
 

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2018 Highlander Hybrid
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Following. This is interesting


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Highlander Limited
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I've been doing retrofits for about ten years so I'll mention a couple of things. First is to install the headlights in the car without the lens and park on a level surface with a vertical surface in front of you. Doing this will allow you to align the projectors laterally and horizontally. Nothing more annoying than having 2 smooth cutoff lines that don't line up...ask me how I know LOL. My second suggestion is to make sure you use a proper relay harness and quality bulbs and ballasts. I've gotten cheap kits off eBay and Amazon, but they are always crap. I have learned that a good quality hid is the only way to go. I get all my stuff now from The Retrofit Source. Their stuff isn't cheap, but their warranty is great and the customer service never lets me down. I would also advise you to keep spare parts on hand. Sucks being on a trip and a bulb or ballast goes out. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Picked up the following harness which has a relay / fuse and will connect to the ballasts. I will need to tap into the main low-beam harness to drive the relay.

I hear you on testing / alignment and quality of bulbs. I will prep all the stuff before-hand and only do the install once the weather warms up a bit.

I also need to pick up some appropriate screws - the supplied shrouds screw into the projector housing with 4 screws, but kit didn't have the screws :censored:

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Another advice I would add is to use new butyl sealant to seal back the headlights to prevent condensation. Many folks recommend Nissan butyl sealant (Part No. B6553-89915), but I had success with Morimoto Retrorubber butyl glue from The Retrofit Source since they are local to me. Good luck with the retrofit, it's day and night compare the projectors to factory halogens!

Andy
 

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2018 Highlander Hybrid
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I have morimoto xb35 5000k bulbs from an old hid kit I got from retrofit source you can have if you want. I don’t plan to use them as I’m running LED


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Picked up the following harness which has a relay / fuse and will connect to the ballasts. I will need to tap into the main low-beam harness to drive the relay.

I hear you on testing / alignment and quality of bulbs. I will prep all the stuff before-hand and only do the install once the weather warms up a bit.

I also need to pick up some appropriate screws - the supplied shrouds screw into the projector housing with 4 screws, but kit didn't have the screws :censored:

View attachment 290367
That is not the proper harness for you. You need the one I'm linking. It will allow you to do a complete plug and play and have hi and lo beams. I've used it before and it works great.

 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
That is not the proper harness for you. You need the one I'm linking. It will allow you to do a complete plug and play and have hi and lo beams. I've used it before and it works great.

Thank you - I noticed this while I was reading an article on TRS about Hi/Lo setups. I did get another one which has the proper H4 plug as input, and also separate outputs to power the solenoid when hi-beams are activated and keep power to the lo-beams at all times.

I was trying to bench test the lights as the weather has been very cold, but my power supply probably doesn't provide enough current for the ballasts. I can use it to power up my LED fogs, but not the HID's. It's an outdoor 12v DC transformer for landscape lighting - rated for 120W. Ordered another transformer and will test out the HID's and wiring harness before trying it out on the Highlander.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Lights are all buttoned up; waiting for a 12v power supply to do some bench testing.

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Discussion Starter #10
I was also testing out some LED fog-lights, but the cutoff seems to be horrid. This is supposed to be an LED-specific housing.

Lumen LED fog-lights - you get what you pay for :p:
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Hooked up to a 12v supply. These don't have ballasts or external drivers and can accept a regular 12v fog-light input:
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Cutoff is non-existent with lot's of glare above the lights:
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I was also testing out some LED fog-lights, but the cutoff seems to be horrid. This is supposed to be an LED-specific housing.

Lumen LED fog-lights - you get what you pay for :p:
View attachment 290655

Hooked up to a 12v supply. These don't have ballasts or external drivers and can accept a regular 12v fog-light input:
View attachment 290656

Cutoff is non-existent with lot's of glare above the lights:
View attachment 290657
I have a pair of xb Morimoto led fogs that were on my 2010 Rav4. They have a great cutoff, but don't fit my 2011 Highlander unfortunately.
 

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08 Toyota Camry 2AZ-FE R9K Tuned
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I have a pair of xb Morimoto led fogs that were on my 2010 Rav4. They have a great cutoff, but don't fit my 2011 Highlander unfortunately.
Can't go wrong with Morimoto XB LED's. I've used eBay halogen fog lights, those cracked. I've used eBay iJDMtoy Yellow (Amber) LED fog lights, those scattered light everywhere and cracked. Currently using my Morimoto XB LED's with Yellow Film, they have not broken yet and they are great.
  • Halogen
    • Non-adjustable
    • Really for looks
    • Did these really have any effect at night...?
  • eBay LED
    • Non-adjustable
    • Really for looks
    • "Background lighting"
  • Morimoto XB LED
    • Adjustable
    • Looks great
    • It's a second set of low beam head lights mounted low
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Initial tests show one ballast is DOA. Wondering if I should switch to Morimoto now :cautious:

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I have Morimoto 55W ballast to run my OSRAM CBB D2S bulbs. No issues so far but I agree on having extra ballasts. Even the Morimoto doesn't last more than a few years. OEM like Matsushita, of course, isn't cheap either so...pick your poison lol
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I’ve ordered a backup set from TRS and should be getting the delivery tomorrow. Will retry the setup in the next few days.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I’ve ordered a backup set from TRS and should be getting the delivery tomorrow. Will retry the setup in the next few days.
So I got the kit from TRS which includes ballasts, H1 bulbs and a harness. Tried out the new bulbs and ballasts with the harness and everything is working well, for now. Have reached out to DDM Tuning for a replacement ballast, but that will take some time as the original kit took almost a month to ship.

At the same time, I have read up on switching DRL's from low beam to an alternate light source. I did consider the option for fogs as DRL, but decided to get a Philips LED DRL kit. So ordered a Hella SPDT relay, Hella connector and Philips LED DRL kit. Kit is shipping from the UK, and takes about two weeks.

I will likely postpone the install till the DRL kit is here and install everything in one shot. Intent is to mount the LED DRL lights at a lower part of the bumper. Alternatively, I could bake the lights open again and mount some halo's to the shroud ... not sure of quality and longevity.

Any suggestions?
 

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Having the halo with the headlight as DRL will be distinct and cool, but what if it breaks down? You'll have to rip apart the assembly and replace, which isn't very user friendly. Isn't there a halo for the fog light assembly? That may be an alternative instead of rewiring up the fog as DRL.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Having the halo with the headlight as DRL will be distinct and cool, but what if it breaks down? You'll have to rip apart the assembly and replace, which isn't very user friendly. Isn't there a halo for the fog light assembly? That may be an alternative instead of rewiring up the fog as DRL.
Exactly why I don't want to go the Halo route. It will be a set of dedicated external LED DRL's.

Goodies from TRS:
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Both lamps - finally - working:
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Hella relay to split DRL signal to another light:
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Philips LED DRL DRL9 kit on order:
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