[TacoMSU]

I'm looking into a full system for my '05 double cab. I plan on building my own box for behind the rear seats to house two 12" Kicker Comp VT 07CVT122s and an amp to power them in the middle. I want to run components in front. I would also like to keep my factory non-JBL head unit if possible. I was thinking the Scosche SLC4 four-channel line output converter would help me add preamp outputs. I was looking at the Rockford Fosgate 3SIXTY, but I'd have to have a $600 Palm device to adjust it. My questions are:

1: Are there any better subs I should use? ($200 or less each)
2: Which amps should I use to power the subs and components? ($?)
3: Which component set should I use? (under $250)
4: Is it possible to use my factory head unit?
5: How many sq. ft. of Raamat or equivalent would I need to cover the roof, floor, all four doors, and back wall of the cab? ($?)
6: How many sq. ft. of ensolite?($?)
7: If I can't keep the stock head unit, what would you recommend? (under $300)

 

[cam2Xrunner]

I'm looking into a full system for my '05 double cab. I plan on building my own box for behind the rear seats to house two 12" Kicker Comp VT 07CVT122s and an amp to power them in the middle. I want to run components in front. I would also like to keep my factory non-JBL head unit if possible. I was thinking the Scosche SLC4 four-channel line output converter would help me add preamp outputs. I was looking at the Rockford Fosgate 3SIXTY, but I'd have to have a $600 Palm device to adjust it. My questions are:

1: Are there any better subs I should use? ($200 or less each)

Are you looking for more of an SPL sub(loudness) or an SQ sub(accuracy)?

2: Which amps should I use to power the subs and components? ($?)

Throw out a budget.

3: Which component set should I use? (under $250)

The TS-C720PRS is the best set under 400 bucks IMO, and they happen to be under 250
You can also pick up a set of used MB Quart QSD-216's for under 300

4: Is it possible to use my factory head unit?

Yes but you will hear a difference with an upgraded head unit...BUT if you want to keep your headunit and get good results, instead of buying a LOC this is what I would do...

http://www.customtacos.com/forum/showthread.php?t=76434

I trust this guy 100%, he will take your headunit and install a set of RCA outputs to it. This will lower the THD%(total harmonic distortion) level from an audible 7% to .05%. A LOC cannot do that.

If you think you can swing it, I'd highly rec. the Pioneer Premier DEH-P880PRS.

But if not, send your headunit to Dave and get a basic Sony or PPI eq.

5: How many sq. ft. of Raamat or equivalent would I need to cover the roof, floor, all four doors, and back wall of the cab? ($?)
6: How many sq. ft. of ensolite?($?)

In the Tacoma's I've done deadening in, I used one roll(62.5 sq ft) to do the front doors completely and the rear access cab doors. I'd guess that a 4 door Tacoma to do all 4 doors, roof, floor, and back wall...3 rolls, 187 sq ft., and while you're at it, install Ensolite to block out the road noise. 10 to 12 yards.

Email Rick and tell him I sent you and you'd like the forum discount.

7: If I can't keep the stock head unit, what would you recommend? (under $300)

DEH-P880PRS, hands down, no doubt.

 

[TacoMSU]

Thanks cam. I like the Kicker Comp VTs because they have a 4 3/8" mounting depth and have a 2 ohm impendence. Bass response is 25-350Hz and 50-400W RMS power handling. I think I'll go with Dave at CT. $40+s/h is a hard deal to beat for .05% THD. I'm thinking I would like to be under $300 for my subwoofer amp and I would like an equal quality/performance amp for the components.

 

[Pb]

I don't care for your choice of subs very much, but it's your choice. Fitting two 12" subs and an amp behind the seat will be pretty tough, unless you make your enclosures crazy small. I was only able to fit a single 12" and my amps behind the seat. (Check my CarDomain for pics.)

If I were you I would go with dual 10"s or a single 12".

 

[lamikela1]

PB is right! Not a lot of room behind the seat for 2-12's. I have to JL 8W3V2's behind mine with a 300/4 and a 250/1. That takes up all the space and the volume needed for those subs. The most I could get in terms of volume with this setup is .378 cu ft per speaker. Unless your 12's can run in this size enclosure your out of luck. I will be trying to post some pictures of my complete install this weekend so stay tuned. PB has some good information on his in some previous posts as well.

 

[mordy]

I would like to step in and say that if you are gonna pony up for completely dynomatting the interior, a aftermarket head unit would be almost a requirement.

For subs i recommend the Infinity 'Perfect' line. Very affordable and awesome clean sound.

Amps? Look at the Polk Momo line. They have a 5 channel to keep it to one amp. Also theres another kicker for the aftermarket HU, many amps have high level input, but, they almost all sound terrible in comparison to a RCA input.

Its hard to recommend separates. As its your own ears that needs to judge what is good. Polk, Boston, Infinity reference are all good.

 

[Pb]

The Infinity Perfect subs are pretty clean, certainly not an SPL sub though. But I doubt you could get them to fit behind your seats, especially the 12.1 sub. They're too deep. To fit the sub enclosure behind your seats the sub can't be much deeper than 5.5" if your sub enclosure material is 3/4" thick.

 

[TacoMSU]

How about two MB Quart PWE-252? They are 10" subs. What amp should I use to power these? They are 400W RMS.

 

[SP Jon M3]

Check out the Image Dynmics subs as well. And I agree with PB, go with 2 10s. You won't have enought enclosure volume for 2 12s.

If you want some ideas you can check out my setup with 2 10s.

http://web.mac.com/jbryan/iWeb/My_2005_Tacoma/Tacoma Sounds.html

 

[TacoMSU]

I like that alot. What's your amp/sub combo? Did you build a full enclosure for the subs, or did you use the back of the cab as the back of your box? What is your mounting depth? How did you build your amp rack?

 

[NorCalTacoma]

You can't go wrong with 2 Elemental Designs 11Kv.2 Subwoofers.

They fit nicely in the back.

Run those 2 subs with a NINe.2x and you will be hitting very clean and hard.

They offer excellent service and discount to TN members.

 

[SP Jon M3]

I like that alot. What's your amp/sub combo? Did you build a full enclosure for the subs, or did you use the back of the cab as the back of your box? What is your mounting depth? How did you build your amp rack?

The subs are Image Dynamic ID 10s, the amps are Helix A2 Comp for the subs and an A4 Comp for the mids/highs. The first picture shows you the enclosure. It is a fibergalss/mdf box. Basically the back of the box (the part that comes in contact with the back wall) is fiberglass, the rest of the box is MDF. This helps with mounting depth and enclosure volume. The amp rack is basically an angle iron at the top that it bolted to the rib attached to the firewall, then the amp attached to that. Same for the bottom except the angle iron is attached to MDF that was extended from the box enclosure.

Also, I'm running ADS mids and highs, but I heard they they are not as good as they used to be. I would also look into the ID mids and highs as well.

Here is a better shot of the amps:

 

[Pb]

How about two MB Quart PWE-252? They are 10" subs. What amp should I use to power these? They are 400W RMS.

Don't worry too much about the wattage numbers. Just pick good subs that aren't deeper than 5.5". I always overpower my subs. IMO, the more power the better. I've put 1k watt amps on 500 watt subs plenty of times, and the subs work perfectly for years.

Go with the ID subs.

Subs come in different ohm loads, usually 8 or 4 ohms. Are you familiar with how to choose which ones you need? It depends on what amp you get. Most average amps are 4 ohm stable when bridged. In this case you would buy two 8 ohm subs. Wire them in parallel. Wiring them in parallel cuts the ohm load in half, which would give you 4 ohms. If you just went with a single sub then you would want to order a 4 ohm sub.

If you have a sub amp that is 2 ohm stable when bridged then you would go with dual 4 ohm subs wired in parallel, which would give you 2 ohms.

Don't confuse 2 ohm stable (stereo), with 2 ohm stable (bridged). If an amp is 2 ohm stable (stereo), then that means it's 4 ohm stable (bridged).

Comprede?

 

[TacoMSU]

Gotcha. I read up on wiring a while back. I've done audio installs on two of my last three cars, but I had a shop pick out the stuff for underneath the back seat on my Chevy, and I didn't have space problems in my 4Runner, I just took up the entire cargo area with four 12" Memphis Monster competition subs and Kicker amps. I just want this one to be perfect. I don't want to get bored with it in a few months and have to shell out more bills to be satisfied.

 

[Pb]

:thumbup:

When it comes down to space issues I pick big amps with small subs, rather than big subs with small amps. The more power the better.

IMO, you can get a lot of bang for the buck if you went with two 10" ID subs and Elemental Designs amp. ED has great forum discounts.

 

[deff808]

Im super duper happy with my EDs, 3 10s!