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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well, every car I owned last 15 years had Auto dimming mirror with Garage opener. I did not want to go for XLE just for that. So decided to install one myself, but not the same one from XLE as that is quite a bit expensive at this time.

I also thought of adding front video to the mirror. So I bought Tundra mirror with video input, compass, Homelink4 and a camera. Finally received all parts I ordered to start the project.

First I removed the overhead console/light assy fishing for any power. No, there is no wiring for mirror there. Since all lights are led, the wires coming in are ultrathin. Also, overhead lights work without turning on power, so that is not a good idea to use. Even if I can find ACC controlled power, the wires are so thin, we might break those trying to tap. So decided to take power from Driver Dash side.

One more caveat I realized is, the Mirror stem is shorter and straighter than original one came with the car. So back of the mirror is touching the ADAS cover behind mirror and not allowing full adjustments. It would be problem for taller people for certain.

So, I got a extension block to extend the base by an inch and it seems to work.

I will update as I make progress over the weekend.
 

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So many questions, but to start, what worked to remove the roof console? It looks like your yellow clips are all intact, so it must have been a fairly controlled process? How did you approach it to start and using what tools (if any)?

The mirror extension block you mention, is that a made-for-this-purpose part or something that happened to work for this application? I am one of the "taller people" so this full range of motion will be important for me.

I was disappointed to see there was no hidden mirror wiring harness tucked up in the roof console cavity, but I will follow this thread to see how you run your wiring and will plan to follow this guide for my own LE soon!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
So many questions, but to start, what worked to remove the roof console? It looks like your yellow clips are all intact, so it must have been a fairly controlled process? How did you approach it to start and using what tools (if any)?

The mirror extension block you mention, is that a made-for-this-purpose part or something that happened to work for this application? I am one of the "taller people" so this full range of motion will be important for me.

I was disappointed to see there was no hidden mirror wiring harness tucked up in the roof console cavity, but I will follow this thread to see how you run your wiring and will plan to follow this guide for my own LE soon!
Attempt to pull with fingers did not work, those clips seems fairly tight.
Finally I found my trim removal levers, and used approx location where the clips are. Was able to feel the metal base where clips goes, and applied force. Once backside came out, tilted little bit and used lever for the front side also. May be because of tilting, front side came relatively easy(compared to rear).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Got a chance to work on Mirror install over the weekend. Though I tested front camera input, not finished with Front camera integration yet as I have to install the button for that and also need to run camera cable from engine compartment to Cabin. I was trying to take the hood release cable path, but that needs removal of front driverside fender liner, but that has 4 non reusable clips. I need to procure those before I run the cable.

As I mentioned above, the stem that came with the Mirror (from Tundra) is shorter and do not allow full adjustment of mirror, so I added this extension base. Advent Gentex Mirror Extension Mount GENMM5 44476134029 | eBay
If you do not need Video Input, then you will find many mirrors for much cheaper price (about $50-60), but make sure pick one with Homelink 4 with auto dimming. Homelink 3 may not work some new garage door openers and may need a translator in between. Without video input, the cable also going to be much thinner unlike mine. Mine had 12 leads and shielded video cable making is somewhat bulky. But there is enough space near overhead console to keep all the excess cable.

I have split the cable into two, one for strictly power the mirror when car turns on, and other with a 3 pin connector with Video input and a trigger to turn on video. That way, if later I don't need video input, I can take out that cable completely.

I wrapped the wire that goes into headliner with cloth tape to keep it from making any noises, also wrapped the connector with foam tape.

I took the power from the Fuse panel above the dead pedal/foot rest. Since this is to power only Mirror and the Camera, I went with just 2 AMP fuse.

I was able to run the cable in headliner, behind A pillar trim, and behind the door seal very easy. Since I went with very slim power cable as power needs are not much, and it made it easy with running the cable. I ran Camera cable which has video signal and trigger once power is run along the same path.

Compass is calibrated with couple of rounds, and works as expected, and it seems retain the memory fine even without constant power. As I mentioned about, the mirror has constant power and ignition power leads. I joined those together and only providing power with ACC/engine on. But I did run +12v and ground. But If someone wants to run only +12v, they can and use the bolt under the overhead console for ground lead.

Once all panels are in place, nothing is visible. Of course, we can see cable coming out of mirror and going under the cover.

Caution: when you disconnect the overhead console completely and turn on the car, Airbag warning will come. But ofcourse when you put it back, everything is good.
 

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Got a chance to work on Mirror install over the weekend. Though I tested front camera input, not finished with Front camera integration yet as I have to install the button for that and also need to run camera cable from engine compartment to Cabin. I was trying to take the hood release cable path, but that needs removal of front driverside fender liner, but that has 4 non reusable clips. I need to procure those before I run the cable.

As I mentioned above, the stem that came with the Mirror (from Tundra) is shorter and do not allow full adjustment of mirror, so I added this extension base. Advent Gentex Mirror Extension Mount GENMM5 44476134029 | eBay
If you do not need Video Input, then you will find many mirrors for much cheaper price (about $50-60), but make sure pick one with Homelink 4 with auto dimming. Homelink 3 may not work some new garage door openers and may need a translator in between. Without video input, the cable also going to be much thinner unlike mine. Mine had 12 leads and shielded video cable making is somewhat bulky. But there is enough space near overhead console to keep all the excess cable.

I have split the cable into two, one for strictly power the mirror when car turns on, and other with a 3 pin connector with Video input and a trigger to turn on video. That way, if later I don't need video input, I can take out that cable completely.

I wrapped the wire that goes into headliner with cloth tape to keep it from making any noises, also wrapped the connector with foam tape.

I took the power from the Fuse panel above the dead pedal/foot rest. Since this is to power only Mirror and the Camera, I went with just 2 AMP fuse.

I was able to run the cable in headliner, behind A pillar trim, and behind the door seal very easy. Since I went with very slim power cable as power needs are not much, and it made it easy with running the cable. I ran Camera cable which has video signal and trigger once power is run along the same path.

Compass is calibrated with couple of rounds, and works as expected, and it seems retain the memory fine even without constant power. As I mentioned about, the mirror has constant power and ignition power leads. I joined those together and only providing power with ACC/engine on. But I did run +12v and ground. But If someone wants to run only +12v, they can and use the bolt under the overhead console for ground lead.

Once all panels are in place, nothing is visible. Of course, we can see cable coming out of mirror and going under the cover.

Caution: when you disconnect the overhead console completely and turn on the car, Airbag warning will come. But ofcourse when you put it back, everything is good.
I have no aspirations of running a front camera to my mirror, but I am attempting to install an auto-dimming mirror to replace the LE trim mirror, primarily for the homelink buttons. The roof console removal is still a bit scary, but I already purchased four 90467-09245 replacement clips to be sure I could put it back up if I managed to break some/all of them in the removal process. Where I have no experience is running 12V from the fuse box to the roof console area. At the fuse box was there an available spot to use, or did you have to tap an existing ACC/engine-on source? I think there were some details for the mirror pigtail wiring in another thread, but I like your idea to combine leads and not provide constant power to the mirror, so will probably do the same.

I've watched several YouTube installation videos (mostly fusebox to dashcam installs in RAV4s) but they all seem to gloss over this step where they run the wires. You mention running it behind the door seal and A pillar trim. Did you actually remove the A pillar trim and if so, was the airbag an issue? I see where you entered the door trim from the fuse box from your photo, but did you pull the door seal off for better access, or just "tuck it in" as you ran your wire up? It sounds like you started at the mirror location and ran the wire down to the fuse box from there? Sorry for all the questions, but I'm hoping to build a little confidence before I give this a try... Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have no aspirations of running a front camera to my mirror, but I am attempting to install an auto-dimming mirror to replace the LE trim mirror, primarily for the homelink buttons. The roof console removal is still a bit scary, but I already purchased four 90467-09245 replacement clips to be sure I could put it back up if I managed to break some/all of them in the removal process. Where I have no experience is running 12V from the fuse box to the roof console area. At the fuse box was there an available spot to use, or did you have to tap an existing ACC/engine-on source? I think there were some details for the mirror pigtail wiring in another thread, but I like your idea to combine leads and not provide constant power to the mirror, so will probably do the same.

I've watched several YouTube installation videos (mostly fusebox to dashcam installs in RAV4s) but they all seem to gloss over this step where they run the wires. You mention running it behind the door seal and A pillar trim. Did you actually remove the A pillar trim and if so, was the airbag an issue? I see where you entered the door trim from the fuse box from your photo, but did you pull the door seal off for better access, or just "tuck it in" as you ran your wire up? It sounds like you started at the mirror location and ran the wire down to the fuse box from there? Sorry for all the questions, but I'm hoping to build a little confidence before I give this a try... Thank you!
Yes, removing the roof console was nerve racking first time. But 2nd time it was not too bad. Hope you have trim removal tools to make it easy.
Power source: There is a small fuse box is above the dead pedal. In that fuse box on the left row, 3rd from Bottom is ACC controlled 12v source. This only gets power when ignition is on. It is empty fuse slot. Just to make sure your fuse tap taking power from that, but not closing the connecton between 2 terminal (basically in Tap-a-fuse adapter, only top fuse is installed.

More than likely your mirror would have 3 or 4 wires. One is intended to be powered when ignition is on, and other is supposed to always powered on. I joined those wires together under overhead console and only ran Ignition controlled Power and Ground.

Those wires, I ran under headliner, and at the top of "A" pillar I ran it across A pillar into the rubber seal. Rubber seal has lip that is running top to bottom, and I ran this wire under that lip. Please see the picture and red circles to see how it ran. Also fuse box.

Mirror requires very little power, so pick thin flexible 2 core wire for the run. That way the seal would not look bulged out. I will try to take some photos later today and upload. Pushing wire under A pillar is not bad, just put your trim tool in the middle first make enough gap (do not need to remove A pillar trim) to push the wire under across.
 

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I just wanted to give user chinna a big thank you for all your help and answers to my questions. I was a bit over-prepared for this project but it went more smoothly than I expected due in large part to the information provided in this forum and this thread in particular. Pulling down the roof console was daunting, but as chinna noted, think about the positions of the four pins holding it to the roof and apply pressure with each pin in mind. I didn't have a tool at my disposal, but I used an old credit-type card to get under an edge until I could get my finger tips under and then pulled down on both sides of the corner (lined up with where the pin was located, NOT on the tip of the corner as that is a weak point). After the first pin came loose the others were much easier. When reinstalling, be sure to insert the front roof guides above the roof liner before pushing the pins back into place.

I ended up running a two-wire silicone 18 gauge stranded wire from fuse panel to the roof console. This wire is VERY flexible and soft, but also very heat resistant and quiet. I had to fish a stiffer wire across the headliner (see image) and use it to pull the silicone wire across, but as chinna suggested, tucking the wire behind the rubber seal from there made the job much easier than expected and concealed the wire clear down to the fuse box area. I found (and used) both constant 12V power and ACC/Power-On switched 12V power in my two lines and used the bolt under the roof console to anchor a short ground wire to the body. This allowed me to wire the mirror with constant power to the homelink buttons and switched ACC power for the auto-dimming feature (where we live we don't have the same concerns about people breaking into a car outside and using the homelink to gain access to our garage, but I like where your head is at). I don't like that I can't replace the cover for the fuse panel after tapping 12V power from there, but at least it is out of the way.

My mirror wire harness had 7 wires and didn't match a single diagram I could find online, but I did find some diagrams with matching wire colors/stripes and between that and the positions of those wires compared with other diagrams I managed to get thing connected correctly. I did test these wires on the mirror before installing anything, but like many diagrams out there, ground is the center of both the top and bottom five-pin rows, and on mine, the yellow/red wire was constant 12V power and the purple/blue wire was for the switched ACC 12V power. All other wires were trimmed for length and wrapped with electrical and then cloth tape. I also needed to use the mirror extender block chinna noted to get this larger mirror to a more neutral position. They noted it might be tough for someone taller to use the mirror without it, and they were right. This block allows the full range of motion for this larger Gentex mirror (another thanks to chinna).

I opted to install the "4k" fitcamx dashcam while I was doing this project and while it was simple to install, I'm not yet sold on the quality of the video or on the app interface. It is working, and I love the clean OEM look, but if it has any issues, I'll likely install a better quality camera using the power I now have available at the mirror location.

I really appreciate all the information available from this forum and its users. Having a really good idea what to expect, tips from the experiences of others, and photos to help make things more clear gave me assurance that I could do some minor pulling-apart of our new car, add some much needed features, and get it all back together again in around 3 hours (much of that time was testing the mirror wiring). I hope my few additional photos will help someone else in turn!

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Looks nice! (y) I see you have DashCam also there. I am also tempted about the dash cam.

For the power I used 3rd empty fuse slot on the right in your picture. But cover is not fitting over the cable. I am hesitant to cut hole into cover. Did you find a way to put the fuse box cover without making holes in the Fuse panel cover?
I didn't think of a good way to do this yet. I ended up zip-tying my wires and tap pigtails behind the trim panel closer to the door so they remain unseen and out of the way, but the fuse panel itself is currently exposed. I told my wife not to kick her feet around in that area if she can help it. For now, my fuse panel cover is in a box with my original mirror shroud and original rearview mirror. I guess I could return everything to its stock configuration one day if I ever needed to, but this will probably just clutter up my garage for the next 10 years.
 
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