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Lemon Jelly Donut
many things
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882 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
TOYota Died this Friday, on my way to Pismo. Left Santa Barbara (now 129 miles away from home), and some time after that, loss of power, chugging, and when i got ot the side, it died. We got it off the side, pulled the plugs, pulled the intake chamber, and bump cranked it, it spins, but there is a clanking internally. I am thinking either a soun bearing, grenaded rod, or dropped valve. The are no dents or deformations in the oil pan. there was a bit of oil back by the number 5 cylinder (maube bad gasket). the plugs had no odd residue.


So, while I am looking for a donor truck, or aother replacement 3VeeZeE, anyone wanna offer some suggestions, before I get to he tear down?? Vicoor??

Anyone want to start a pool??

I should be sad, butstrangely I am not.

Only real sad part, is I had to ride passenger all friggin weekend, and then drive back the 220 miles in an old Bronco, with a 351 and aftermarket 3speed manual tranny, and rear perma-locker. not fun. But I am thankful, as it belonged to my buddy that went with us, and he happened to be trailering it up, so the Yota got a free rie back home at the price of some gas, and sore hands (death grip keeping the beast between the lines).
 

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YOTA Master
'93 2wd P/U
Joined
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2,434 Posts
Let me get this right...

You had to ride back in a .....F..F..F..F.....Ford because your Toyota q....q...qu...quit?


Naw your joshin me:lol:
 

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YOTA Master
'93 2wd P/U
Joined
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2,434 Posts
Was it making noise before it quit?

If it had terminal bottom end issues, I'd expect that it would have been talking to you.

Do a compression test first.

If that is OK

Check for spark,

If that is OK,

Check for fuel delivery.
 

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Lemon Jelly Donut
many things
Joined
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882 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Naw Vicoor, I really had to drive a Bronco back, playing pinball in the lanes as it was not the stiffest steering, but it only cost me 2 tanks of gas, instead of the Flatbed bill i would've paid.

No, no odd noises what so ever. Driving along, good acceleration, then it lost power, and sounded like a cylinder died. Then it cut as soon as I pushed the clutch in. Had a friend tow-rope me off the 101, and into a gas station. I then pulled the intake chamber, and the valve covers, had oil in the top end, so I doubt it was oil starvation. Cranked it over with the passenger bank plugs out, and it has a clanking sound internally.

i am planning on pulling the 710 pan this weekend, to look underneath it all, and see if I notice anything where it should not be.. But I fear the posibilities:

1) bent valve
2) Spun crank bearing
3) broken connector rod
4) broken rod cap bolts

i am at a loss right now, still recovering from a whole weekend of misery, looking at open dunes, low crowds, and no play time, after 2 months of prep for this trip.

I have spark but will recheck.
I have fuel pressure, evident buy the gyser/spray when I cracked the cold start injector open to remove the intake chamber.
Oil pan has no deformities indicative of a broken connector rod.
There is oil reaching the top end.
That is all I have deduced so far.

i am so lost right now, and a replacement low milage (25k) factory assembled unit is gonna run me $2500+ which I do not have right now :(
I can also get a 65k mile factory assembled unit for $2300+
(both are from a reputeable salvage company, one was pulled from a cab side impact truck, the other I am awaiting the vehicle history).

Why, oh why do 3vze's have to be so much.
And any other replacement options (cough 3.4L, cough diesel maybe) are full of red tape, and lots of down time, as I have bienniel smog here in CA. mandatory test only inspection stations to boot.

Any ideas what to look for to help pinpoint the failure, short of a complete teardown??
 

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Languishing in Virginia
1994 XtraCab 4x4 P/U
Joined
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2,026 Posts
I had a similar thing happen in a 86 Nissan; turned out the head gasket had blown between cylinders, letting compression/expansion gasses travel back & forth between the cylinders. Power gradually went down until it sounded like it was firing on two cylinders (which it WAS). That's my guess...
 

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YOTA Master
'93 2wd P/U
Joined
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2,434 Posts
Like I said before, do a compression test first. This is the first step in diagnosing any running problem even though it is skipped all the time. It can tell you if one or more cylinders are dead. If the compression is not right then you want to do a leak down test. this will pinpoint the compression loss. If the compression is good then it should run if it has spark and fuel and is in time.

Just bending a valve on that engine is ,IMHO, impossible. If it wasn't knocking or making noise when it quit, it's hard to imagine a catastrophic failure.
 

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Banned
'86 Yota & '95 Yota
Joined
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241 Posts
:sosad: Man that is a SAD story, your Toyota broke down and you had to ride in a stupid flippin Bronco.... I woulda rather PUSHED a TOYOTA then RODE in a FORD
 

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Lemon Jelly Donut
many things
Joined
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882 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Wel, Vicoor, at least you have given me some hope of salvaging the 3VeeZeE. I still get a clunk when i crank it with no plugs in. I will see what I can do about a compresion test, but I think first I am gonna remove the oil pan. The current clunking during crank bothers me. Especially since it was not there before it cut out.
 

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Lemon Jelly Donut
many things
Joined
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882 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
went out just now, to double check a few thinks in the dark, timing marks and belt are still aligned

With number one, three and 5 plugs out, I can see the piston up and not up through the rotations (manual rotation of the crank).

Thought I saw something in the number one, like a piece of broken metal maybe, but cannot get to it or a clear view and after a rotation, it disappeared.

The clunk i mentioned, is prevalent at tdc on #1. I can rock it back and forth at that point, and get a hollow clunk.

I know you want me to do a pressure test, but the clunk is more disturbing at the moment. I do not want to crank it and do more damage, yet };>
 
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