i recently replaced my clutch on my 96 paseo, and when i was taking out the passenger side axle(longer one) i bent the seal alittle, i tried bending it back but it wasnt perect, i later noticed that gear oil is slowly dripping out from that side. its hard to find a second gen paseo in the wreckers here but there are tons of first gens and tons of tercels, so would an axle from a tercel fit my car? and does it have to be manual.
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That thing is called CV Constant velocity Joint.
I recently replaced mine, i got them on rockauto.com each was shipped in an individual box 50$ for each or so, so for 100$ u replace both. Also supposed to send em back the old ones for 20$ cash on return, but i dont know where to send em to... they didnt include the instructions how to return old ones... but the SHIPPING was FAST! They arrived in 3 days. So i higly recommend it.
To remove em u u gotta drop out the old ones, by prying em out of the tranny, and before that release the outer part of the CV joint. On my car u take the wheel off, then the HUB wheel nut and then take the 3 screws on the most bottom of the car out that disconnect the hub with the brakes from the arm that pushes on the round joint below the brake caliper.\
That allows u to pull the brake caliper and whole hub to the side, without disconnecting anything major, then the CV simply drops out. U can do this in reverse and stuff, its preaty simple. This can also be done with the WHEEL still attached, but i find it eazier to see if its gone.
The rebuild or new CV's are much better thne the junkyard ones, The rubber BOOT at where it flexes is filled with Grease and properly clamped with a round crimp that holds the boot on. So its very well made, u just POP it in and thats all! Haynes manual says to replace em every 100000 miles my car has 160000 and the boots were gone.
Anyways hope that helps. get new ones, its worth it.
Word of advice, make sure u DONT BANG on it with a hammer, because it has threading on the wheel hub side. I damaged mine made putting the nut on it very HARD. Also Drive the inside part into the transmission, ALL THE WAY. What i did is simply stick it in, and then BANG on the hub side with a hammer through a peice of wood, so the threading doesnt get damaged again. Also MAKE SURE ur CV joints look the same as the ones in the picture, they have different ones, for some reason at least for a tercel.
I recently replaced mine, i got them on rockauto.com each was shipped in an individual box 50$ for each or so, so for 100$ u replace both. Also supposed to send em back the old ones for 20$ cash on return, but i dont know where to send em to... they didnt include the instructions how to return old ones... but the SHIPPING was FAST! They arrived in 3 days. So i higly recommend it.
To remove em u u gotta drop out the old ones, by prying em out of the tranny, and before that release the outer part of the CV joint. On my car u take the wheel off, then the HUB wheel nut and then take the 3 screws on the most bottom of the car out that disconnect the hub with the brakes from the arm that pushes on the round joint below the brake caliper.\
That allows u to pull the brake caliper and whole hub to the side, without disconnecting anything major, then the CV simply drops out. U can do this in reverse and stuff, its preaty simple. This can also be done with the WHEEL still attached, but i find it eazier to see if its gone.
The rebuild or new CV's are much better thne the junkyard ones, The rubber BOOT at where it flexes is filled with Grease and properly clamped with a round crimp that holds the boot on. So its very well made, u just POP it in and thats all! Haynes manual says to replace em every 100000 miles my car has 160000 and the boots were gone.
Anyways hope that helps. get new ones, its worth it.
Word of advice, make sure u DONT BANG on it with a hammer, because it has threading on the wheel hub side. I damaged mine made putting the nut on it very HARD. Also Drive the inside part into the transmission, ALL THE WAY. What i did is simply stick it in, and then BANG on the hub side with a hammer through a peice of wood, so the threading doesnt get damaged again. Also MAKE SURE ur CV joints look the same as the ones in the picture, they have different ones, for some reason at least for a tercel.
I have gotten two sets from rock auto also. They were quality at a good price, and shipping was fast as bkftl mentioned.
sounds like all you need is a seal if you bent the seal then the spring probably popped off. same thing happened on mine when i replaced the axle. after i put it in i drove up the street and back and gear oil was dripping out just like how you say.
Since you said "bent" and replace the axel ,I assume you mean the steel cup on the end of the axel next to the seal. If its just the seal, its easy to replace , just buy a seal puller and seal from the auto parts store.
I had a leaky seal( a 1/2 inch piece was missing ) in my corolla for 5 years, couldnt bring myself to pull tha axel just to replace it. Even though it was a small leak it made a huge mess on the ground and car after 5 years . And the SMELL!!
For the cheap price of the shafts and what they do , If they have high milage and there is any noise , torn boot, replace them.
I had a leaky seal( a 1/2 inch piece was missing ) in my corolla for 5 years, couldnt bring myself to pull tha axel just to replace it. Even though it was a small leak it made a huge mess on the ground and car after 5 years . And the SMELL!!
For the cheap price of the shafts and what they do , If they have high milage and there is any noise , torn boot, replace them.
yeah you can pop the seals out with a flat head but when you put your new seal in you can put your old seal on top of it when your tapping it in so you dont screw your new one up.
i replaced the seal and the axle and i was driving the car for the last week, it is still leaking out slowly, i drove in the seal with a socket as far as it would go, it didnt seem to go in all the way but it wouldnt go any further. the axle is also new, the only thing that i didnt replace is the dust cap that goes on the axle next to the seal(steel cup / ring), it is bent alittle. did i do something the wrong way? does the steel cup have anything to do with it?
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