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· Registered
5,542 Posts
Good finds, my man! These will definitely help some people in the future. I think they should be added to the *** section.

· V8'sRGone
Yoda's See Sig
1,991 Posts
FWIW, those vids riddled throughout TN do alittle searchy. . . .

Here is one of them. . .
Need Help With Axles

And a trusty Copy Paste from that thread. . . . Hopefully the Axle Pop info is helpful to one of you!

For anyone that encounters this thread later in life and intends to do this job in the days ahead:

Start soaking the work area every day with penetrating oil! Specifically the stub axle into the carrier bearing! Its seems they freeze in there!
7 days, 7 sprays and it might help.

On the short axle (w/out carrier bearing), ALWAYS pry on it using TWO Prybars applying equal "popping" force to disengage the internal clip.

Many times, people beat and pry from one side only and it just doesn't come out. Prying from one side, binds the clip forcing more of the clip to FULLY LOCK the axle in place. Use 2 angled prybars behind the axle trunnion (inner CV part), and apply a quick pop to both prybars to pull the axle out straight and the clip will release WAY EASIER than doing it with one prybar!

Hint - gently pulling on the axle will help (I know, you need three hands, so use a foot and two hands!) just be careful not to pull too hard or you will yank the trunion joint right through the rubber boot and its bearings will fall out. << Don't do this! You will hate yourself esp if its new axle install. The outer end near the wheel will not fall apart like this, the inner will!

If anything, grab a small propane torch and heat the bearing holder. Probably 15 minutes with propane! The seal and grease can handle 100 to 160 degrees NP. After that, you should consider replacing the bearing if more heat is needed.

EDIT: Adding this from another post on the same problem:
97 camry 4cyl psgr axle replace HELP

If you have access to an air compressor or feel compelled to rent/borrow one, an air hammer with a blunt tip around the outside of the bearing holder will knock the rust loose.

This things are life savers!

If the link remains active, there is round blunt chisel on the left and an air hammer on the right.

From the hell others have had doing this, figure you'll need a new bearing to press on to your axle after its out. So, plan around your local machine shop or get an axle with the bearing on it already.

If using a new bearing, I'd heat the thing up allot and then smack it to get it out. 15min with propane (back and forth around the carrier) or maybe 8-10 min with oxi-acetylene torch.

IME: I use anti-seize compound on bolts and threads. But using it on press-fit, interference fit things like axles, it causes the bearings to STICK and not go on easily! Use grease or oil for the bearing to the axle. As said above, you can lightly sand the bearing holder and likely use Never Seize, Anti-Seize compound on that area.
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