i was told my compressor needs replaced. was hoping to wait till spring. was told by dealer it will affect my defroster so i guess it won't wait. is this true? also where the heck is the drier and expansion valve? i have an 06 tacoma.
bad ac compressor affects defroster?
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There is some truth to it. Defroster (button press) uses a/c because it was determined the best way to defrost quickly. Old style we used to turn on fan only and put mode/setting to windshield. This is not as effective as using the a/c. For example you can turn on the a/c yourself and put mode to windshield or windshield+foot.
So if you need the a/c then get this done quickly. If not use the alternative methods until you are ready ...
I have toyota cars so not sure of those parts locations, but sure others will chime in. I just happen to go through this so I could give some info.
Extra info:
As for compressor, do some troubleshooting to see if entire compressor or clutch/stator needs replaced. Can you turn the clutch by hand? If you turn on the a/c do you hear clutch engaged and then it tries to spin and stop or is it just frozen? Etc. Use search to find a thread on a/c compressor troubleshooting or check out some youtube videos. Are you getting this under, say any previous warranty work, straight first-time replacement, etc? If not in warranty and all you needed is clutch, its cheaper than the full compressor. Just something to check on. Recently my honda compressor went out and it happened to be the clutch, but compressor was replaced under warranty. So for me I thought "cool I got another new denso compressor" and it didn't cost me. I was prepared to work on it myself if out of warranty.
So if you need the a/c then get this done quickly. If not use the alternative methods until you are ready ...
I have toyota cars so not sure of those parts locations, but sure others will chime in. I just happen to go through this so I could give some info.
Extra info:
As for compressor, do some troubleshooting to see if entire compressor or clutch/stator needs replaced. Can you turn the clutch by hand? If you turn on the a/c do you hear clutch engaged and then it tries to spin and stop or is it just frozen? Etc. Use search to find a thread on a/c compressor troubleshooting or check out some youtube videos. Are you getting this under, say any previous warranty work, straight first-time replacement, etc? If not in warranty and all you needed is clutch, its cheaper than the full compressor. Just something to check on. Recently my honda compressor went out and it happened to be the clutch, but compressor was replaced under warranty. So for me I thought "cool I got another new denso compressor" and it didn't cost me. I was prepared to work on it myself if out of warranty.
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Yes, your AC compressor runs when you turn on your defroster. Helps dry the air, to make the windows clear faster.
As far as locations, it appears the No 1 exp valve is above and left of the fan (above your passenger's feet) under the dash. Nothing called a drier on the sketch.
The cooler evap is more towards the center of the dash.
Condenser is out in front by the radiator, skinny one, think its in front.
As far as locations, it appears the No 1 exp valve is above and left of the fan (above your passenger's feet) under the dash. Nothing called a drier on the sketch.
The cooler evap is more towards the center of the dash.
Condenser is out in front by the radiator, skinny one, think its in front.
thanks for the reply. the toyota dealership told me it was the clutch, but that i wouldn't be able to get just the clutch and recommended i get a compressor. if it's just the clutch, could i skip the drier and expansion valve? also is the delpfi compressor cs20055. a good replacement? about $350 on amazon.
Yes. During my trouble, that is what I found out. A clutch can be replaced in about 45 mins to 1 hr and be done. At most they might check your freon levels and add if needed.
If the compressor is good but clutch is bad, then its just replace clutch and you are not doing anything to the refrig/evac. If any work on the compressor, then system must first be evacuated. Then check or replace any necessary parts like valve, dryer (its a desiccant bag on the side of condenser in tube), etc. Recharge after replacement.
Check on this from an independent mechanic also. It should be a straight forward discussion. Mention that the dealer said clutch went bad and you want to just replace clutch. Gather your info.
If the compressor is good but clutch is bad, then its just replace clutch and you are not doing anything to the refrig/evac. If any work on the compressor, then system must first be evacuated. Then check or replace any necessary parts like valve, dryer (its a desiccant bag on the side of condenser in tube), etc. Recharge after replacement.
Check on this from an independent mechanic also. It should be a straight forward discussion. Mention that the dealer said clutch went bad and you want to just replace clutch. Gather your info.
I think you need to take it to a reputable AC shop for a second opinion. When replacing the compressor, warranty requires expansion valve and dryer replacement, so they had to bill you for that. And yes, defrosting needs the compressor, or having the windshield fog up in the winter time is dangerous.
But what was the reason they thought it was compressor failure? And not for example, low refrigerant level? 06 is "relatively" new.
I'd look on rockauto and start with Denso reman compressor, which starts around $334.Or you can try the GPD kit for $205 that includes the dryer and expansion valve. You'll need to haggle with a shop to install, including vacuum and recharge, if one's willing to do that.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...97-2001/360084-rockauto-discount-code-16.html
But first find out what exactly is wrong with the system.
But what was the reason they thought it was compressor failure? And not for example, low refrigerant level? 06 is "relatively" new.
I'd look on rockauto and start with Denso reman compressor, which starts around $334.Or you can try the GPD kit for $205 that includes the dryer and expansion valve. You'll need to haggle with a shop to install, including vacuum and recharge, if one's willing to do that.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...97-2001/360084-rockauto-discount-code-16.html
But first find out what exactly is wrong with the system.
Drier is also referred to as the Accumulator.
Normally a ~2.5" cylinder with inlet and outlet near or on the top. It will be between the evaporator coil and the compressor.
expansion valve fittings
i found the valve but have a question. the lines going into firewall seem to be a push together rather than a threaded fitting. they have plastic shells that keep it from separating under pressure. am i right in supposing that they will pull apart after system is emptied?
i found the valve but have a question. the lines going into firewall seem to be a push together rather than a threaded fitting. they have plastic shells that keep it from separating under pressure. am i right in supposing that they will pull apart after system is emptied?
OP, if the problem you are having is no defrost you need to narrow it down to whether the compressor is working or there is an issue with flaps in the HVAC box.
First a couple of comments.
The compressor clutch is most certainly a replaceable item and it even has a part number. What's good about that is, if it really is the clutch, and the system as not been opened up, the clutch can be replaced without discharging the system. If you want I will post the part number.
The OEM compressor is a Delphi and came from the time of the joint venture between Toy and GM. In fact most of your HVAC is a GM/Delphi creation. One of the aftermarket compressors that is a direct fit is a Denso, and guess what, it is really the OEM Delphi with the Delphi label removed and a new label attached.
There is no separate receiver or dryer on our trucks. They are an integral part of the big aluminum condenser up front and a very expensive part.
The expansion valve is a separate part at the firewall. It is located directly behind the rubber grommet on the firewall. It too can be replaced.
The plastic clamps holding the pipes together at the firewall like to get brittle with heat and age. Probably a good idea to just replace as they are kind of cheesy INMO.
Our systems are not very complicated. Starting at the compressor the refrigerant flows like this:
*Compressor > then hose to big aluminum one piece condenser/receiver/dryer at front of truck >
*From condenser > a small, high pressure aluminum pipe with a low/high pressure cutoff valve welded on >
*Continue small high pressure aluminum pipe from high/low pressure cutoff valve to expansion valve located behind the rubber grommet on the firewall. A micro-screen is locate where the pipe enters the expansion valve. Both the screen and expansion valve are replaceable >
*From the expansion valve flow goes directly to the evaporator located under the dash in the HVAC box >
*From the evaporator (this is what gets cold) the aluminum pipe the changes to the larger diameter aluminum pipe (this is the low pressure pipe) and goes back to the compressor but the aluminum pipe changes to a hose about mid way.
When you push the bi-level button on your controls, or the defrost button both will activate the compressor to run same as if you were choosing AC.
So, if your AC is working, it is likely that the defrost problem is related to flaps in the HVAC box because they simply redirect AC to the defrost vents. The flaps have a known history and one or two TSBs have been issued for foam coming unglued and jamming the redirect. The flaps are moved by small servo motors located on the outside of the HVAC box above your feet and behind the glove box.
The servo motors may also experience problems and not move the flaps. Check for a rythmic clicking noise that does not stop when one of the AC, Bi-level, or Defrost mode buttons is pushed on the control panel.
First a couple of comments.
The compressor clutch is most certainly a replaceable item and it even has a part number. What's good about that is, if it really is the clutch, and the system as not been opened up, the clutch can be replaced without discharging the system. If you want I will post the part number.
The OEM compressor is a Delphi and came from the time of the joint venture between Toy and GM. In fact most of your HVAC is a GM/Delphi creation. One of the aftermarket compressors that is a direct fit is a Denso, and guess what, it is really the OEM Delphi with the Delphi label removed and a new label attached.
There is no separate receiver or dryer on our trucks. They are an integral part of the big aluminum condenser up front and a very expensive part.
The expansion valve is a separate part at the firewall. It is located directly behind the rubber grommet on the firewall. It too can be replaced.
The plastic clamps holding the pipes together at the firewall like to get brittle with heat and age. Probably a good idea to just replace as they are kind of cheesy INMO.
Our systems are not very complicated. Starting at the compressor the refrigerant flows like this:
*Compressor > then hose to big aluminum one piece condenser/receiver/dryer at front of truck >
*From condenser > a small, high pressure aluminum pipe with a low/high pressure cutoff valve welded on >
*Continue small high pressure aluminum pipe from high/low pressure cutoff valve to expansion valve located behind the rubber grommet on the firewall. A micro-screen is locate where the pipe enters the expansion valve. Both the screen and expansion valve are replaceable >
*From the expansion valve flow goes directly to the evaporator located under the dash in the HVAC box >
*From the evaporator (this is what gets cold) the aluminum pipe the changes to the larger diameter aluminum pipe (this is the low pressure pipe) and goes back to the compressor but the aluminum pipe changes to a hose about mid way.
When you push the bi-level button on your controls, or the defrost button both will activate the compressor to run same as if you were choosing AC.
So, if your AC is working, it is likely that the defrost problem is related to flaps in the HVAC box because they simply redirect AC to the defrost vents. The flaps have a known history and one or two TSBs have been issued for foam coming unglued and jamming the redirect. The flaps are moved by small servo motors located on the outside of the HVAC box above your feet and behind the glove box.
The servo motors may also experience problems and not move the flaps. Check for a rythmic clicking noise that does not stop when one of the AC, Bi-level, or Defrost mode buttons is pushed on the control panel.
new drier or replace condenser?
Taco, thanks for the explanation of the ac system. when i took the truck to have the system emptied, the fellow told me he only got 2 oz of freon from the system. he suggested i may have a slow leak. when i removed the compressor, there was no oil in it. replaced the compressor but had to use an old o ring as one of the o rings shipped was too big. 1st concern.
was going to replace the drier but now that there may be a leak, i may just replace the condenser. i think i may be in over my head.
Taco, thanks for the explanation of the ac system. when i took the truck to have the system emptied, the fellow told me he only got 2 oz of freon from the system. he suggested i may have a slow leak. when i removed the compressor, there was no oil in it. replaced the compressor but had to use an old o ring as one of the o rings shipped was too big. 1st concern.
was going to replace the drier but now that there may be a leak, i may just replace the condenser. i think i may be in over my head.
This is sounding more and more like the problem you are having is just a slow leaking system over the past 10 yrs. All automotive systems begin to leak from day one and there is a known average leak rate. With 2 oz. of refrig. remaining on an '06 you are likely in that expected mean. By comparison, the system starts with only approx. Edit: 22.1-22.22 oz. new.
Drier: remember, you have no way if knowing if the drier is bad because it is an integral part of the condenser only. I do not consider the condenser a big deal to replace and it only has two O rings. But don't throw money at the condenser yet but read on. Oh, and speaking of O rings, I am a big fan of the OEM O rings and would never consider putting back a used or improper size ring.
Oil in Compressor: not surprised that you did not find much oil in the compressor. You will find oil throughout the system as it moves with the refrigerant and collects in the various low points when the system runs. If you still have the old compressor measure how much oil was in there if you can.
All the oil in the AC system comes from the compressor at the time of manufacture. No additional oil is added during charging. A new compressor has 150ml (approx. 5.3 oz.) of oil in it. On the assembly line the compressor with its oil it is bolted in, the entire system charged with refrig, and then operated. That 150ml is is distributed to all the internal parts before some makes it back to the compressor where only about 2-3 oz. or so resides. That is why you want to invert the old one and drain it to measure the amount as you would otherwise be adding another 150ml of oil from a new compressor and most of the time you will have to remove oil from the new compressor.
This is important because the oil takes up space in the system that could otherwise be used for refrigerant and excess oil drives the system pressures up often way too high That's a no-no.
The biggest thing you need to do at this point is make sure the system is not open, and remains open for only short periods during work, because moisture in the air enters the system and contaminates it and it will all need to be evacuated under vacuum prior to recharge.
For 2006 I would just assume that every O ring needs to be replaced.
If this were mine I would not just start throwing parts at it because the AC system can drive one to the poor house real fast. Here is what I would do:
1. Go to a real automotive AC shop and have them leak test the system with whatever technique they like using.
2. Assess where the leaks are. O rings are cheap, bigger parts are not.
3. If it appears as though it is just misc. O rings leaking, buy and use the OEM O rings only. I would be happy to give you the part numbers and location of where an O ring is located on the system
4. Before replacing O rings and recharging the system you need to remove the compressor, and determine how much oil is in it. Report back and I will tell you how much oil resides in the other stuff so you do not overfill. Make sure you state if any hard parts were replaced so that the oil in them can be accounted for.
5. Replace the O rings, evacuate the system using a deep vacuum, and then recharge.
6. Have it recharged with R134A putting the exact amount in, by weight and weight alone. The amount to put in is located on the sticker under the hood and is usually near the top of the radiator. Do not recharge on the basis of system pressures per the AC gauges as those should only be used for diagnostics on Tacoma systems IMHO. Do not give it an extra amount "for good measure" as a slighly overcharged or slightly undercharged system on the Taco behaves much the same way -- it does not cool very well if at all.
????
California summers here and wife's '04 Rav4 was cooling just fine after 11 years and 160k.
My '08 Tacoma was fine after 8 years and 160k.
Only vehicles I've had cause AC issues have been messed with by someone who shouldn't have been messing with AC (either me or a previous owner)
Loss over time is not a guarantee but rather normal. Mine was low 2 1/2 years ago and wasn't functioning. System was recharged (with dye). No leaks found. Still running fine to this day. I suspect it'll be low again in another 6 years (or less with the seals getting even older and the higher number of miles I'm putting on it each year).
delphi compressor
was just on the phone with delphi and was told i will need a different suction line for their compressor but they couldn't tell me what line so not much help. guess ill take the new o ring around and see if i can get a line to fit it.
wish toyota would have just bought my truck instead of having me wait 8 months for the frame fix.
was just on the phone with delphi and was told i will need a different suction line for their compressor but they couldn't tell me what line so not much help. guess ill take the new o ring around and see if i can get a line to fit it.
wish toyota would have just bought my truck instead of having me wait 8 months for the frame fix.
posted my thanks earlier but it doesn't show , so again thanks for all the info.
Waaaaa?? Jerry, I have an OEM Delphi compressor here in my grubby little hands. Can you turn yours over and post all the numbers you see on the bottom, including the numbers scribed into the casings?
I already installed the compressor. I ordered new o rings and will get them tomorrow. found out all lines are standard so Delphi was worse than no help. gave me false info.
I just bought a new condenser at Napa. the factory condenser was a throw away. no changing the drier. One question. Should i add pag to the new condenser before installing?
One other thing about the compressor o ring. It was too big to fit snugly over the potruding fitting or nipple of the suction line. it did fall within the indentation of the compressor where the line bolted on.
?
I just bought a new condenser at Napa. the factory condenser was a throw away. no changing the drier. One question. Should i add pag to the new condenser before installing?
One other thing about the compressor o ring. It was too big to fit snugly over the potruding fitting or nipple of the suction line. it did fall within the indentation of the compressor where the line bolted on.
?
ok. in the compressor instructions, it mentions replacing other components including condenser. says to add 1 oz to condenser and 2 oz to accumulator or drier. do i just unscrew bottom of accumulator. ( it does have access) and pour oil in?
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