[bawnadon]

My battery was dead.

Jumped the battery but hooked up cables wrong.

Put car on battery charger.

Car has power now. Turns over but does not start. Seems like no power to engine. Engine light is on.

How to fix?

Is there a fuse that needs to be fixed?

2007 Camry LE with 4 cyl.

 

[Camry_wiz]

Check the main fuses and relays in the engine compartment, should be in a black box directly right of the battery itself. I not sure of which fuses to specifically check as I havent been in that compartment for much. But they are the ones to usually go when the battery is jumped with opposite polarity to prevent even more serious damage to actual components.

 

[Luna2]

Most likely the alternators 120 amp fuse is open. Go to the parts department and get one, as it is a bolt in fuse. Use a Volt/Ohm meter or a good mechanic to verify it is open first.

 

[RJI]

Where is that located?

 

[Luna2]

In the engine compartment, right side. There is a black box with all of the fuses and relays. In or on the lid is a listing of the fuses inside. Looking from the bumper, the far narrow end, and second one in from the right side. It is a very long fuse.

I would suggest that you tow it to the dealer for repair, assuming I am reading correctly between the lines, from your questions.

 

[RJI]

In the engine compartment, right side. There is a black box with all of the fuses and relays. In or on the lid is a listing of the fuses inside. Looking from the bumper, the far narrow end, and second one in from the right side. It is a very long fuse.

I would suggest that you tow it to the dealer for repair, assuming I am reading correctly between the lines, from your questions.

I did not realize there is a 120 amp fuse in there. That is the one I wondered about. I will look. Not a problem on my car but using this for reference.

 

[oro-o]

Yeah, and it's a pain to switch it out - Serious PITA. It requires dis-mounting the fuse box, wrestling the wire tubing to try to semi-invert it to gain access, and then removing 2 x 10mm nuts securing it that have zero clearance and near-zero throw angles to loosen the nut. It's only a $4 part, but it's $80 of labor to change.

If you are in this position, take your time and work slowly. Also, never get in this position and remove your battery leads if messing with the alternator or any time the FSM calls for it.

Here's the chant I use to remember how to jump start a car w/o doing this damage:

Doing CPR on a car:
Dead CAR, dead POST, dead REACH.

So that means on the car with bad battery (dead car), take the lead to the dead post (e.g., negative/ground), and REACH it to another ground besides the post.

E.g, ground the dead cars negative lead to earth - frame, engine, etc. Then you can never blow a battery (I have seen this screwed up and the battery explode and spray acid), blow an alternator diode pack, or blow a main bus fuse.

Hope my late night long-winded rant saves someone some pain down the road!

Cheers and another rum and ginger drink for me...

 

[RJI]

You never really said but I am guessing the 120 amp fuse is under the underhood fuse box. Is it inline or attached to the box ? Do you have a part number. Thanks for all the fine information. I have done frame of restorations and write for other forums but being new to Toyota, I have much to learn and appreciate when people like you take the time to pass on your knowledge.

Yeah, and it's a pain to switch it out - Serious PITA. It requires dis-mounting the fuse box, wrestling the wire tubing to try to semi-invert it to gain access, and then removing 2 x 10mm nuts securing it that have zero clearance and near-zero throw angles to loosen the nut. It's only a $4 part, but it's $80 of labor to change.

If you are in this position, take your time and work slowly. Also, never get in this position and remove your battery leads if messing with the alternator or any time the FSM calls for it.

Here's the chant I use to remember how to jump start a car w/o doing this damage:

Doing CPR on a car:
Dead CAR, dead POST, dead REACH.

So that means on the car with bad battery (dead car), take the lead to the dead post (e.g., negative/ground), and REACH it to another ground besides the post.

E.g, ground the dead cars negative lead to earth - frame, engine, etc. Then you can never blow a battery (I have seen this screwed up and the battery explode and spray acid), blow an alternator diode pack, or blow a main bus fuse.

Hope my late night long-winded rant saves someone some pain down the road!

Cheers and another rum and ginger drink for me...