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24 Posts
'94 pickup 4wd MT 22R engine 126K miles
Started losing antifreeze into the oil. Other than that, the engine ran great. Not having time to do the head gasket repair myself, I took it to a mechanic recommended as honest. Mentioned to him that this engine would probably need new timing chain guides.
Got it back Friday. New head gasket and timing chain kit. $820 and he thought the main bearing were about gone due to the noise (I hmmed at that since it only had the cold tick that is pretty common with these engines).
Noticed bad things from the first. Checked the oil and coolant before starting, looked OK. Fast idle at cold start was much faster than had been, lot of engine clatter, poor power, rough idle, bad spark knock under a load, occasional miss while driving, and when I got it to the parking lot at work a couple of miles away, was steaming pretty bad. Popped the hood and figured the steam was from spillage filling the radiator plus the cold morning. Saw a loose vacuum line on top of the engine. Reason it was loose if the vacuum switch fitting had broken. $80 for a new one, rigged the old to work until he gets a new part.
After putting on the 'fixed' switched I looked the engine over real close and noticed two other vacuum lines disconneted on the back of the engine (the one to the carbon can was the only one connected). Reconnected them and drove home. Had more power but still bad spark knock under load and temp gauge went all the way over to red before dropping back down to normal. Now warm, the engine has a really bad rattling knock when engine spins down during gear shifts or slow coasting decleration. Really BAD knock. I limped it on home as gently as I could, about 20 miles.
Saterday morning I ran it long enough to warm up, again temp gauge went into red before dropping to normal. I adjusted the rocker-arms to take almost all the slop out while hot. Now the engine is quite enough to hear the new timing chain and gears whine. Noticed a the two vacuum hoses going over to the power stearing pump had been reversed (ones slightly shorter than the other), so I exchanged them. Also noticed one of the mounting bolts to the throttle cable support bracket on the throttle body was missing. Although the barket was tight it wasn't quite in line over the bolt hole.
Now the warm idle is so slow she wants to die (I might have the rocker arms a little too tight although I just took out the slop while hot). Still has spark knock and horrid knock when engine spins down after its gets warm. Looked at the distributer and finally noticed it the locking bolt wasn't tight and I could easily rotate it with one hand. I locked the distributor down about where it had been (going on the bolt marks) and that should retard the timing a bit but haven't driven it to put it under a load yet. It still has the horrid knock when spinning down after its gets warm.
Came to me late last night that horrid knock could be the timing chain expanding as it warms and slapping against something. I've not been into that part of the engine yet so don't have a good idea how the tensioner works.
With everthing else this 'honest' mechanic has done (or not done), could he have forgotten to adjust the tensioner? Is it self adjusting? Can I adjust it without tearing the front of the engine off? (I think I recall doing something like this on one of my vehicles but its been awhile and I can't find anything in my manuals on this truck for adjusting the timing chain tensioner.) Could he have managed to have locked it down or jammed it some how so its not taking the slack out of the chain when it warms up?
More importantly, will I be doing my engine serious harm driving it back to this guy (25 miles) to fix these problems?
The owner of the shop and I talked a bit on Friday when all I had found was the broking vacuum switch. He was very up front about wanting to fix anythin the wasn't right and already have an appointment to bring the truck in on Tuesday. You can be sure we'll be talking again tomorrow!
Thanks for listening. Any advice welcome.
David :hammer: in Missouri
Started losing antifreeze into the oil. Other than that, the engine ran great. Not having time to do the head gasket repair myself, I took it to a mechanic recommended as honest. Mentioned to him that this engine would probably need new timing chain guides.
Got it back Friday. New head gasket and timing chain kit. $820 and he thought the main bearing were about gone due to the noise (I hmmed at that since it only had the cold tick that is pretty common with these engines).
Noticed bad things from the first. Checked the oil and coolant before starting, looked OK. Fast idle at cold start was much faster than had been, lot of engine clatter, poor power, rough idle, bad spark knock under a load, occasional miss while driving, and when I got it to the parking lot at work a couple of miles away, was steaming pretty bad. Popped the hood and figured the steam was from spillage filling the radiator plus the cold morning. Saw a loose vacuum line on top of the engine. Reason it was loose if the vacuum switch fitting had broken. $80 for a new one, rigged the old to work until he gets a new part.
After putting on the 'fixed' switched I looked the engine over real close and noticed two other vacuum lines disconneted on the back of the engine (the one to the carbon can was the only one connected). Reconnected them and drove home. Had more power but still bad spark knock under load and temp gauge went all the way over to red before dropping back down to normal. Now warm, the engine has a really bad rattling knock when engine spins down during gear shifts or slow coasting decleration. Really BAD knock. I limped it on home as gently as I could, about 20 miles.
Saterday morning I ran it long enough to warm up, again temp gauge went into red before dropping to normal. I adjusted the rocker-arms to take almost all the slop out while hot. Now the engine is quite enough to hear the new timing chain and gears whine. Noticed a the two vacuum hoses going over to the power stearing pump had been reversed (ones slightly shorter than the other), so I exchanged them. Also noticed one of the mounting bolts to the throttle cable support bracket on the throttle body was missing. Although the barket was tight it wasn't quite in line over the bolt hole.
Now the warm idle is so slow she wants to die (I might have the rocker arms a little too tight although I just took out the slop while hot). Still has spark knock and horrid knock when engine spins down after its gets warm. Looked at the distributer and finally noticed it the locking bolt wasn't tight and I could easily rotate it with one hand. I locked the distributor down about where it had been (going on the bolt marks) and that should retard the timing a bit but haven't driven it to put it under a load yet. It still has the horrid knock when spinning down after its gets warm.
Came to me late last night that horrid knock could be the timing chain expanding as it warms and slapping against something. I've not been into that part of the engine yet so don't have a good idea how the tensioner works.
With everthing else this 'honest' mechanic has done (or not done), could he have forgotten to adjust the tensioner? Is it self adjusting? Can I adjust it without tearing the front of the engine off? (I think I recall doing something like this on one of my vehicles but its been awhile and I can't find anything in my manuals on this truck for adjusting the timing chain tensioner.) Could he have managed to have locked it down or jammed it some how so its not taking the slack out of the chain when it warms up?
More importantly, will I be doing my engine serious harm driving it back to this guy (25 miles) to fix these problems?
The owner of the shop and I talked a bit on Friday when all I had found was the broking vacuum switch. He was very up front about wanting to fix anythin the wasn't right and already have an appointment to bring the truck in on Tuesday. You can be sure we'll be talking again tomorrow!
Thanks for listening. Any advice welcome.
David :hammer: in Missouri