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Thank all of you for the input I took it to the shop and got a quote for it to be done. It was 600 or so with a warranty so just went ahead and payed to have it done
 

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ASE CMAT L1 MRRT
09 Avalon XL
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My 09 Avalon's manufacture date is April 2009 so I don't think I have the bad pump design.

@ foreman1063 re: Be patient and keep removing things until the WP comes off.

Nah, I'm going to keep taking it apart because I so enjoy working on my own car after I work on cars all day. Also, when I have lost something, it is not always in the last place I look. I keep looking because you never know if you will find another one of what you lost so you will have two and if you lose one, you're ok. :) :)

Sometimes a DIYer will ask me how tight something should be. I tell them tighten it until it breaks off then back it off 1/4 turn. Like I know torque specs by heart...

Sorry...has a little too much libation all in fun
 

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Water pump is failing. Engine sounds like a diesel. I can see the water pump wheel oscillating instead of spinning smoothly. 57,000 miles on my 08 HL.:headbang:
 

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Same thing with my wife's HL. Just picked it up yesterday from dealership.
Must be lucky because it had 141k miles on it before it was replaced.
 

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ASE CMAT L1 MRRT
09 Avalon XL
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820 Posts
Water pump is failing. Engine sounds like a diesel. I can see the water pump wheel oscillating instead of spinning smoothly. 57,000 miles on my 08 HL.:headbang:
I replaced the water pump on a 2008 Highlander 2 weeks ago. It also was rattling and the water pump pulley was visibly loose. This one had less than 40K on the odometer.

With a new belt the job was about $775.00 including a flush.

For the DIY, it is not a difficult job, just time consuming.
 
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Seems premature to me. Granted, my HL is 6 years old. I still think it should have lasted much longer considering my engine run hours.
 

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Just replaced mine with 66,000 miles on it. Seems to early to fail. Had the mechanic do the serpentine belt while he was in there.
 

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2008 Toyota Highlander
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Had to replace the water pump on my '08 Highlander a couple of weeks ago at 80,000 mi. Thankfully it was still under the used car warranty and just a $100 deductible. The bill to the warranty was over $900. I specifically asked for the new Toyota PN for the water pump. Hopefully this pump is an improved version.
 

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Does any one have directions how to change the wp or can point me in the right direction. Have a lot removed but stuck on a bolt right behind belt tensioner
 

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I'm replacing the waterpump on my 08 HL as we speak. 179k on the odometer and the thing was starting to sound like a deisel. Things I'd get before I ever do this job again are:
Radiator hose 1&2, Thermostat, new phh that connects to waterpump, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, waterpump, new 12mm bolts that have some sort of loc-tite on them. All oem parts!
I'm not done with the job yet, still trying to put her back together.
 

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I guess my next question is how do you take the tensioner off? Do you remove the tensioner pulley only or the whole thing?
You only need to remove the pulley only. Not the whole assembly. The threading is opposite on the pulley. Lefty to tighty. Righty to loosey. Good luck.
 

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Glad I found this forum. I just had my 3rd water pump installed. Immediately after the 60,000 service, I found a puddle beneath my car. The dealership admitted fault, but still charged the warranty. After driving the vehicle home, again, I found a puddle beneath my car the next morning. The dealership said the pump must be faulty. They replaced it again and again charged the warranty. Now at 96,000, a different Toyota dealership found evidence of the water pump leaking, yet again. They replaced it last week. For a week now, I have smelled coolant when I turn on the heat. The tech did say he feels like he "got more antifreeze on the car than in the car." Am I smelling residue burning or should I be concerned about a heater core leak or something else?
 

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2008 Toyota Highlander
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Glad I found this forum. I just had my 3rd water pump installed. Immediately after the 60,000 service, I found a puddle beneath my car. The dealership admitted fault, but still charged the warranty. After driving the vehicle home, again, I found a puddle beneath my car the next morning. The dealership said the pump must be faulty. They replaced it again and again charged the warranty. Now at 96,000, a different Toyota dealership found evidence of the water pump leaking, yet again. They replaced it last week. For a week now, I have smelled coolant when I turn on the heat. The tech did say he feels like he "got more antifreeze on the car than in the car." Am I smelling residue burning or should I be concerned about a heater core leak or something else?
If the tech said a lot of antifreeze splashed on the engine block, you will be smelling it for a while until it all evaporates, and even then, the ethylene glycol will smell again when it gets wet. The engine compartment needs to be washed and cleaned to get the sticky antifreeze off.

To be absolutely certain it isn't another leak, you will need to monitor the level of the reservoir tank. If it stays at the same level over a month's time, then you are probably just fine.

Do you know if any of the three water pumps you had installed were the newer part number listed earlier in this thread?

*EDIT*
Guess the new part number is in a different thread.

jab_jaw, are you able to check if any of the three pumps match the newer part number: 16100-09441
It originally was: 16100-39455
Now its: 16100-09441
 

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I have a 2008 Toyota Highlander. According to all three service invoices, the replacement water pumps all have part number 16100-09441. Including the original, I have had four water pumps on my Highlander. I do not have the part number for the original water pump on my vehicle. I only have record of the replacement parts.
 

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ASE CMAT L1 MRRT
09 Avalon XL
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820 Posts
Perhaps a sanding disc was used to clean the gasket surfaces, leaving behind the abrasive particles from the sanding disc. Another possibility is that the remnants of the old pump are floating around in the cooling system, ready to destroy the new water pump seal. All it takes is some fine aluminum shavings to destroy the seal.


Anytime I drain a cooling system, after the job is finished, I fill up a gallon jug with water and douse the area where I was working. This removes 95% of the spilled coolant. Then I let it sit in back running for an hour.
 
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