Toyota Nation Forum banner

Battery/Alternator Problems

894 Views 39 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  BillDurham
2000 Camry 5SFE. Got a brand new battery and drove the car around for a few weeks. Then the car sat for about 6 months, battery 100% dead. Jump started the car, got it running, drove it around for about an hour. Parked it, took out spark plus and wires, did a warm compression test, then disconnected the negative terminal and went to sleep. Next day I go to do a cold compression test, reattach the negative terminal, battery is dead. Remove the battery from the car, 7.9v.
Brand new battery is smoked? Or did it just get too drained for the alternator to effectively charge it while driving for an hour?
1 - 20 of 40 Posts
Not really enough information. But leaving a fully charged battery connected and leaving sit for 6 months, it would be very possible the battery would be dead during that time duration. All cars with EFI systems have a slight power drain from the battery when the car is off to maintain certain data or settings. Same would be true on newer radios. So this isn't very surprising to have happen.

The part about having a fully charged battery which had enough reserve to do a complete compression test, then disconnecting it for the evening, then the next morning only having 7.9V is a bit more surprising. The battery may have been heavily drained with all those starting events to get compression values on all 4 cylinders. However, if it was still able to turn the engine over the last time, then disconnected, if anything, it should have recovered a bit and with the spark plugs out, it still should have turned the engine over. That said, a battery that was previously drained 100% will not completely rebound. A completely dead battery does damage a battery somewhat. It may be possible your battery now as some plates that have shorted together, that reduces voltage. The long period of being dead may have sulfided plates as well.

I would think you should return your battery for a replacement and try again. I would also highly suggest that when you do sometheing like cause a draw to the degree checking compression pressures will do, you put the battery on a charger immediately - don't leave it at a low charge state for any long period of time. You might want to check the voltage at the battery with the engine running, to make sure you are at 14+V (to make sure the alternator is working properly).
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
I think the following site provides support for the OP's battery likely being destroyed: https://mechanics.stackexchange.com...t-went-completely-flat-is-permanently-damaged. Excerpts:

"[T]he chemistry has shifted in such a way that there is no easy recovery. ... While you can 'charge' the battery to what seems a reasonable open circuit voltage, this charge is superficial and does not represent the SOC (State of Charge) that would exist on a non-damaged battery."

"A damaged battery may 'appear' to charge up to 12.6 volts, but when actually put under regular load it will drain quickly again, due to the internal damage mentioned. It may "still kinda work", but if this is an auto battery for example, you will become the person that needs to get their car jumped every couple of days."


The site also says that using a damaged battery can damage the alternator. It has a report from a guy whose battery also sat for six months.

L81Robs, does the charge warning light (the battery icon in the instrument panel) come on during the lamp check (key in "On" position, but engine not running)?

I would stop using this battery right now. I would buy a new a battery. I would check and record the battery voltage with the engine off and the engine running. Then I would drive around for 15 minutes and repeat the checks. I would be looking for signs that the alternator brushes or voltage regulator need replacement.
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 2
+1 that probably killed the new battery. You can try a charger/battery restorer, but it might not help. Given it's under exchange warranty, just get a new one.

But make sure the alternator is good (outputting about 13.5-14.5v) as well as all the cables and connections are corrosion free.

I always "top off" a new battery using a charger before install. Less strain on the alternator as well, which isn't meant to charge up a depleted battery anyway.
  • Like
Reactions: 2
Then the car sat for about 6 months, battery 100% dead. Jump started the car, got it running, drove it around for about an hour. Parked it, took out spark plus and wires, did a warm compression test, then disconnected the negative terminal and went to sleep. Next day I go to do a cold compression test, reattach the negative terminal, battery is dead. Remove the battery from the car, 7.9v.


SOUNDS like the battery sat too long and died, and you didnt chaerge it wnough.. .then all those compression tests likelty killed an already weakened battery....

We've all done it...but you shouldn't really use an alternator to charge up a battery, instead invest in a good charger / maintainer.

Willing to bet if you throw it on a charger and drive the car at least once every couple weeks, you'll be good.
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Next day I go to do a cold compression test, reattach the negative terminal, battery is dead. Remove the battery from the car, 7.9v.
Brand new battery is smoked?
Gonna say it's smoked. .. * Or at least 'suspect' at this point.

Only way to find out .. is to put it on a proper battery charger ( 6 / 10 amp ) for a few days. Don't leave the battery 'unattended' while charging - place it in a dry area away from any vehicle or structure: and check on it regularly for any sign of leak, overheat, or bulging or swelling of the case, while charging. * Treat as 'suspect', until confident it is not.

With a weak / minimal reserve to start: battery may be 'beyond the point of return'. (Toast.)

+1 w/ all above to exchange / or replace the battery.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Not really enough information. But leaving a fully charged battery connected and leaving sit for 6 months, it would be very possible the battery would be dead during that time duration. All cars with EFI systems have a slight power drain from the battery when the car is off to maintain certain data or settings. Same would be true on newer radios. So this isn't very surprising to have happen. The part about having a fully charged battery which had enough reserve to do a complete compression test, then disconnecting it for the evening, then the next morning only having 7.9V is a bit more surprising. The battery may have been heavily drained with all those starting events to get compression values on all 4 cylinders. However, if it was still able to turn the engine over the last time, then disconnected, if anything, it should have recovered a bit and with the spark plugs out, it still should have turned the engine over. That said, a battery that was previously drained 100% will not completely rebound. A completely dead battery does damage a battery somewhat. It may be possible your battery now as some plates that have shorted together, that reduces voltage. The long period of being dead may have sulfided plates as well. I would think you should return your battery for a replacement and try again. I would also highly suggest that when you do sometheing like cause a draw to the degree checking compression pressures will do, you put the battery on a charger immediately - don't leave it at a low charge state for any long period of time. You might want to check the voltage at the battery with the engine running, to make sure you are at 14+V (to make sure the alternator is working properly).
Thanks for the tips. My first time trying a lot of this stuff. I was thinking of taking the battery off the car and putting it on a charger to see if it will get up to and hold a good voltage before I replace it. Another aspect to this story - when I replaced the battery I cleaned up the positive terminal, and since then (1 week driving, 6 months sitting) there was a pretty good amount of corrosion build up on the positive terminal.
  • Like
Reactions: 2
You may get your battery voltage on target after a full charge on a battery charger. But your reserve capacity may have decreased significantly (with stultification of the plates caused by the slow continuous drain going on when you had the battery connected when in storage). Just saying "holding" a good voltage after fully recharging means something, but not very much.

Regarding the positive battery terminal, did you chemically clean it with a neutralizing solution? If not, some of the material that caused the corrosion in the first place likely was not removed from the terminal (like in the area where the bolt clamps), so the process just continued after the cleaning. I don't feel the replacement battery had anything to do with the corrosion returning on your positive cable connector.
  • Like
Reactions: 2
^^ That's a good point @93celicaconv - on the '00 here when received, the (split) battery terminals were in questionable shape: due to a venting or weeping battery - over the years.

The corrosion extended into the terminal under the plastic casing, so you couldn't see it: but if you 'tapped' the side of the terminal against the battery - material / 'white stuff' would fall out.

Ended up replacing both terminals w/ OEM, as part of normal maintenance.

Permatex Battery protectorant (aka: "pink shellac in a can") has kept the terminals & cable rings/lugs in good shape since then.
You may get your battery voltage on target after a full charge on a battery charger. But your reserve capacity may have decreased significantly (with stultification of the plates caused by the slow continuous drain going on when you had the battery connected when in storage). Just saying "holding" a good voltage after fully recharging means something, but not very much.

Regarding the positive battery terminal, did you chemically clean it with a neutralizing solution? If not, some of the material that caused the corrosion in the first place likely was not removed from the terminal (like in the area where the bolt clamps), so the process just continued after the cleaning. I don't feel the replacement battery had anything to do with the corrosion returning on your positive cable connector.
Probably didn’t clean it properly… called advance auto parts they have a 2 year warranty. I don’t feel like sticking the battery on a charger for a few days to monitor it so I’ll just trade it in for a new one. Bought a new positive terminal clamp as well because the bolt snapped when I was getting the old one off. Thanks for the info about the reserve capacity. Didn’t know anything about car batteries before this thread.
called advance auto parts they have a 2 year warranty.
What brand battery, if you don't mind me asking?
What brand battery, if you don't mind me asking?
Battery was Die hard silver. Just got a replacement on warranty. Advance auto guy didn’t believe that the battery was shot since I bought it so recently. Don’t really have time to put it on a charger for a few days so he didn’t mind trading it in. Got a 2/8/15 amp charger while I was out so I don’t make the same mistakes again.
  • Like
Reactions: 2
Battery was Die hard silver. Just got a replacement on warranty. Advance auto guy didn’t believe that the battery was shot since I bought it so recently. Don’t really have time to put it on a charger for a few days so he didn’t mind trading it in. Got a 2/8/15 amp charger while I was out so I don’t make the same mistakes again.

I persoanlly have had the worst luck with die hards... Rule of theumb I used t have was Id have to go through 3 bateries til li got a new one... back then though theyd throw some kind of tester on it and say it was bad. and you were in and out in 5 minutes.

Then a few years ago Sears started a new policy where they do "advanced" testing that took several hours and only then woudl they give yo ua new battery if the machine considered it a defective unit....


Im surprised they just exchanged it though... normally these days they throw it on a charger, test / load test etc... before they give out a new one. Even Walmart started doing that.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Glad to read the Advance Auto guy took care of you there @L81Robs . (y)

Hoping the compression testing goes well for you.
I persoanlly have had the worst luck with die hards... Rule of theumb I used t have was Id have to go through 3 bateries til li got a new one... back then though theyd throw some kind of tester on it and say it was bad. and you were in and out in 5 minutes.

Then a few years ago Sears started a new policy where they do "advanced" testing that took several hours and only then woudl they give yo ua new battery if the machine considered it a defective unit....


Im surprised they just exchanged it though... normally these days they throw it on a charger, test / load test etc... before they give out a new one. Even Walmart started doing that.
Yes, not too many years ago that was the case here in the Eastern US also - when those Sears batteries died, they "DiedHard" LOL, bring it in to the service center - they'd slap you a new battery on a cart .. spin you around, & out you went. That was when Exide was the supplier for the Diehard brand under Sears / who did some 'shady stuff' / and were fined for it. (Apparently representing / selling used batteries as 'new' was a big no-no. History of this is on Wikipedia, if you want to take a look.)

Advance Auto purchased the DieHard brand name - as part of the Sears divestiture.

Post sale to Advance Auto - I''ve read / been told that Johnson Controls is the battery manufacturer & supplier for the Diehard brand, once again. .. * Same as the Everstart Maxx batteries sold by Walmart in this area: I've had good luck w/ those batteries here, and they're a few $$$ cheaper around here.
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Yes, not too many years ago that was the case here in the Eastern US also - when those Sears batteries died, they "DiedHard" LOL, bring it in to the service center - they'd slap you a new battery on a cart .. spin you around, & out you went. That was when Exide was the supplier for the Diehard brand under Sears / who did some 'shady stuff' / and were fined for it. (Apparently representing / selling used batteries as 'new' was a big no-no. History of this is on Wikipedia, if you want to take a look.)

Advance Auto purchased the DieHard brand name - as part of the Sears divestiture.

Post sale to Advance Auto - I''ve read / been told that Johnson Controls is the battery manufacturer & supplier for the Diehard brand, once again. .. * Same as the Everstart Maxx batteries sold by Walmart in this area: I've had good luck w/ those batteries here, and they're a few $$$ cheaper around here.

yeah, all our Sears closed up as of alst year. but i switched to the Walmart batteries mayube 6?? years ago and have not had any issues with one at all.

I change my batteries often though when the warranty runs out since im always on the road / for work and cant risk a dead battery....I keep the older ones for my projects though and so far they areall really good .
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Car batteries (lead acid) don't like to remain under charged. Leaving it in that state can reduce its capacity. If the car isn't driven for a while, just put the charger on there to top off. That's what I do anyway.

The 2/8/15 IMO is slightly on the larger side but should be fine. Most 24F batteries are about 79 Ah, so 1/10 charge rate would be 8 amps. I prefer a lower rate like 4-6 amps but will take more time, but that's just me. I personally try to select a charging speed that keeps the voltage below 14.5v. Some fast chargers go 15v+.


Battery characteristics, problems and fault Diagnosis
Undercharging occurs if the battery is not receiving enough charge to return it to a full state of charge, this will slowly cause sulphation. This fault can occur if the car is being used only occasionally for short journeys, or for Start-Stop urban motoring.
  • Like
Reactions: 2
So constant short trips will shorten the life of a battery.
If it doesn't sufficiently top off the battery, yes gradually.
If it doesn't sufficiently top off the battery, yes gradually.


I can attest to this. In fact, im dealing with it right now.!
1 - 20 of 40 Posts
Top