[Combomambo]

I did an engine swap from a '92 to a '93 2.2L back in November and since then my Battery light has been acting weird. It stays on most of my driving but sometimes it goes off and I can't get it to come back on even if I try by using tons of power (like brights with blaring radio, turn signals, interior light, etc.) Sometimes it only comes on when I brake and sometimes I hear a clicking noise that matches my turn signal (most likely due to not enough power).

Battery is brand new and has been checked and alt has been checked 4 times. Any thoughts? Would a bad grounding possibly be the cause?

 

[djb2]

The "battery" light indicates an alternator fault, not a battery problem.

Check the alternator wiring connection and the brush length.

 

[Combomambo]

The wiring connection is kinda bad because the stud is stripped so the nut does hold on the wiring but it is not tight. And it appears to get metal shavings or something on top of the nut. What do you mean by brush length?

 

[djb2]

A bad connection on the main charging wire will cause load drop-outs and arcing. Check for evidence at the contact area. The resulting voltage spikes can damage the voltage regulator or even the diodes. Find a way to secure that connection.

The brush carrier location depends on the alternator brand. It may be simply held onto the back of the alternator with two screws.

 

[BamZipPow]

Who's checked the alternator 4 times? How was it checked? Was it put on a load test machine? How many amps did it produce?

If the wire isn't held on tight, you won't be able to git the proper load. Time to either replace the alternator with one from the parts yard or rebuild the one you have. You should be able to use www.car-part.com to find one local to you or someone who can ship one to you.

 

[Chris Crash]

Also, check the belt. If it's loose, it'll cause some problems. It might look tight, but feel it.

 

[djb2]

Also, check the belt. If it's loose, it'll cause some problems. It might look tight, but feel it.

Ignore this advice.

The belt only needs to be snug, not tight. A too-tight belt will destroy the alternator front bearing.

The belt works by being pulled deeper into the grooves as the load increases. The friction pressure comes from the grooves pressing in on the belt, not the belt tension. There only has to be enough initial tension to start the process.

 

[Chris Crash]

I meant loose as in you can fit a finger between the belt and the pulley....

But you're right, you should ignore the belt completely. Hell, take it off it doesn't do anything.

 

[Combomambo]

Who's checked the alternator 4 times? How was it checked? Was it put on a load test machine? How many amps did it produce?

If the wire isn't held on tight, you won't be able to git the proper load. Time to either replace the alternator with one from the parts yard or rebuild the one you have. You should be able to use www.car-part.com to find one local to you or someone who can ship one to you.

Autozone checked it. I thought about rebuilding it but that looked difficult. I will post pictures of the wires in a couple hours.

 

[Nervous]

Here is DIY how to replace alternator brushes:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3204489&postcount=186

 

[Combomambo]

Here is DIY how to replace alternator brushes:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3204489&postcount=186

Thanks very much! I will start on that on saturday. Where can I get the brushes and is it possible to replace the stud?

 

[Combomambo]

Here are the pics....

 

[Nervous]

Thanks very much! I will start on that on saturday. Where can I get the brushes and is it possible to replace the stud?

Local Toyota Dealer, rockauto.com, partznet.com

As to the stud. It is a part of a big part, actually, which is expensive to replace (look for 27357, OEM part no is 27357‑74160).

I would just re-thread it and use smaller bolt, if necessary.