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Discussion Starter #1
The car wouldn't start last week. I jumped it (used another car) no problem and then took it for a ride on the highway for an hour. The battery light was on after I jumped it (light was NOT on before dead battery). The next day when I tried to start it, it barely started. I removed the battery from the car and charged it over night (NOCO Genius G26000). Installed battery and the car started right up, but the battery light still on. Ran some errands that day with no problem, but two days later when trying to start the car, just clicking noise. Went to Autozone and bought a Duralast Platinum AGM battery. The car starts up fine, but battery light still on. I noticed that it seems that the blower for the heat/AC is weak. Only the fastest speed (4) makes a noise (air blowing). 1 and 2 are silent and 3 barely makes any noise. The wiper blades also seem to move slower than normal. When I rotate the steering wheel to back out of a parking spot or making a u-turn, there is some resistance turning the wheel.

Is the alternator the culprit? I guess not driving the car much for the past four months has killed the battery and the alternator.

BTW, the old battery was a Diehard Gold (E5 - May 2015).
 

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Sure
The car wouldn't start last week. I jumped it (used another car) no problem and then took it for a ride on the highway for an hour. The battery light was on after I jumped it (light was NOT on before dead battery). The next day when I tried to start it, it barely started. I removed the battery from the car and charged it over night (NOCO Genius G26000). Installed battery and the car started right up, but the battery light still on. Ran some errands that day with no problem, but two days later when trying to start the car, just clicking noise. Went to Autozone and bought a Duralast Platinum AGM battery. The car starts up fine, but battery light still on. I noticed that it seems that the blower for the heat/AC is weak. Only the fastest speed (4) makes a noise (air blowing). 1 and 2 are silent and 3 barely makes any noise. The wiper blades also seem to move slower than normal. When I rotate the steering wheel to back out of a parking spot or making a u-turn, there is some resistance turning the wheel.

Is the alternator the culprit? I guess not driving the car much for the past four months has killed the battery and the alternator.

BTW, the old battery was a Diehard Gold (E5 - May 2015).
Sure, your problem is electrical problem and the culprit is either bad alternator supplying inadequate voltage to electrical components of your vehicle or defective wiring somewhere
 

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Slow AF
2012 Matrix
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272 Posts
I'd check your grounds.. And check that your battery terminals are clamped down enough. If that checks out then id check the voltage off the alternator.
 

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2010 Corolla Altis XRS
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Take a multi meter and take a reading between the terminals of battery without engine running....should be between 12-12.8V. Then start the engine and check the readings between the terminals.....should be around 14.5 V.....if not....then i would think about replacing the alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I checked the grounds (all that I could find). I installed the battery myself and the terminals are tight. I even checked the connections inside the fuse-box under the hood. Everything is tight. I will have to look into testing the voltage off the alternator.

I was thinking of bringing the alternator to Autozone to test it, but I've heard that is not always reliable.

I was checking out RockAuto last night. They have two DENSO rebuilt alternators that should fit the car, and they seem to have the same specs. Can't figure out what the difference between them is.

BTW, 2012 Toyota Corolla LE 1.8L Automatic.

Update: I checked the battery with engine off and got 11.5V and with engine running 11.25V. Going to charge the battery tonight and order an alternator on RockAuto. Should I also get a new belt? I'm guessing the belt on the car is original.
 

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2010 Corolla Altis XRS
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Dont know where your at....but here in Vancouver...this car is a dime a dozen....so maybe check out your local pick a part ( wreckers ).....it may be feasable for you to get a used one from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I do have a pretty good Pick-A-Part place near me, but I called them and they do not have one available. RockAuto prices are great compared to Autozone / O'Reilly / Advance Auto, but I do like the fact that the Duralast alternator has a lifetime warranty (only 1 year for Denso from RockAuto), just not sure if Duralast is as good as a rebuilt Denso. Of course the rebuilt Duralast could be a Denso.

The car is my parents and I've only had to do oil changes and a brake job on it. Their older 98 Corolla I've had to rebuild starter, replace valve cover gasket, replace washer fluid reservoir, replace driver door outside handle, exhaust from down-pipe to muffler and the struts (along with oil changes and brake jobs). Normally I only work on Fords and older Jeeps.
 

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2006 Corolla XRS
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Measure your voltage drop between the battery and alternator. You should be around .002v.

Then, you can pull off the belt and turn the pulley by hand. You likely have a weak pulley and isn't producing a good enough EMF. The brushes likely have worn out.

I don't trust those tools that AutoZone and O'reilleys uses to test the battery, alternator, and starter.
 

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a topic i am interested in. I that i am ruling things out myself. very close to what 98_corolla_Le is having but less the bat light. I am going to think about the Alt for sure, I checked my voltage but will further test it, and before I start messing i want to rule things out, following along.
 

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Slow AF
2012 Matrix
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272 Posts
I checked the grounds (all that I could find). I installed the battery myself and the terminals are tight. I even checked the connections inside the fuse-box under the hood. Everything is tight. I will have to look into testing the voltage off the alternator.

I was thinking of bringing the alternator to Autozone to test it, but I've heard that is not always reliable.

I was checking out RockAuto last night. They have two DENSO rebuilt alternators that should fit the car, and they seem to have the same specs. Can't figure out what the difference between them is.

BTW, 2012 Toyota Corolla LE 1.8L Automatic.

Update: I checked the battery with engine off and got 11.5V and with engine running 11.25V. Going to charge the battery tonight and order an alternator on RockAuto. Should I also get a new belt? I'm guessing the belt on the car is original.
I was having issues with my lights dimming and my car would idle so low it would feel like the engine is vibrating/hesitating to stay running. I swapped my alternator with a denso rebuild from rock auto and I haven't had issues since. I also bought a new battery for it too.

I would change the belt. It doesn't hurt. Especially considering its a fairly cheap part but extremely important. I changed mine about 9 months before My alternator, When my water pump started making noise.

I think my old alternator had a bad pulley clutch or something. It wasn't charging the battery completely.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Got the alternator and new belt today from RockAuto. Going to replace them tomorrow if the weather holds up (suppose to get thunder storms). Will post back if everything goes well, or doesn't.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Just finished installing the alternator and took a test drive. Battery light OFF when I first started the car. Everything seems to be good now.

Changing out the alternator was pretty easy (not as easy as on a V8 with rear wheel drive). The lower bolt was the only issue. Used a short extension bar to help break it free. Sprayed some silicon lube on the bolt threads to make it easier to spin out.
 

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Slow AF
2012 Matrix
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272 Posts
Just finished installing the alternator and took a test drive. Battery light OFF when I first started the car. Everything seems to be good now.

Changing out the alternator was pretty easy (not as easy as on a V8 with rear wheel drive). The lower bolt was the only issue. Used a short extension bar to help break it free. Sprayed some silicon lube on the bolt threads to make it easier to spin out.
Good stuff. I'm. Glad it's all working good for you so far!
 
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