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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello!
I just wanted to share that I finished my BIG 3 Upgrade - AND NO MORE DIMMING LIGHTS!! Woohoo!!

If you don't knowxhwat the big 3 is - Google it and there will be a million videos and links and pictures..

Ok so I did mine with 4 gauge wire (because I had a ton of it laying around) and for my system - it's more than suffice.

I'm running a Alpine 500w RMS sub with a Alpine 500w RMS amp.
I set my gain to about 75 percent - Boost to about 20 percent.

Whenever I bumpee music to about 70 percent and up volume, my interior and exterior lights dim when the bass would kick. Kinda badly actually. So I figured give this a shot and wa-la.. It went away.

Out stock alternator gives out ~100 amps and when everything is running, the amp will ask for a lot of power when the bass notes come. Well the Alternators stock wiring through the car isn't meant or designed for added wattage. Much less an Amp asking for a lot of it on demand. So when the bass notes hit, the alternator will struggle and the volts on the battery will drop - hence the dimming lights that need 12 - 14 colts of power to stay lit.

And before you ask, capacitors are useless IMO. (Especially when I'm only running 500w RMS) Google that too :)

I hope this helps someone with dimming lights!


Here's an over view of the wires. You can see I tied them to the strut tower away from the radiator and engine.


Close up of the battery. 2 ground wires. One leading the chassis. One leading back to the alternator negative. (Engine block ground works also) 1 positive wire leading to positive on alternator.


Close up of the positive


Close up of the negative.


Close up of where I grounded the 2nd ground. (Strut tower bolt)


Fused between the alternator and positive battery post. ALWAYS FUSE!!!
I'm running 100amp fuse. Given the stock alternator will probably never even reach that.


The system I'm running.
Sws-12d4
Mrv-m500


Where I tapped the LOC for the sun and amp. I did this to both the left and right speaker.


My system from behind.

And that's it! I hope this helps someone with the issue of dimming lights when the bass comes! And maybe if you wanna Install a sub - this is where I tapped into so I didnt have to remove the HU.

Oh and SOLDER AND COVER EVERYTHING! It well worth your time and investment to solder your connections. Try to not show ANY copper or exposed wiring.

Oh and the tape I used is called self healing tape to secure the wires in some areas! Electric tape gets gooey when it's heated haha! And the self healing tape is removable.
I used PARMA silicone servo tape to affix the fuse holder. Ridiculously strong hold , waterproof and comes off clean. (I seriously use this suff on everything)

I didn't measure the voltage drop before install, I wish I did. But I'm guessing It was a lot. May 1-1.5 volt drop when bass hit? I dunno. I haven't mesaured it after yet. I'll let you know.
Normal with no audio though is ~14 volts on batt and alt.

Thanks for reading!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I crimped them slightly first to hold them in place and then filled with solder and then shirk wrapped everything.
 

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Nice job. I always wondered if short voltage spikes have a negative long term effect on the car's electrical system? Guess it's better to be safe than sorry. Are you only running the 1 Alpine amp?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yup just the one for now..

I was looking at upgrading my speakers soon too..
The alpine power pack seems like a really good option as far as adding a 4 channel amp is concerned

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-KTP-445U-4-channel-Power-Amplifier/dp/B003VVYL46[/ame]

And some nice Polk components and 6x9s.

We'll see.. Haha

As far as long term affects on the alternator. I'm unsure, Im sure I revlevied a little stress though when those bass notes hit.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I used 4 gauge because I had a lot of it laying around, i wanted to use 1/0 gauge but after some research thought 4 gauge should be plenty.

I know our stock alternators produce somewhere in the realm of 100amps. And 4 gauge high strand count wore can transfer 125amps smoothly.

If I ever upgrade my system, I'll do it over with 1/0 gauge. But for now, it work nicely! :)
 

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Hello!
I just wanted to share that I finished my BIG 3 Upgrade - AND NO MORE DIMMING LIGHTS!! Woohoo!!

If you don't knowxhwat the big 3 is - Google it and there will be a million videos and links and pictures..

Ok so I did mine with 4 gauge wire (because I had a ton of it laying around) and for my system - it's more than suffice.

I'm running a Alpine 500w RMS sub with a Alpine 500w RMS amp.
I set my gain to about 75 percent - Boost to about 20 percent.

Whenever I bumpee music to about 70 percent and up volume, my interior and exterior lights dim when the bass would kick. Kinda badly actually. So I figured give this a shot and wa-la.. It went away.

Out stock alternator gives out ~100 amps and when everything is running, the amp will ask for a lot of power when the bass notes come. Well the Alternators stock wiring through the car isn't meant or designed for added wattage. Much less an Amp asking for a lot of it on demand. So when the bass notes hit, the alternator will struggle and the volts on the battery will drop - hence the dimming lights that need 12 - 14 colts of power to stay lit.

And before you ask, capacitors are useless IMO. (Especially when I'm only running 500w RMS) Google that too :)

I hope this helps someone with dimming lights!
Wend i look to your photo, a have some questions.
Did you change your alternator with a V8 alternator? If you did put a bigger one change wire won't do any ting at all!!!
Why did you use a high level input modual to RCA wend your Alpine amp have them?
 

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So you did not use engine block to ground? I want to do the big 3 but I can not find my engine ground.. and putting my negative alt to negative battery seems a little odd.
 

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Hello!
I just wanted to share that I finished my BIG 3 Upgrade - AND NO MORE DIMMING LIGHTS!! Woohoo!!

If you don't knowxhwat the big 3 is - Google it and there will be a million videos and links and pictures..

Ok so I did mine with 4 gauge wire (because I had a ton of it laying around) and for my system - it's more than suffice.

I'm running a Alpine 500w RMS sub with a Alpine 500w RMS amp.
I set my gain to about 75 percent - Boost to about 20 percent.

Whenever I bumpee music to about 70 percent and up volume, my interior and exterior lights dim when the bass would kick. Kinda badly actually. So I figured give this a shot and wa-la.. It went away.

Out stock alternator gives out ~100 amps and when everything is running, the amp will ask for a lot of power when the bass notes come. Well the Alternators stock wiring through the car isn't meant or designed for added wattage. Much less an Amp asking for a lot of it on demand. So when the bass notes hit, the alternator will struggle and the volts on the battery will drop - hence the dimming lights that need 12 - 14 colts of power to stay lit.

And before you ask, capacitors are useless IMO. (Especially when I'm only running 500w RMS) Google that too :)

I hope this helps someone with dimming lights!
Nice install!
 

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Why not just run it with the existing wire that is under the intake manifold with some plastic around it to give it extra protection? would be a heck of a lot shorter run.
 

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Why not just run it with the existing wire that is under the intake manifold with some plastic around it to give it extra protection? would be a heck of a lot shorter run.
I have the same car and I'm probably going to do that, but if I had a strut bar I would honestly do the same as him because of how clean it looks.
 

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I have the same car and I'm probably going to do that, but if I had a strut bar I would honestly do the same as him because of how clean it looks.
Honestly lt is a wast of money. It a clean install but i don't see the purpose. If you don't install a biger alternator, change wire won't do any ting at all!!!


Me i install 3 Alpine amps for a total of 2600W RMS with gage 4 + wire from battery to 30 farads capacitor and use body for capacitor ground. The OEM ground wire is to small and - battery borne is not good.


 

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So you did not use engine block to ground? I want to do the big 3 but I can not find my engine ground.. and putting my negative alt to negative battery seems a little odd.
I haven't got service manuals to these yet but based on experience to find the factory ground spot on engine you follow the negative cable (the biggest one). It will come down and connect to the bottom of the battery tray (usually) then go from there to the engine near where the engine and transmission come together. On some cars the factory engine ground will be a flat bare braided wire.

The engine ground and the alternator ground are really the same thing because the alternator is mounted to the engine pretty securely. but this guy said he had a ton of wire but if you was trying to conserve a little wire you could do the positive alternator to positive battery, then for the ground start at the battery ground and just run a second bigger ground alongside the factory ground wire to the body and to the engine block







And to anyone arguing that doing this will not help if you dont upgrade your alternator when the theme of the post is he was having issues with his lights dimming, he did the "Big 3" upgrade and it fixed his light dimming problem, just like the "Big 3" has fixed so many other peoples issues with light dimming. Not only does the author of this guide explain what he did to fix the light dimming on his car it with pictures, he also explained why it works and he explained why he didn't just try to slap a cap on it. Before you insist that something that has already been done and has fixed the issue won't work you should check out this website. I learned a lot here....http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm


PS: your saying that there is no point in doing this without upgrading alternator, but then describe how you did it right after that and you say the ground wire is too small. Upgrading the battery to ground wire is 1/3rd of what the "big 3" is. but really....
http://www.bcae1.com
 
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