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:naughty: Finished lifting my truck finally, put the dakars in, and i'd have to day the ride is pretty smooth. I'll still have to lower the front springs a bit, since i haven't done it, but if you plan to get the 5100's and not lift the rear, just make sure your truck is leveled out with the back, i had my front end aiming up and it just looked funny. Post pictures soon. But the ride is smoother, not softer like my stocks setup. You don't keep bouncing.
 

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I can't wait to hear how your ride is, 05SCtaco. Post some pics and list all of the stuff you added on when you get a chance. Are you clearing 285's?
 

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Bilstein 5100 shock install

I thought I would start a new 5100 thread and highlight how the install went. Start to finish including clean up, torquing the wheels and checking the air pressure in took three hours working alone. At least 1-1/2 hours of that was struggling with the first front coil-over. Once I remembered to remove the front sway bar it went smooth as silk. So once you have the truck up on jack stands and have all four wheels removed, remove the front sway bar before anything thing else. From there it is pretty basic remove and replace. You don't need a ball joint tool, a couple of light taps on the spindle right next to the ball joint will pop it loose. Once you have the coil-over out you will need a spring compressor to remove the stock coil and replace it on the new 5100. I have the TRD-Sport and kept the stock springs. I set the 5100's one groove up from the bottom. That groove is supposed to be good for just under 1" of lift. The next groove up is 1.5". I opted to keep it on the low side since I do not plan to lift the rear. I simply want to level it out. Other than a spring compressor all you need is basic hand tools and a level work surface. The rears are very simple. Under 15 minutes each for those. The trick to them is attach the bottom of the shock first then compress the shock to slip to top in.

I was amazed at the physical difference between the Toyota Bilstiens and the 5100 Bilstiens. The stocks are tiny by comparison. Heading out for a road test soon. I will post up my measurements once I get some miles on and let it settle. So far I am happy with my choice. My truck won't be off-roaded so I hated to spend the big $$ for "Ho's". Hoping the dampening will be better than the stockers.

On a 1-10 difficulty scale I would rate this about a 3. It really is that easy. No need to pay the big money to have someone else do it. Get out there and turn some wrenches.
 

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road hazard
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is the bottom groove for stock level?

can you take pictures of your truck so we can get an idea of how it sits, leveled out with the stock springs and stock rear height?

thanks!
 

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I think you are going to want to move the clip to the second from the top. I have mine set on the second from the top, and the rear sits about a 1/4" higher than the front.
 

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The Thread Killer
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Thanks for adding that info about the swaybar, I hadn't seen it in other posts. I hope to be getting mine soon and any extra info helps.
 

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"Clean" the best mod.
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Nice! I'll probably end up getting these sometime. I'm wondering how it will combo with the 885's. mod posts require pics though;)
 

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I was able to put a few miles on it and the difference is very noticable. Big improvement over the stock setup. It is a firmer ride but not overly stiff by any stretch. On roads that made the old setup bounce the new setup takes it in stride. Very happy with it. Makes the truck feel new again.

The bottom grove is supposed to be stock ride height. Right now the truck is sitting a little higher in the front but I know it will settle down with more time and miles. I plan today to run more miles and see if I can find some rougher roads.

I orginally was going to go with the groove one from the top. Then I talked myself out of it. I decided if that ended up being too high I didn't want to take everthing apart to lower it down one knotch. If it ends up being a little low in the front I can live with that. Hoping to be able to put my front mud flaps back on now. Had to take them off to run the 285's.
 

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Mine is better than yours
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Remove the sway bar and the two large bolts that hold the knuckle to the lower control arm.

You'll have all the room in the world, and you don't have to seperate the TRE's.

Marc M
 

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I took the sway bar loose and moved it out of the way. Technically I did not remove it from the truck. The brackets were removed and I left the bar resting on the splash gaurd. The only other thing is taking the upper balljoint loose. Other than that I did not remove any other parts. There is plenty of room to work. Not sure why they removed so much in that picture above. Leave the ABS line and brake line in place. I used a couple of zip ties to keep the weight off of the lines. It really is an easy job.
 

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Cool, thanks. Like I said before " Hope to have mine in a few days. " My shocks are at the point where they need to be changed with almost 72,000 miles on them. Don't want to pay to have them done. Thanks again.
 

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crusty said:
Cool, thanks. Like I said before " Hope to have mine in a few days. " My shocks are at the point where they need to be changed with almost 72,000 miles on them. Don't want to pay to have them done. Thanks again.
What I have found in the past is that factory shocks are good for about 10k-25k max. Doesn't seem to matter if they are Bilstien's or other brands, they are flat out junk. My truck only has 8800 miles and I could tell the stock shocks were not what they were when new. Now it feels better than it ever did. Even if you are not looking for any lift I would recommend changing the stock shocks. The difference is huge.

One little tip I left out. When you go to break the ball joint loose pull the safety pin then loosen the nut several turns but do not remove the nut all the way. Place a jack under the lower control arm and raise it high enough so it just touches the lower control arm. Now tap the spindle right next to the ball joint. Once it pops free go ahead and remove the nut.
 

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The Thread Killer
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Are you talking about the balljoint that holds the swaybar? Just want to clarify so we're on the same page.

Edit...You say they only last 10 to 25,000?
 

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The ball joint I am refering to is the upper ball joint that connects the upper control arm to the spindle. It is a tapered fit so it takes a little persuation to get it loose. The end link on the sway bar will slide out once the nut is off.

My reference to shocks only lasting 10,000-25,000 miles was to the shocks that come on a vehicle new. Not the 5100's. I have seen it on many brands of vehicles. The manufacturer's (Toyota,Ford,Nissan,etc) send a bid request to shock manufacturer's to supply them with shocks. Typically the low bidder with a shock the meets spec will get the contract. The shock suppliers go as cheap as possible and still meet spec. That is one reason the 5100 Bilstien's look nothing like the TRD version. The lower shock body on my factory TRD shocks were completely rusted with only 8800 miles. Never been offroad and they do not use salt on the roads in Oregon. I did not have time to check them on a shock dyno however just compressing them to remove the old shocks and then compressing the new shock showed a huge difference.

Previous experience: My Lightning came stock with Bilstien shocks also. At 10,000 miles I pulled the shocks. I put them on our shock dyno and compared the to new replacements. At 10,000 miles they were off by an average of 56% compared to the new ones. That's just one of many examples I have encountered.
 

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Silver-Bolt said:
That is one reason the 5100 Bilstien's look nothing like the TRD version.
You don't think the 5100 is made with thicker wall tubing so they could cut grooves in the body to accept the c-clip for the adjustability??.

That is my take on it looking larger in diameter. Don't get me wrong, I have a set sitting in my living room so I can start experimenting with the front suspension.

I have the original 3" ToyTec spacer lift with top plate on the truck now. I have a second set of TRD Bilstein coil assemblies, a set of OME 885's, and a new hydraulic coil spring compressor sitting in the garage right now. It will need to be warm before I start playing around again with the front end.

I want the front end a tad lower than it is now because it's higher in the front even after 25,000+ miles on the lift. The heaviest thing that's been in the bed is a set of rims and tires.

Marc M
 

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Marc M said:
You don't think the 5100 is made with thicker wall tubing so they could cut grooves in the body to accept the c-clip for the adjustability??.

That is my take on it looking larger in diameter. Don't get me wrong, I have a set sitting in my living room so I can start experimenting with the front suspension.

I have the original 3" ToyTec spacer lift with top plate on the truck now. I have a second set of TRD Bilstein coil assemblies, a set of OME 885's, and a new hydraulic coil spring compressor sitting in the garage right now. It will need to be warm before I start playing around again with the front end.

I want the front end a tad lower than it is now because it's higher in the front even after 25,000+ miles on the lift. The heaviest thing that's been in the bed is a set of rims and tires.

Marc M
Not likely. The 5100's are about the same weight as the stockers. The size difference would mean the 5100 had a wall thickness of better than 1/4" which would weigh several times more than the stocker.

I did some freeway miles yesterday. I-5 near our house is heavily rutted. With the 285-60-18 tires the truck tends to tramline pretty bad (wander and follow the ruts). The 5100's seemed to have tamed that down quite a bit. Not near as bad as it used to be. Time and money well spent.
 

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crusty said:
I was looking at the photos from 05sctaco and he removed more then the swaybar,

do I need to go that far or can just the swaybar come out. I'm just tring make sure I don't [email protected]#k it up.
you can't put the new shock in without making more room, i just took the nuckle off, and my brakes because i ran out of jack stanks and lifts to keep the LCA up

If your going to use the 885 coil, don't raise it higher on the c clips from the bottom.
 

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Toyotanation
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Silver-Bolt said:
Not likely. The 5100's are about the same weight as the stockers. The size difference would mean the 5100 had a wall thickness of better than 1/4" which would weigh several times more than the stocker.

I did some freeway miles yesterday. I-5 near our house is heavily rutted. With the 285-60-18 tires the truck tends to tramline pretty bad (wander and follow the ruts). The 5100's seemed to have tamed that down quite a bit. Not near as bad as it used to be. Time and money well spent.
Check you alignment. Mainly your Caster! Have it set above 2* and your truck will be much more stable.
 

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5100 series install now vibration

o.k. here is the scoop I installed my 5100 series bilstein shocks and now have a vibration around 45 mph and up at around 1500 rpm. Here are the deatails this is on an 05 tacoma 4x2 with bridgestone revos and 16x9 moto metal rims. I have had the front end alidned not once but twice by 2 different shops. I have also had the tires balanced 3 times normal and one road force balance. I did the install at a local hobby shop with a friend. I did rip a tie rod boot and had it replaced with a oem one from toyota. the road force balanced out yet it made the vibration worse then it was before I had that done. I have had the dealership look at it and they say it is the aftermarket wheels and tires. 4 balance jobs tell me otherwise though. i have tried about everything I can think of. Everytime I take it somewhere it is the same thing 50.00 to 60 dollars and the results are the same. I have read through the threads alot of guys have done this with great results. The only thing I can maybe possibly think of is maybe during install I had to pull on the lower control arm to get the old one out and the new one in. Could this have disturbed a bushing I would not think so. Also it did not vibrate with just the tire and wheels on. All this started after the lift was installed. Guys I really need some help this is starting to get costly to trouble shoot. I am over at least 200.00 with balancing and alignments and still have no improvement. Any of you suspension experts out there please chime in!:confused:

thanks
 
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