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Which would you be interested in ordering?


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Trevor
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For the record the new Bilstiens are nothing more then a half decent shock with a reverse spacer lift incorporated. Basically lift is achieved the same way a coil spacer achieves lift, by preloading the spring thus the ride and performance will suffer the higher you go. The more lift you try to achieve the firmer the ride will become. I'm a big fan of Bilstein but this latest offering seems to be more focused on fiscal gain then performance application. If I purchased this shock I would keep it on the lowest clip setting and match it with a quality spring like Deaver, OME, or a quality set of Eibach's for lift.

As for Wheelers that's another first. I have had great service and have typically heard the same. Sucks SinCityTaco did not have such a good experience with them.
 

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I can say unequivocally the ride improvement with the Bilstein 5100 is markedly better than the stock shocks. They are better damped, and they work very well. I have them on my 05 Doublecab with the Alcan Add A Leaf in the rear and stock coil in front. I took the shell off and the back definitely firmed up. With a light load or when I have the shell on, which is most of the time, there is absolutely no comparison to the stock setup. Is it a set of DR's ....no....but it is not a true statement to state that the additional preload with the front shocks make the ride stiffer. They provide better damping and less body roll. Stock OEM shocks, even the TRD Bilsteins, aren't generally a very quality shock. I am pleasantly surprised at the value of the 5100's and they fit the bill from a cost friendly way to not compromise ride quality but allow running a more appropriate tire size. It's all good.
FWIW.
 

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Trevor
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My only point was a coil spring will become firmer the more preload is applied to it. It's simple spring science. As for fitting a larger tire, simply adding lift via traditional methods like spacers or coilovers does not provide any more room for a larger tire then stock. This misconception is frequently circulated because owners fail to fully cycle their suspensions. If they did they would quickly find out there is no difference from stock setup in terms of where the suspension travels to and it's range of motion.
 

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If you buy from the ebay site, you have the option to make a bid, the bilstein site tells you the tacoma #'s but you'll have to click on the application link to see it. To tell you the truth, it's better to make a bid on the shocks, i mean i got mine accepted for 265, and i'm sure anything reasonable the guy would take. and only cali pays tax on the sales and the shipping is free :) Got my OME 885 springs today, and there longer then i though. Get my shocks tomorrow :)
 

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Gil
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Thanks for all the replies. All were very informative and the voices speaking from actual experience were most reassureing. Might just pay to have the fronts put on if I can find someone to do it cheap.
Sounds like a good product for my purposes. I do not serious offroad (can't afford the repairs :). I just want a little lift in the front and a less bouncy ride. Any insights on vibration or alignment issues appreciated also.
Thanks
 

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05SCtaco said:
If you buy from the ebay site, you have the option to make a bid, the bilstein site tells you the tacoma #'s but you'll have to click on the application link to see it. To tell you the truth, it's better to make a bid on the shocks, i mean i got mine accepted for 265, and i'm sure anything reasonable the guy would take. and only cali pays tax on the sales and the shipping is free :) Got my OME 885 springs today, and there longer then i though. Get my shocks tomorrow :)
would love to see some installation pics when you do it!!!
 

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If you are just lifting the front, you should not have vibration issues. Vibration occurs when the driveline is not at the correct angle.
 

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confused

Adventure North said:
If I purchased this shock I would keep it on the lowest clip setting and match it with a quality spring like Deaver, OME, or a quality set of Eibach's for lift.
if you put on one of these springs with the bilstein shock wouldnt you still have to lengthen the shock?? or you would not get a lift correct?
 

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ba$$fan said:
would love to see some installation pics when you do it!!!
Ya i got my shocks today and my randyellis light bar, sooooooooooo bad ass! now i just need to find my stands,a hydrolic jack, and a shop with a spring compressor :) this is not my truck but pretty much the same thing except i have a skid plate too. shocks n spings install friday!

 

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You need a spring compressor in order to take the coils off the old setup, the coils are under pressure and i'm not gona just take the coil off and losten the bolts and have a few hundres pounds of spring pressure shoot at ma face :thumbup: Safety tirst! and vise versa to put the new springs on.
 

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First of all, i only got the rear done, should be a two hour job but i keep running into little complications, such as a broken torqe wrench grrrrrrrrrrrr. Rusted bolt, jack doesn't go high enough, and a lot of spent brain power. Ok here's the rear with 5100's
To start the rear is pretty simple once you figure out how to do it. Tools you will need

1 set of decent tools/sockets
1 set of jack stands.
1 hydrolic jack (included pics will show you what kind of jack you need) and your factory toyota jack.
1 torqe wrench with a 1/2 inch to 1/4 converter socket or the next one down, you might need to use your small socket heads and the torqe wrench for leverage.
1 needle nose pliers, vice grips or any kind of plier you can clamp with.
1 can WD-40, i didn't have any one me :( left it in my other garage.
1 set of allen wrenchs
2 sets of blocks for the front tires, or anything to make them not move while your working.

If you need me to explain i'll do it by pictures instead of writing a whole story.

You'll need to jack up your truck and place the jacks, use the factory jack if your jack doesn't go high enough.


Jack is up and place the floor jacks in place like in picture.


Lossen the wheel lugs next and jack up rear end with this kind of jack, in the middle of the pumpkin, it'll raise your tires up since the rear is STILL touching the ground!!!!


Take off tires since there already loosen and place somewhere. You'll have a lot of room to work. I placeed the tires next to the jack incase my truck moves. Ps. put blocks under the front tires!!!!!! I did that at the start.



Ok now while you have the rear end jacked up, you need to get your pliers/ vice grips/ because you need to grip the top of the old bilstein shock since if you try to just take the top nut off it just spins 360 degrees both ways. Grip the tip of the shock it has two flat sides and get a wrench to take the nut off. Spray some WD-40 on the nut, and grip the tip with pliers and wrench the nut off making sure your loosening, if the nut gets stuck like one of mine did, use the needle nose plier to grip BELOW the nut, and then wrench it off.







This is the stuck one, some rust or something, grip under the nut, you might have to use a flat head to get some leverage from the rubber bushing to expose a bit under the nut.


Now you will need to take the Bottom bolt off, torqe wrench is good for the leverage to take the nut off. Should come off fairly easy with it if you don't have a torqe wrench get a metal pipe and slide it over the socket wrence handle.







So here is what the old shock looks like next to the new one for compairison.




The lenght of the shock is the same as stock but as you can see it's a lot bigger since it's a beefier shock compaired to stock.


To take the shock off easier take your factory hydrolic lift, and stick it under the leaf spring to spread it away from the body. Like this (picture is sideways) make sure to let the pumkin down before you spread the leaf away from the frame.








So put the top of the new shock in first, and the bottom in next i'll sick because of the side rubber bushings! So you'll need to use a screw driver and get the holes alined with some leverage.



Now insert the nut back, it'll be a lil tricky, since the holes arn't fully allined, and now the socket wrench comes in again so you can just screw the nut back into place once you aline the nut enough. The shock bottome is really tight.





Now that the bottom is tightend, tighten the top nut. REMINDER!!!!!!! Remember to put the metal disk, and the rubber bushings like you saw/found them on the old shocks! Thick metal plate, rubber bushing, little metal plate, (shock mount), rupper bushing, metal place, nut.



To put the top nut on you need to thread the nut on with your fingers and then stick an allen wrench in the top part so the shock doesn't just spin around all kinds.



Now tighten that thing up, but not to much i only went as far as the old one.



Once both sides are done, put your tires back on, lower your rear pumpkin, and take the jack stands out.



I have picture of the truck, but the new shocks don't change ride height since there the same lenght, and i'm waiting on my OME Dakar buy that'll add 2.75 of lift. The ride with the rear is super smooth, the shocks absorb everything in the rear, and now i'll just have to wake up and do the front for everyone to see. I'm guessing the front 5100's are the same length as stock but just beefier like the rear shocks. i'll let everyone know what noctch i'm on with the 5100 fronts, and how the 885 springs work.
 

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I forgot, i plan to use locktight but after i install my dakars. If you plan to reuse blocks or add-a-leaf, then use some locktight, blue is ok, but red is rated for shock absorbers too, just read the back of the packaging. Goodnight TN.
 

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way cool i want a eary xmas :eek:
 

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Gil
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Nice job and very considerate of the ones left behind to document the effort. Watching for the fronts. Those are the ones that have me wondering if I want to do it myself. Thanks for posting this.
 

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I just got done doing the 5100's all around, and the ride is much improved over the trd shocks. I have the clip on the second from the top with non trd springs and the ride is great. It used to jar you on bumps, now it soaks them up.

05sctaco you made too much work for yourself on the rear shocks, I didn't even take the rear wheels off or jack up the rear to replace them.

I know your going to ask for the pics, but my cam batteries died. I started this morning at 8:45 and completd and cleaned up at 11:45. I just got back from a ride and I am not dissapointed with ride or ride heighth at all.

I'm going for lunch and batteries be patient with me.:whatwhat:
 
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