[Billzebub]

First I know this has been discussed.

2005 Tacoma 4x4 V6 SR5 DCSB.

My AC light began blinking recently and the A/C doesn't cool. I have done some research and replacing A/C clutch control relay, part no 90987-02028 or Denso equivalent seems to be a common fix.

I took it in to a mechanic who has done me well. He said the relays were fine and I needed to replace my controller. I didn't want to insult and ask him how he determined the controller needs replaced - especially because the A/C light is still blinking (functional) - but he told me the controllers were back ordered last time he checked and cost $600-$700.

All I do is oil changes, battery replacement, etc. I don't know too much about the electronics. The relay can be bought for $30 or so. I need a second opinion. Would be willing to spend $30 before I plop down $600 for something I might not really need.

Thanks!

 

[05Moose]

I don't recall if a blinking light is a true problem or just that the compressor won't kick on (like when out of refrigerant). Pretty sure mine didn't blink when it was low. 2005 and 2006 systems should be needing to be recharged. Regardless, there was a lot of troubleshooting advice in this thread:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/6...-2015/792169-air-conditioner-no-cold-air.html

 

[Billzebub]

He says the compressor and condenser are fine. No leaks. 64,000 miles. Defrost works which was my concern. Good for winter.

Thanks for reply.

 

[Taco'09]

First I know this has been discussed.

2005 Tacoma 4x4 V6 SR5 DCSB.

My AC light began blinking recently and the A/C doesn't cool. I have done some research and replacing A/C clutch control relay, part no 90987-02028 or Denso equivalent seems to be a common fix.

I took it in to a mechanic who has done me well. He said the relays were fine and I needed to replace my controller. I didn't want to insult and ask him how he determined the controller needs replaced - especially because the A/C light is still blinking (functional) - but he told me the controllers were back ordered last time he checked and cost $600-$700.

All I do is oil changes, battery replacement, etc. I don't know too much about the electronics. The relay can be bought for $30 or so. I need a second opinion. Would be willing to spend $30 before I plop down $600 for something I might not really need.

Thanks!

If this were mine I would call the mechanic back and ask specifically what "controller" he is talking about. Is it the panel with the buttons and knobs below the radio or the amplifier, or something else?? If the former, that thing is expensive but can be found used for a whole lot less. If it is the amplifier, it is "only" about $80-100 for the OEM part and is located behind the glove box and then slightly above and behind the air bag. A single 10mm nut holds it in place an IIRC it can be replaced without removing the dash.

 

[sharkinstx]

My '13 (44k miles) does that occasionally. I usually just turn the fan speed knob to off, and then turn it back. I have seen times where it would do it a second time, so I repeat the process.

I keep a little spiral notepad (a "squawk log") in the truck, and any time something like that happens (or like a hard start), I write down the date, time, mileage, and ambient temperature, and the problem, so I have it documented in case I need to go to the dealer with something.

 

[RTFM]

I keep a little spiral notepad (a "squawk log") in the truck, and any time something like that happens (or like a hard start), I write down the date, time, mileage, and ambient temperature, and the problem, so I have it documented in case I need to go to the dealer with something.

Damn good idea there. I need to do that for my whole life right now.

Phones
DVR
Computer
Blood pressure

Truck seems to be the only place I don't need it.

 

[Billzebub]

If this were mine I would call the mechanic back and ask specifically what "controller" he is talking about. Is it the panel with the buttons and knobs below the radio or the amplifier, or something else?? If the former, that thing is expensive but can be found used for a whole lot less. If it is the amplifier, it is "only" about $80-100 for the OEM part and is located behind the glove box and then slightly above and behind the air bag. A single 10mm nut holds it in place an IIRC it can be replaced without removing the dash.

He claims it's the panel below the radio with the AC light and knobs. I don't see how the light would work if the panel was bad. ?????

EDIT: I did see them used online for
$200 - $300.

Thanks for the info on the amplifier. I am going to take it to another shop and get a second opinion.

 

[Billzebub]

I usually just turn the fan speed knob to off, and then turn it back. I have seen times where it would do it a second time, so I repeat the process.

Thanks. Tried that. No dice.....

 

[RTFM]

He claims it's the panel below the radio with the AC light and knobs. I don't see how the light would work if the panel was bad. ?????

That panel is just a bunch of switches and resistors. If you select high fan you are shorting two wires I think.

You should be able to jump out every function on that panel and get the AC to work. Unfortunately, I can't tell you which ones right now to do what. Give me some time. Will try to post some clues tomorrow or Monday, swamped during the days, catching up on home projects.

 

[JBurdman7]

What?, the WHAT? Do hear your louvers moving around when you change the selections? If not I'd take that panel out and hit the innerds with "contact cleaner." If that doesn't work, but it is the controller, I'd re-wire that sucker to run on toggle switches before I'd spend even $100 on a "controller."

BTW It would be wise to include the current ambient dew point temperature, if known, in that "squawk log."

 

[oorex26oo]

You should get another opinion. I have a 07 v6 180k miles and had this problem about 2 years ago. It turned out that the clutch on the compressor had seized and broke free. I let mine go that way for about 6 months due to it being winter and not needing the a/c. So when i went to look into it, the plate on the front of the pulley was starting to brake off causing a build up of metal and rubber dust on the compressor. I don't suggest letting it go that long but if you notice any of that happen, that is where i would start. also IIRC with the motor running (a/c off and defrost off) the pulley should turn on the compressor but the center shouldn't. When the clutch engages the center will turn withe the pulley. I hope this help because even only running the defrost with a damaged compressor can cause damage to the expansion valve that is located in the dash.

 

[ukrkoz]

If your AC light is blinking check this first!
Just wanted to give a big thanks for this forum for helping me diagnose an AC problem I had on my 2001 Sequoia. Yesterday out of no where my AC light started to blink and the AC went out, one time i was able to get it to come back on but it only stayed on for a few minutes then went out again. After searching the forums I kept coming across the same thing, the flashing green light of death means your compressor grenaded! Well there was one post buried deep in the forum (apologize I forgot know the poster) said to check the ground wire on top of the compressor because his was loose. Sure enough I went out to the truck and found the ground wire screw was very loose, tightened it up and so far that has fixed the problem! I can only imagine what the dealer would have told me since there have been so many compressors on 2001-2003 sequoias to have failed. Not saying mine won't give up the ghost tomorrow, but to have averted a very expensive repair bill for now feels good! By the way that screw has no lock washer and looks to be very easy to come loose as it is only a machine Phillips head screw. Maybe put some lock tight or put a washer on it. By the way my sequoia is a 2001 with 141,000 miles on it and I have never turned the AC off, even in the winter I run the compressor, I have a theory that it keeps everything lubricated instead of drying out seals during the winter. I have never had any AC work done and it blows cold.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/86-sequoia-forum/401925-if-your-ac-light-blinking-check-first.html

Lot's of info to consider:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/search.php?searchid=20801026

 

[Billzebub]

You should get another opinion. I have a 07 v6 180k miles and had this problem about 2 years ago. It turned out that the clutch on the compressor had seized and broke free. I let mine go that way for about 6 months due to it being winter and not needing the a/c. So when i went to look into it, the plate on the front of the pulley was starting to brake off causing a build up of metal and rubber dust on the compressor. I don't suggest letting it go that long but if you notice any of that happen, that is where i would start. also IIRC with the motor running (a/c off and defrost off) the pulley should turn on the compressor but the center shouldn't. When the clutch engages the center will turn withe the pulley. I hope this help because even only running the defrost with a damaged compressor can cause damage to the expansion valve that is located in the dash.

Getting close to warm weather, I took it in for a second opinion today. Mechanic says the blinking AC light means the air compressor is bad. He mentioned metal flakes getting in the line if it "grenaded" but he hasn't seen that on a Tacoma. Been driving it for a little over four months like this using the defrost, heat etc. Been a very mild winter here in the Midwest. Hope I didn't damage anything.

Repair is a little under $900, but would exceed that if metal fragments invaded the lines. :frown:

 

[08TRDOFFROAD]

Blinking can also be caused be an over or under charge of refrigerant in the system.

 

[08TRDOFFROAD]

If it is indeed the control panel, you can get them on ebay most days for under $100.