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A couple of months ago I had a problem couldn't get the car out of park thanks to help from this fourm found out it was a blown fuse. Well have a new problem now replacing the fuse doesn't work anymore becasue they blow as soon as I put one in. I have no brake lights, tail lights or dash lights. I replaced the brake switch last night in the parking lot of an auto parts store thinking that was the problem nope still blowing the fuse. Any ideas?

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did you check all of your other fuses (replace any as necessary)? did you install the switch correctly? how many volts come off of your alternator when the car is on? check the fuse on the pos battery terminal to make sure its in good condition with no cracks.
 

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I'm pretty sure I installed the new switch correctly I tried to set it a the smame sitting as the one I took out. I will go look under the hood now and take the kick panel off on the inside of the car to check for any loos wires.

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Discussion Starter #7
Checked Under The Hood Everything Looks Fine. I Took The Kick Panel Off And Found Wires That Appeared To Be From An After Market Stero That Was Installed Before I Got The Car So Disconnected Them. Now The Brake Fuse Doesn't Blow But It's Burning The Tips Of The Fuse And I Can Hear The Shift Lock Clicking And The Fuse Is Sparking And Glowing. I Do Have Tail Lights Now But No Brake Lights Yet. Any Idea Where The Short Might Be I Can't Find Any Bare Wires Touching Anywhere.

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ohm out the wires, and run continuity tests from each brake light wires to and from the fuse block and the light bulb sockets.. hopefully you have an ohm meter, if not, invest in one...

:confused:
 

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You are still getting a short in the electrical system. I would access the wires connecting the aftermarket stereo and make sure they are connected properly. Also, check the wires leading to the rear brake lights for cut or punctured insulation. Chances are, whoever installed the stereo did not do it correctly.
 

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retiredat44 said:
ohm out the wires, and run continuity tests from each brake light wires to and from the fuse block and the light bulb sockets.. hopefully you have an ohm meter, if not, invest in one...

:confused:
This is your best bet. Do the continuity check like retired at said to and you will most likely find a grounded wire or one that has a crappy connection.
 
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Bitter said:
i bet they tapped the brake lights for the stereos illumination trigger (dims the stereo when your lights are on).
Wow, I never even thought about that. Way to be on the top of your game Bitter!:thumbup: :thumbup:
 

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We just ran across someone else that had a similar problem a few weeks ago. They disconnected the stereo and the dash control or accessory started working again. Someone wired another stereo wrong.
 

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Check the wiring from the trunk lid that is routed down the hinge. Apparently the flexing frays some of the wires and shorts out the brake light fuse.
 

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that's what happened to my corolla. I changed the brake light switch which was causing the brake lights to not light up when I depressed the brake pedal, but it was a corroded light bulb that accounted for my 3rd brake light fuse blowing. The corroded light bulb created a power surge which made the fuse for the 3rd brake light to pop every time.
 

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PWM,

If it to much problem for you or you can not find a short in brake lights, there is a simple way of fixing this. Use your ciragette socket as your 12 volts source. Cut the wires from your ciragette socket and connect this to your brake lights. This should work. The downside of this it that you can not use your ciragette socket to charge your cell phone or use for anything else. Hope this will help.

Monkey123
 
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