[insightbrewery]

Hey guys, so I have a new project: a 1999 ES300 w/243k miles. It has a lot of small problems, but I'm focusing on the cooling system now.

I have a brand new radiator, new cap, new hoses (inc. bypass hose), new clamps, new expansion tank sitting around. The top hose is leaking on both ends, but I'm not entirely convinced that's the only leak location (nothing else visible, hear no hisses).

I did a pressure test and it drops about 1 kPa/minute from the 98 the cap is rated for. Did this after noticing the top hose and tightening the worm-gear clamps the PO installed.

The real question: before I get to overhauling the obviously worn components (hoses and coolant tank, radiator may yet be OK), any tips on how to properly run a block test? I have one of those color-changing block testers. I get the engine up to temp, siphon out some fluid under the cap, seal the tube and start pumping the bulb, but I always end up sucking coolant in on both 1MZ's and 5S-FE's. Consequently I've never run a successful block test on one of these.

Few other details:

- oil is not milky
- old coolant tank had some sediment in it, but no more than 1MZ's and 5S's I've seen that had absolutely healthy head gaskets. Might be hose material, is black, does not smell like HC's, and all hoses are very worn
- I think the PO was running water to deal with the leak. Under the cap the liquid is pretty clear, but there are small deposits of...what looks like pink baby food. Does Toyota Red/Pink do that if it's old/very dilute? Or am I looking at possible use of head gasket sealers? I will take a pic tomorrow.

Thanks!

 

[Kingdom934]

Maybe this stuff might help. It's for the 3VZ but should be similar. This is what I thought of when I read your title.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...93-3vz-fe-overheat-head-gasket-how-check.html

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...3121-overheating-problem-kicking-my-butt.html

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...reservoir-solved-hg-failed-2.html#post3897733

 

[71Corolla]

The top hose is leaking on both ends,

New hoses and clamps and you still have a leak?

 

[guapoman2000]

Hum....

I don't use any pressure tester or bulb thingy.....................in the early morning, I start up the car and if I see anything that seems like Coolant exiting out of the Tail Pipe then, I know it is time to take the head Off on my 5S-FE.

Almost 500,000 miles and nothing and it runs like new.

I would pay attention to the Exhaust Tail Pipe to see if anything other than normal condensation (if the car sits outside) comes out!

 

[insightbrewery]

Maybe this stuff might help. It's for the 3VZ but should be similar. This is what I thought of when I read your title.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...93-3vz-fe-overheat-head-gasket-how-check.html

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...3121-overheating-problem-kicking-my-butt.html

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...reservoir-solved-hg-failed-2.html#post3897733

Cool, I'll read up.

New hoses and clamps and you still have a leak?

Well, I haven't put the new hoses and clamps (actually used ones from Pick-n-pull. I hate working with them but I find that the stock Toyota clamps almost always do better than worm-gear type clamps).

1. Pumped up pressure
2. Saw leak on engine side of upper rad hose
3. Released pressure, tightened clamps on upper hose
4. Re-pressurized, noticed dropping pressure 1 kPa/min
5. Checked pump and adapter (Mityvac kit...I've had shoddy stuff from them before), found nothing
6. Re-pressurized, still dropping

Hum....

I don't use any pressure tester or bulb thingy.....................in the early morning, I start up the car and if I see anything that seems like Coolant exiting out of the Tail Pipe then, I know it is time to take the head Off on my 5S-FE.

Almost 500,000 miles and nothing and it runs like new.

I would pay attention to the Exhaust Tail Pipe to see if anything other than normal condensation (if the car sits outside) comes out!

Already checked for the telltale plumes from the tailpipe...nothing other than water vapor and rusty exhaust smell :frown:. I guess my secondary motivation is to get the block tester to work on these engines. I can make it work on GM vehicles no problem, but they usually have a pressurized expansion tank where the fluid level is several inches below the cap.

 

[insightbrewery]

Huh, I just watched a Youtube vid where the guy just holds the expansion tank pipe to the bottom of the block tester, guess that'll solve my issues! I'll go test that tomorrow.

 

[Stillrunning]

I had serious overheat problems with violent coolant over flow into the overflow tank. Random overheat as well, but not always. I used the same exhaust gas tool and got no definite conclusion. I do know I had bubbles, looking into the rad top and boiling into the reservoir.

I also had no coolant in oil. The solution was just replace the head. That fixed everything.

If you're seeing bubbles, not need for that tool.

If coolant flows through the intake, that's another possible leak that won't be visible. it will produce thick smoke on startup and then clear as the engine warms.

Are you getting rough idle/missing on startup?

 

[guapoman2000]

Huh, I just watched a Youtube vid where the guy just holds the expansion tank pipe to the bottom of the block tester, guess that'll solve my issues! I'll go test that tomorrow.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YY2w2QvwAVo

Excellent find!

I will be investing on that Fluid myself!:laugh:

 

[Stillrunning]

Excellent find!

If you're seeing bubbles in the overflow tank you don't need a block tool to tell you it's exhaust.

 

[guapoman2000]

If you're seeing bubbles in the overflow tank you don't need a block tool to tell you it's exhaust.

Nonetheless, I like the product to make myself look like a MAD Scientist :laugh:

 

[BMR]

The real question: before I get to overhauling the obviously worn components (hoses and coolant tank, radiator may yet be OK), any tips on how to properly run a block test? I have one of those color-changing block testers. I get the engine up to temp, siphon out some fluid under the cap, seal the tube and start pumping the bulb, but I always end up sucking coolant in on both 1MZ's and 5S-FE's. Consequently I've never run a successful block test on one of these.

A few tips from someone who had the same problems running this test (one of those threads above is mine):

I tried pulling air out the overflow reservoir and never got a positive test. Can't explain why. Seems to me it should work.

Pulling air out of the radiator, I too accidentally pulled some coolant into the test fluid, which seems to foul the test, as it never showed positive.

It showed positive only when I drained a few inches of coolant out of the radiator and then performed the test. It took quite a few "pulls" on the squeeze bulb.

 

[Stillrunning]

It showed positive only when I drained a few inches of coolant out of the radiator and then performed the test. It took quite a few "pulls" on the squeeze bulb.

I too drained down the rad for my test. I did not get a dramatic change in fluid color. I could barely see any change - but a little. This did not seem to be a definitive test. I now think ANY color change means exhaust gas. However, I was doing this test in the early stages of diagnosis and was still not convinced I had exhaust gases in the cooling system because of the way the system was showing symptoms.

As stated it turned out a new head was the answer as this did not point to HG.

 

[insightbrewery]

I had serious overheat problems with violent coolant over flow into the overflow tank. Random overheat as well, but not always. I used the same exhaust gas tool and got no definite conclusion. I do know I had bubbles, looking into the rad top and boiling into the reservoir.

I also had no coolant in oil. The solution was just replace the head. That fixed everything.

If you're seeing bubbles, not need for that tool.

If coolant flows through the intake, that's another possible leak that won't be visible. it will produce thick smoke on startup and then clear as the engine warms.

Are you getting rough idle/missing on startup?

Hm, once I finish up in the V, I'll start it up and see if it bubbles. Definitely no rough idle/missing since I replaced the OCV's. I'll double check for the smoke on startup, thanks.

Excellent find!

I will be investing on that Fluid myself!:laugh:

Quick tip to cut down cost. I bought the tool at Napa for $50, but they're way cheaper on Amazon. Lisle even makes one that hooks up to engine vacuum instead of a klunky bulb.

Fluid: Autozone has the fluid available through their free tool rental program. So if you get it from them, then use it or pour it into a water bottle and return the empty container, they damage it out and you get your deposit back...free block testing fluid for life!

A few tips from someone who had the same problems running this test (one of those threads above is mine):

I tried pulling air out the overflow reservoir and never got a positive test. Can't explain why. Seems to me it should work.

Pulling air out of the radiator, I too accidentally pulled some coolant into the test fluid, which seems to foul the test, as it never showed positive.

It showed positive only when I drained a few inches of coolant out of the radiator and then performed the test. It took quite a few "pulls" on the squeeze bulb.

Hm, I was thinking that taking the cap off the overflow tank with no continuous connection to the rest of the cooling system (non-pressurized) would let any exhaust gases present escape very quickly to the atmosphere.

Thanks for the input. I mean, I was hoping this would go smoothly because the housing where the cap is is obviously the highest point of the cooling system, but somehow I always suck in coolant...

 

[insightbrewery]

Well, I'm late but here's a pic of the goop in the neck. What do you guys think?

 

[Kingdom934]

Well, I'm late but here's a pic of the goop in the neck. What do you guys think?

looks like very old toyota red/pink mixture and/or there was sludge in the coolant at one point due to lack of changing of green coolant.

Hows the hoses look like?

 

[insightbrewery]

looks like very old toyota red/pink mixture and/or there was sludge in the coolant at one point due to lack of changing of green coolant.

Hows the hoses look like?

Phew, that's a relief! I just thought of something, I have a '95 with a brand new head gasket and new cooling system, I'll test the Mityvac on that to get another point for its operation.

Nastiness on both ends of both hoses, reddish (old Toyota coolant like you said). I've got new Gates hoses and OEM clamps from the yard. I'll pull the hoses and run a hose through the radiator to see if it leaks and if anything comes out.

Then it's time to open the three block drains and fill everything up with nice, new Zerex Asian Vehicle coolant.

 

[Kingdom934]

Phew, that's a relief! I just thought of something, I have a '95 with a brand new head gasket and new cooling system, I'll test the Mityvac on that to get another point for its operation.

Nastiness on both ends of both hoses, reddish (old Toyota coolant like you said). I've got new Gates hoses and OEM clamps from the yard. I'll pull the hoses and run a hose through the radiator to see if it leaks and if anything comes out.

Then it's time to open the three block drains and fill everything up with nice, new Zerex Asian Vehicle coolant.

It's amazing how cars neglected for long still run rather okay.