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Discussion Starter #1
Well, i have my 1mzfe engine sitting in the warehouse as i collect parts for it. I think the first thing i was going to do was to bore out the engine and get bigger pistons, but this is where i get a little lost. How much can i bore out the 1mzfe engine? and after the boring is done, what size pistons would be good to get?

As the first step for the engine, what should i do first? (haven't done anything yet, so that's why i'm askin all these questions)
 

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Grenaded piston
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war0827 said:
I think the first thing i was going to do was to bore out the engine and get bigger pistons, but this is where i get a little lost. How much can i bore out the 1mzfe engine? and after the boring is done, what size pistons would be good to get?
I say anywhere from .020 - .040 over should be safe.

Not sure what the stock bore is on a 1MZ-FE, but your new pistons will be whatever the stock bore is + your overbore (ie: .020)
 

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The biggest I have really seen is .060. But I wouldnt push that. .030 is usually a good gap to get what you need.

If your going to tear out the internals (which is required to bore over), I would suggest upgrading while your at it. Get a forged crak, forged rods, and forged pistons. Maybe even high compression. It just makes more sense than tearing it apart again later.
 

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I would only bore it out just enough to clean up any scratches or anything in the cylinder walls. Maybe .20-30 at the most. I would recommend JE Pistons. Talk to John Noonan at JE he is pretty knowledgable guy. I have JE pistons in my bigbore motorycle engine. Of course its only 1270cc. Lol but it makes around 190 horsepower.. :)
 

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^
WHAAAA????

.20??? There would be no cylinder wall left!

Why would you bore to get out scratches. That's traditionally called howning (I can't spell). And can be done with as little as a hand drill attachment.

And you actually want scratches in the cylinder wall. That's what howning does. It scratches the cylinder walls, but in the proper pattern. Deep scratches, or ones running in a vertical pattern can cause oil leaks and other problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks for the replies guys. Any good websites where i can check out some forged pistons, rods, and crank?
 

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Grenaded piston
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Discussion Starter #8
thanks, 88 LE
 

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SmokingTiresV6 said:
^
WHAAAA????

.20??? There would be no cylinder wall left!

Why would you bore to get out scratches. That's traditionally called howning (I can't spell). And can be done with as little as a hand drill attachment.

And you actually want scratches in the cylinder wall. That's what howning does. It scratches the cylinder walls, but in the proper pattern. Deep scratches, or ones running in a vertical pattern can cause oil leaks and other problems.

.20 or .020. It was a typo. One doesn't want scratches in the cylinder walls. One wants a crosshatch pattern to aid in the rings sealing to the cylinder walls. Deep scratches were what I was talking about. When I bored out my my 71 2TC motor I needed to bore it .030 :) to get some deep scratches out of the cylinder walls. In any case only bore it the minimum you need to get a nice clean round straight bore.....
 

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^
You don't need to bore the minimum. You can push it to the edge. That's why you will see some major over bores on some muscle cars. They push it to the limits of keeping it in good running condition.

And cross hatches are still scratching. Which I mentioned.....



Either way, make sure you look at the size pistons you want first, then you can make sure they have a piston for the amount of overbore you wan.
 

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You know what my point was. Of course one wants crosshatch pattern on a new bore. I'm talking about scratches, gouges etc, not a crosshatch pattern....
 

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Xevuhtess77 said:
are there any downsides to boring?
Having to pull your engine, and then tear it all apart. And it's pretty expensive depending on where you go. A lot of places will give you the works (smooth the came, cleaning). But it costs you.

Unless it is done wrong, I can't really think of anything bad about having more displacement :)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
anybody have a figure around how much boring .030-.040 may cost?
 

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Idon't brag I mostlyboast
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^^and we're gonna take your word for it because...
 

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92v6camry said:
you guys are stupid you cannot bore out a 1mz. the only way is to get new sleeves.
You can't remove sleeves. And yes, they can be bored out. The reason for this is sleeves are not removeable.

What you are talking about is diesel engines. Diesel engines have removeable liners. But these are never used for increasing displacement.
They are only used for repair reasons. For say the case that a piston granades, or lubication fails and there are major amounts of friction that damage the liner.

So the moral of the story is, yes you can bore a 1mz, And stop calling people stupid when you don't understand it yourself:)
 

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92v6camry said:
you guys are stupid you cannot bore out a 1mz. the only way is to get new sleeves.

I am currently running 0.025" overbore on my 1MZ-FE. You are pretty stupid yourself for not researching before posting.
 

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SmokingTiresV6 said:
You can't remove sleeves. And yes, they can be bored out. The reason for this is sleeves are not removeable.

What you are talking about is diesel engines. Diesel engines have removeable liners. But these are never used for increasing displacement.
They are only used for repair reasons. For say the case that a piston granades, or lubication fails and there are major amounts of friction that damage the liner.

So the moral of the story is, yes you can bore a 1mz, And stop calling people stupid when you don't understand it yourself:)
Never heard of replacing stock sleeves? Try http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com

Darton offers dry and wet sleeves. Dry sleeves retain the lower half of the stock sleeve to eliminate coolant seepage. Wet sleeves replaces the entire sleeve for maximum strength and/or big bore apps.
 
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