I did a fair bit of searching, and like you didn't come up with anything that matches your two sets of colors. One thing I discovered: whatever two wires are the same color - that's your heater circuit, and just match same 2 colors to same 2 colors. (To verify, check that the resistance between them is about 6 ohms.)
The issue is the other two wires, which are different from each other and different from the 2 wires of same color. Those are your signal wires, and one is pos and the other neg. To my surprise, it looks like on many (but not all) of the sensors, the black wire is positive. That seems crazy to me, but that's what this chart from 4crawler shows:
What I would do is get a voltmeter on the two wires of unlike color, both on the old sensor and on the bosch, and try to match the polarity. You're looking for a signal between 0 and 1 volt. If you're not getting a signal, try heating the tip of the sensor with a propane torch - holding it so the sensor is an inch or so beyond the visible flame.
Bosch sensors apparently work fine; the issue on our trucks is that the bosch sensors are short and stubby, and do not protrude into the exhaust stream like the densos or ngks, and as a result they may not switch as quickly. The computer might throw a lean code (25). If you search yotatech you'll find several examples where a new bosch sensor was the problem causing codes and poor running, and replacing it with a denso fixed the problem. 4crawler, a guy who usually knows what he's talking about, is one of the ones who advises against using them. On the other hand, a couple of the members say they're using the sensors with no problems, so hopefully you'll get lucky.
Be sure you make very good electrical connections, since the voltage we're talking about is so small (less than a volt). Even with new wires, the distance of the wire itself will cause a voltage drop. With our older, more corroded wires, the voltage drop can be significant. Making a poor connection will guarantee the sensor won't work. Soldering the connections would probably be best.
The proper sensor voltage when the truck is running with perfect fuel/air mixture is .45 - .5 volt. Lean running produces less volts - down to .2 or even .1 volts. Rich mixtures generate .6 to .9 volts. Since you're dealing with such low voltages, it wouldn't take much corrosion or bad connections to reduce .6 volts at the sensor to .4 volts at the ecu. In such a case, the computer would think the engine were running lean, and would inject more gas, when in fact the engine was already running too rich, and the ecu would make matters worse.
I guess if you get things connected and the motor's running alright and you're not getting codes, keep an eye on the tailpipe and plugs to make sure they're not carboning up. If you do see signs of rich running, the wiring between the sensor and ecu may be the problem.
Good luck. When you do finally sort out what wires go to what, please post back with which colors match to which so future searchers might find something.