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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,
I have a question that I do not think has been covered specifically in past postings —as far as I can tell. I have a 2010 Matrix S AWD 2.4L. The question in short is does the ABS/TSC system require any special bleeding techniques?
More background info: I’ve owned the car for a year and a half and when recently checking the brakes saw that I’m going to have to replace the rear pads and rotors soon. When I’ve done that on other cars I have done a bleed at the same time and never had a problem. But None of those cars had the ABS/TSC system as on this Matrix. I would think that theoretically the ABS would not be affected but not sure regarding the TSC. Or am I being over concerned?
I thank you for your feedback!
 

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08 Toyota Camry 2AZ-FE R9K Tuned
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Unless it is a hybrid, then bleeding brakes is no different whether it has ABS or not. Start from the furthest then work your way in closer. RR, LR, FR, FL. You should be fine doing it normally, if you want to follow the official Toyota method you will probably need a TechStream.

DOT 3 < DOT 4 < DOT 5.1
I used DOT 5.1 when I bled my brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for you answer! I should have written Traction Control System instead of TSC.
Is it better to bleed farthest to nearest in reference to the ABS unit or the master cylinder (as I’ve always done it)?
 

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Thank you for you answer! I should have written Traction Control System instead of TSC.
Is it better to bleed farthest to nearest in reference to the ABS unit or the master cylinder (as I’ve always done it)?
I would do furthest to closest at least until someone else chimes in.
 

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Right, for normal bleeding no need. To complete flush out all fluid, a scan tool (such as TechStream) will be needed to activate the solenoids and pump. I wonder if dealer techs actually do the full procedure myself.
 

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In my opinion, the only time you need to worry about the special technique for bleeding the abs is if you get air in it. Otherwise bleed the system as you always have done it and that new fluid will work it's way into the rest of the system.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the replies. Sounds like nothing different needs to be done than I’ve done in the past on other cars. My experience is that the dirtiest fluid is at the calipers anyway.
 

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I want to bleed my brakes on my 2009 Corolla S Turbo before my trip this April. Time for new rotors, pads and brake fluid.
 

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BTW, I always use toyota brake fluid. It's not that expensive and has a "lubricating polymer" that other brands don't have. My Highlander had a recall a while ago on the master cylinder because an o ring would leak if you used regular brake fluid that didn't have it. That Highlander got about 245,000 miles out of the front calipers and the rears and master cylinder are still going strong at 271,000 with brake fluid changes every 80k to 100k miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Mgeorge
Thanks! That’s good to know. Is the Toyota OE fluid compatible with the DOT 3 that will partially remain in my lines and ABS?
 

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Yes, the toyota oe fluid is compatible with regular DOT 3 fluid, I had actually used some on my Highlander years ago before I knew about the toyota fluid and it's been fine.
 

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DOT 3 < DOT 4 < DOT 5.1
Good < Better < Best
Low boiling point < Medium boiling point < High boiling point
DOT 5 can NOT be used as it is a different formula and can potentially wreck the hydraulics. DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 can all be mixed though I would prefer to just stick with either 3/4 or just 5.1. Price wise, they ain't that expensive.
 

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Toyota called it special polymers. I think it was just cheap rubber parts the bean counters specified. So now they recalled the master cylinders, and now aftermarket fluids are no problem. Wink, wink.

I use Valvoline DOT 3/4 synthetic brake fluid. It's a Low Moisture Activity fluid. Excellent stuff.
 

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I agree the bean counters specified cheap rubber parts. However those cheap parts worked fine if you stuck with toyota's brake fluid. It was when you switched to regular aftermarket brake fluid that one of the seals in the master cylinder would start leaking. Therefore I figured the "special polymers" actually do help and will benefit the rest of the moving parts in the brake system.
Of course, that doesn't mean there aren't other excellent fluids out there that will give similar or even better results.
 

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AFAIK, the thing is that in the U.S. at least, DOT SAE J1703 requires all brake fluids (even different grades like 3, 4, and 5.1 as mentioned) to be fully compatible. If Toyota was experiencing that problem around Gen 5 (and not in Gen 4 or Gen 6), then it's just manufacturing/design defect. No two ways about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
One more question if I may: what kind of brake shim grease have you all used? Toyota specifies their oe moly that apparently comes in a small in use packet. Am I good to go with any moly grease? Anyone have trouble with an aftermarket brand?
 

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At this point, I only grease the caliper guide pins and I either thoroughly clean or replace the shims.
Keyword is "read the description" (for anyone hating on what others products people use)
"Compatible with most plastics and rubbers used in Disc Brake Caliper systems"
"For metal-to-metal contact only"
"For metal-to-metal contact only"
 
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