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Discussion Starter #1
So I have a 2002 corolla ce which is pretty old and I have experienced many crazy things with it.(resonator and muffler fell off during road trip due to the rusted muffler strap) However, none of those can compare with what happened today. My brake failed completely while I was driving home. I just feel so lucky that I was not on highway but driving about 30. I managed to stop the car by pumping the brake all the way to the bottom repeatedly to get tiny deceleration every time.

It happened all of a sudden today but it reminds me of something last summer. My brake light was on and I checked the brake fluid level which was just below low. I added some brake fluid then checked under the car and found some leak at the place where the rusted brake lines start to split to both wheels in the rear.(close to the tank) The light went out after the fill and the car just kept running until this time.

So my guessing is the rusted brake line is shot which leads to the pressure loss of the brake system. I checked my brake fluid level and it's pretty much leaked out. I'm thinking to replace all of the old brake lines of this car since they are pretty rusted and I don't want this kind of experience any more.

Is there anyone here who has done this before? I searched some similar cases and there are people doing this either with oem pre-bent brake lines or general brake lines and bend them by themselves. What are the specs of the line if I want to bend it by myself? I searched autozone and their matched products have diameters from 3/16" to 5/16" with adapters already on them. What should be the right size? Any other things I should look for?
 

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Not the same gen corolla, but I suddenly lost brakes once at 155k miles an had to pump to stop. Took my car in, and they asked if I had recently driven on gravel (I had). Ended up being a small piece of gravel caught in the caliper.

If you have leaking lines, please get them fixed and don't risk yourself and others on the road. It's not worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Vangm25 and Soundman88! I just have a few more questions. What brake line size and material should I go for? How long would be enough for the entire car? I saw some 25ft brake line spools come with sets of fittings, are those good?
For the master cylinder, should I get a new one or just make sure it's not leaking cuz I found no leak there and the car was running fine with current one.

I'm definitely not gonna drive cars with any suspicious leakage in the future. Lesson learned.
 

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08 Toyota Camry 2AZ-FE R9K Tuned
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I'd go with Raybesto's. However I forget what the size of the line you need is. Keep in mind, you will need to attempt to reuse certain fittings if you are able to when you remove the old brake lines. The "in-betweens" don't matter because you are connecting a line to a line. It's those rubber brake lines that you need those specific fittings for.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you Vangm25 and 75aces for your prompt reply! I will probably just replace the master cylinder for safety. As for the fitting, if I'm reusing the old fittings from the brake line, I believe size matters because the side of the fitting without thread that holds the brake line will have to put pressure on the flare right so there won't be leaks and the diameter of the flare should be somewhat related to the line diameter(I guess). I might just purchase some fittings that go with the line to make sure I can get the job done without more hassle after installation.
 

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Thank you Vangm25 and 75aces for your prompt reply! I will probably just replace the master cylinder for safety. As for the fitting, if I'm reusing the old fittings from the brake line, I believe size matters because the side of the fitting without thread that holds the brake line will have to put pressure on the flare right so there won't be leaks and the diameter of the flare should be somewhat related to the line diameter(I guess). I might just purchase some fittings that go with the line to make sure I can get the job done without more hassle after installation.
Correct, you would need the end fitting to go back into the rubber brake hose. It's where you connect your old metal hose to your new hose that you can use whatever thread fitting you want. Just remember, no compression fittings.
 

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Why didn't you use your parking brake to stop?

You can also get new brake lines from Toyota, so you don't need to mess with bending lines and doing all that stuff, and not worry if you did it correctly. I guess it depends on what your time is worth and how much you trust your work.
 
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Why didn't you use your parking brake to stop?

You can also get new brake lines from Toyota, so you don't need to mess with bending lines and doing all that stuff, and not worry if you did it correctly. I guess it depends on what your time is worth and how much you trust your work.
As long as the fittings are sealed and the brake line is as bent & routed as the OP wants it to be, there won't be issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Why didn't you use your parking brake to stop?

You can also get new brake lines from Toyota, so you don't need to mess with bending lines and doing all that stuff, and not worry if you did it correctly. I guess it depends on what your time is worth and how much you trust your work.
Yeah it make sense to use the parking brake but at that moment the first thing came to my mind was air in brake system which according to the research I did when I was learning how to bleed the brake can be sloved by pumping the pedal hard several times. Anyway, I was lucky to avoid accident under that situation and I'll get everything right this time.

The reason not to use the oem pre-bent lines is pretty much just about money. Might save some since I'm planning to change ALL the brake lines that's rusted for safety concern. I've learned a lot since I bought this old corolla. From the every basic things such as oil/trans fluid/brake pad changes to valve cover gasket change, condenser swap, ac system recharge and cutting the exhaust pipe to put on new resonater and muffler. I think I should be fine to bend and flare some lines and save me some money. College student here, time and effort is all I have right now.:D
 

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Yeah it make sense to use the parking brake but at that moment the first thing came to my mind was air in brake system which according to the research I did when I was learning how to bleed the brake can be sloved by pumping the pedal hard several times. Anyway, I was lucky to avoid accident under that situation and I'll get everything right this time.

The reason not to use the oem pre-bent lines is pretty much just about money. Might save some since I'm planning to change ALL the brake lines that's rusted for safety concern. I've learned a lot since I bought this old corolla. From the every basic things such as oil/trans fluid/brake pad changes to valve cover gasket change, condenser swap, ac system recharge and cutting the exhaust pipe to put on new resonater and muffler. I think I should be fine to bend and flare some lines and save me some money. College student here, time and effort is all I have right now.:D
If you are able to, rent a hydraulic flare tool instead of a physical flare tool. Your day will be much easier.

  1. Cut line
  2. Flatten your cut
  3. Clean your cut of metal debris
  4. Insert fitting
  5. Use hydraulic brake flare tool
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If you are able to, rent a hydraulic flare tool instead of a physical flare tool. Your day will be much easier.

  1. Cut line
  2. Flatten your cut
  3. Clean your cut of metal debris
  4. Insert fitting
  5. Use hydraulic brake flare tool
Thanks for the tips. If I may ask where can I rent one of the hydraulic flaring tool? I found the manual flaring tool and bender on autozone Rent-A-Tool which I have benefited a lot from. I know that the use of hydraulic ones can help to make the force even so flares will less likely to have cracks or distorted edges but it seems difficult to find a place to rent the hydraulic one.
 

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Thanks for the tips. If I may ask where can I rent one of the hydraulic flaring tool? I found the manual flaring tool and bender on autozone Rent-A-Tool which I have benefited a lot from. I know that the use of hydraulic ones can help to make the force even so flares will less likely to have cracks or distorted edges but it seems difficult to find a place to rent the hydraulic one.
If you can rent one, try to. If not, then you should be fine. Just take your time.
 

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Check the master cylinder as well. But if one line burst might want to do all of them. I recommend nicopp brake line very strong and won’t rust as fast.
 

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Also check your brake hoses for dry rot too which often happens too with age
 

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Thanks for the tips. I'm checking out the "Copper-Nickel Alloy Brake Line Kit" on amazon which looks legit to me. Will give my brake system a complete check this time.
Be careful I know a lot of people who have gotten knock off car parts on Amazon. That nicopp line is definitely worth giving a look though it’s all we used at my dealership when I worked there I believe they sell it at the parts places too. But if you do get the kit from Amazon let us know how it does.
 

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