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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
planning on changing the brake lines (to steel braided lines) and installing speed bleeders in the spring, have a few questions:

would i be better off draining all the fluid entirely to work on the lines then trying to do the job with the fluid full? is this not recommended? seems to me it'd be a lot easier and cleaner if all the fluid was out already:lol: i know it would take a lot more new fluid to fully bleed the system but it shouldn't be too bad with the speed bleeders.

also, any recommendations on brake fluid? is synthetic better or is it just a waste of money? any recommended brands?

thanks in advance!
 

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04 CAMRY LE
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I would think it would be better to drain..then work on what you needed, then refil with brake fluid. Honestly, sythetic would be better, if you rarelt eve change out your fluids. If you do it on a regular basis, you wouldn't give non synthetic time to break down. So really it just depends how often you plain on draining and refilling your brake fluid. But this is only my opinion. BTW who are you getting your brake lines from?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Webb26 said:
I would think it would be better to drain..then work on what you needed, then refil with brake fluid. Honestly, sythetic would be better, if you rarelt eve change out your fluids. If you do it on a regular basis, you wouldn't give non synthetic time to break down. So really it just depends how often you plain on draining and refilling your brake fluid. But this is only my opinion. BTW who are you getting your brake lines from?
hmm... i guess it stands to reason that if i use synthetic, i probably won't have to change the brake fluid as often. i have already got my brake lines from technafit on the group buy several months ago.
 

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2002 Camry
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You are taking things apart so now might be the time if you really want synthetic fluid. But you also have to take apart the caliper and master cylinder to clean them too, i am sure you know the two fluids are completely incompatible.

I'd look at the costs and benefits of each fluid, regular brake fluid is cheaper and generally good enough for most of us. Synthetic does not absorb water but it does absorb air...which may make it harder to bleed and to keep a firm pedal all the time, something that would really bug me!
If i drove in lots of hills in hot weather etc. and had experienced brake fading anytime more than once, i'd probably go with the synthetic for the higher boiling point. Otherwise, it may not be worth it to do the switch.
 

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Not sure if changing to silicone is as easy as one time claimed. It appears that to do a decent change over; the system must be flushed and the seals may not be fully compatible with silicone. Add speed bleeders and change it every couple of years.
 

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First of all, I think some of you may be confusing silicone brake fluid with synthetic brake fluid.

Silicone brake fluid is not compatible with conventional brake fluid. Its mainly used in show cars where the paint job is worth more than a small third world nation and a drop of regular brake fluid will ruin it.

Lately, Valvoline has replaced their regular DOT4 standard auto-parts-store-shelf brake fluid with some synpower (DOT5, I think?) stuff. This stuff is totally compatible with older brake fluid, and its actually a pretty good fluid (I use it in cars I take to the track). The DOT 3/4/5 refer to the capacity of the brake fluid to reach a certain temperature before boiling. Putting a fluid with a higher boiling point in a car that doesn't need it will not hurt it.

Now, if I were in your shoes, I would use the Valvoline stuff off the store shelves. Why? Because after the system is completely dry and you put everything back together, its probably going to be a bit of a bitch to bleed, especially if its your first time. Air bubbles will stick to the insides of the lines and the rough surface of the insides of the calipers, and you may not get all of the air out on your first bleed attempt. First time you have to get some specialty fluid thats not available at a parts store, you're hosed. Run out of fluid while bleeding? Hosed. Realize something isn't sealing and have to take it apart (drain all the fluid) and start over? Hosed.

Granted, the install may go just fine and you'll only need one bottle of the stuff, but since the valvoline works extremely well and is available locally, its a no-brainer for me. Hope it works out!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thanks for the advice guys! yeah, i definitley don't plan on changing to silicone, because its probably more expensive and more of a hassle than its worth. and i mentioned synthetic, thinking about the valvoline stuff... which i bought to top off my dad's brake fluid. its compatible with DOT 3/4... not sure if its labeled as DOT 3/4 or DOT 5 though.
 

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While on the subject of brake fluid, i have a question. Back in the good old days I could get a new car and it would have nice, clean and clear fluid and within a pretty short time it would darken and the first time I needed to bleed the brakes for some reason I would flush out a quart or so of some really filthy stuff. But more recently I've noticed that the fluid just doesn't turn to the old tar color so quickly. Maybe not for several years. Have they changed the fluids, the seal material, or all of the above? Just wondering here. Thanks.
 

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I got some new pads and 1 bottle of Valvoline SynPower fluid. Should I get another bottle to get a full bleed and flush? Also, what order should one start with bleeding? On my WRX, it's best to start with the passenger front, then driver rear, passenger rear and then driver front. Now for my wife's 04 Camry?
 

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06 Camry LE 2AZFE A5
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If you're working on the brake system you should have a manual. I can't stress that enough when you're not familiar enough to do it without asking questions. Asking is good, but not all of the responses are always correct and the brake system is much to important.

First, suck all of the fluid out of the master cylinder. Then refill with fresh fluid. That way the fluid now going through the system is clean. It doesn't make sense to push the old/dirty/contaminated fluid all the way through the brake system.

After you install your new hoses let the brakes gravity bleed for a while. Gravity bleeding is not effective to completely bleed the system but sure does save some work.

I've used synthetic brake fluid for years and have never had any problems. Most (I believe all) are compatible with regular fluid. Check the container to be sure.
 

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TRD VVTi said:
If you're working on the brake system you should have a manual. I can't stress that enough when you're not familiar enough to do it without asking questions. Asking is good, but not all of the responses are always correct and the brake system is much to important.

First, suck all of the fluid out of the master cylinder. Then refill with fresh fluid. That way the fluid now going through the system is clean. It doesn't make sense to push the old/dirty/contaminated fluid all the way through the brake system.

After you install your new hoses let the brakes gravity bleed for a while. Gravity bleeding is not effective to completely bleed the system but sure does save some work.

I've used synthetic brake fluid for years and have never had any problems. Most (I believe all) are compatible with regular fluid. Check the container to be sure.
I'm familure with what is inolved and how to flush and bleed. I was wonder if there was specific sequence or order in which to bleed/flush. Perhaps a manual would tell me this, but I figured someone would just know. but I guess not.
 
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