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Discussion Starter #1
hello again people im the one who had the problem with bleeding brakes and still not fixed and has been two weeks without driving :( i was wondering besides the bleeders having air pockets "can the brake lines have air pockets too?" because beofre i knew about how to bleed the brakes i thought you take off the brake lines but you dont so i did and thast why im asking if its possible for them to have air pockets (brake lines) and if yes wouldnt be reasonable to do the same thing like i do to the bleeder screw and stuff have someone pump keep it stead then once the pedal is on the hold i screw back the line in and while its draining the fulid just wait for it to be a steady stream cuase after i bled all the brakes tested it out and my rear brakes works but on my two fronts i have to pump the brakes for them to trigger :confused: got new brake pads installed and a new front pass caliper installed also please tell me whast wrong. thank you on all your feedbacks
 

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Pochacco Owns Me
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bleeding your brakes get the air bubbles out of the brake lines. try bleeding your front brakes again
 

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Grenaded piston
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bluerogue85 said:
i was wondering besides the bleeders having air pockets "can the brake lines have air pockets too?"
1. The air pockets are in the brake lines, not in the bleeder screw.

2. The purpose of the bleeder screw is to bleed the brake lines of trapped air.

wouldnt be reasonable to do the same thing like i do to the bleeder screw and stuff have someone pump keep it stead then once the pedal is on the hold i screw back the line in and while its draining the fulid just wait for it to be a steady stream
Uhh.. No..

The brake lines have to be attached before you can bleed the brakes.
 

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There is actually another way of bleeding that is working fine as well (if ou want to try another ...) :

Still working on the furthest brake from the master cylinder first, first of DO CLOSE all your braking lines. Make sure to have your master cylinder full of fluid and top up as soon as it empties. Just open the bleeding screw, wait some time (30 seconds up to a minute possibly less) untill you see the liquid dripping slowly from it, just let it drop for a few seconds and then close it (note I didn't say to touch the pedal or anything else) : your first brake is done. Do that way for the remaining brakes. Once everything is done for the four wheels just do it again for all of them just to make sure : sometimes it happens that a few bubbles can stay all the same. Remember to top up regularly your master cylinder to keep it full for the whole operation (and keep the cap opened for the whole operation).
This is actually another way to do which is less harmful for your master cylinder : pumping too much or too fast your pedal to bleed can brake it. BTW if after having bleeded it all correctly your pedal is still not firm, it could mean you broke your master cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
hmm everytime i have to trigger my front brakes i have to pump my brake pedal? why? whats wrong? my rears work what can i do? can i do nething with the brake lines cuase i dont want to have to bleed again.. :(
 

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Grenaded piston
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bluerogue85 said:
hmm everytime i have to trigger my front brakes i have to pump my brake pedal? why? whats wrong?
Are you pushing on the brake pedal with the engine not running? If so its normal that it takes a couple pushes on the brake pedal for it to become stiff.

Everytime your pushing on the brake pedal the piston in the caliper is filling up with fluid. Anyways it takes a few pumps for it to fill up.

When the engine is not running theres no vacuum to the brake booster. The brake booster applies pressure to the master cylinder. However when the engine is off the brake booster does not function, so your not getting any assist from it.

Anyways start the car so the engine is running, then try pressing on the brake pedal. It should feel normal.

can i do nething with the brake lines cuase i dont want to have to bleed again.. :(
No.

How many times I gotta tell you to leave the brake lines alone? :disappoin

You can't bleed the brakes with any of the lines disconnected. It don't work that way.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
do i bleed with my engine on or off? and i just got done doing that thing one person said about letting it just drip for a min or so then closing then to the next one...now what? :( :confused:
 

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I did mine by pushing the caliper piston all the way in. Put something in the caliper so the piston can't get allthe way out, press the padel till the piston is out. Repeat a few time and do all 4 caliper. I did that when I paint the caliper and its was on stand.
I had to do it that way cause the breeder screw was broken :(
You have to watch out cause brake fluid may over flow when you push the piston all the way in. A piston pushing tool with the screw handle is great to push it in and use as a stop ;)
 

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Grenaded piston
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bluerogue85 said:
do i bleed with my engine on or off?
Off.

and i just got done doing that thing one person said about letting it just drip for a min or so then closing then to the next one...now what? :( :confused:
I dunno about that method of bleeding brakes.

I've always used the pump brake pedal and open/close bleeder screw method.
 

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Is there someone who can help you do this? No offense, but you really shouldn't be driving the car if there is air in the system. Plus it's a two person-job (one to press-and-hold the pedal on command, the other to open and close the bleeder valve at each wheel. Don't forget to keep the master cylinder topped up or you will suck air in and have to start all over again...:(

I recently flushed all of the brake fluid from a 1996 Ford truck. It took two big bottles of brake fluid and a whole lot of "press-hold...OK, release".
 

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bluerogue85 said:
hmm everytime i have to trigger my front brakes i have to pump my brake pedal? why? whats wrong? my rears work what can i do? can i do nething with the brake lines cuase i dont want to have to bleed again.. :(
My technique is just one technique among others. You can choose this one or another, just the one you feel the most comfortable with and that you are sure to understand.
To do this well you should first understand how the system works :
Imagine a big reservoir / aquarium placed on a table. At its base three pipes are leaving from it with at their ends three taps. Just fill in with water, as you will surely understand air will be trapped in the pipes, open and engage pump (or not engage) tap 1 and you will see air leave and a few seconds later water, do this with line 2 and you will have the same. You won't be able to do this with line 3 as it is too high.
This system is exactly the same as your braking system : The reservoir is your reservoir, the pump is your pedal + master cylinder, the pipes are your lines and the taps are your bleed nipples. You will understand that it is important to frequently top up with fluid as you open one of the taps otherwise air might come again in the pipe(s). You will also understand that air will stay in heights that is why you won't be able to bleed line 3 and why your bleed nipples are always in the upper part of your cylinders, you also shouldn't do anything with your brake lines but rather your bleed nipples ONLY.
You shouldn't have any problem at all if you follow one of the techniques you have been given. Jut do it calmly and quietly. Once you have finished you can start the engine and see how it is after having pumped a few times : the pedal should then be normal. If it still it isn't a few bubbles (only a few then and that is not very frequent) can still be trapped in the lines so you can bleed again just to make sure. If it still doesn't work (provided you did it well) your master cylinder might be dead : your pedal would then go down to the floor and you wouldn't brake at all.
Good luck, be patient and... don't mess up with anything ;)
Sorry I didn't manage to insert my explanatory picture...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
is it possible to bleed my brakes without a clear tube i mean just take the bottom part of the caliper and let it drip and pump and usuall untill i think the air pockets are gone????? then keep the pedal floored and then close the screw again. please tell me that can work so my front brakes will work cuase i dont want to have to think that my master cyl is broken cuase like i said i keep on having to pump the brakes for the front brakes to wirk and i dont want that i just want to be able to press it and then it will be one steady push...
 

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Grenaded piston
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bluerogue85 said:
is it possible to bleed my brakes without a clear tube i mean just take the bottom part of the caliper and let it drip and pump and usuall untill i think the air pockets are gone????? then keep the pedal floored and then close the screw again.
You can bleed the brakes without a clear tube, but your gunna have brake fluid dripping and squirting everywhere.

And you can't see the air bubbles without a tube.

The proper method is to attach a clear tube to the bleeder screw. Other end of the tube goes into a clear container with some brake fluid in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
ok so if im going to do it without the tube how long should i pump for? untill my assist see the fluid coming about as a direct stream like your taking a leak or something? and why do you have to have brake fluid in the container?
 

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bluerogue85 said:
ok so if im going to do it without the tube how long should i pump for? untill my assist see the fluid coming about as a direct stream like your taking a leak or something?
as soon as the liquid appears, just push twice more on the pedal and it should be fine.

bluerogue85 said:
and why do you have to have brake fluid in the container?
Well that's obvious : if the reservoir becomes empty, air will enter the lines and you won't be able to bleed anything
 
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