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brake pedal REALLY hard
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the truck has 150k. I have only changed the rotors. I just used a pair of channel lock pliers to push the calipers back when I threw them back on. The pads had like 90% life left....which was wierd. I always just thought the truck didn't have very good brakes to begin with...but I hadn't tried locking up the wheels. Now that I have tried, it wont even lock the wheels up !
I don't think its a vacuum leak, cuz when I shut the engine off, its like 100 times harder to push the pedal....
I have an ABS light on, but when I disconnect the plug from the brake fluid sensor it goes away, could this have anything to do with it? Its full of fluid....
I am quite puzzled here, I'm leaning twards the assumption that there must be air in the lines, so when I panic brake, it just doesn't have enough pressure to fully lock the calipers up. I will definteiy put bleeding my brakes on the top of my list for this weekend, and drive like grandma untill then.
I don't think its a vacuum leak, cuz when I shut the engine off, its like 100 times harder to push the pedal....
I have an ABS light on, but when I disconnect the plug from the brake fluid sensor it goes away, could this have anything to do with it? Its full of fluid....
I am quite puzzled here, I'm leaning twards the assumption that there must be air in the lines, so when I panic brake, it just doesn't have enough pressure to fully lock the calipers up. I will definteiy put bleeding my brakes on the top of my list for this weekend, and drive like grandma untill then.
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Channel locks = OUCH! If the piston doesn't go in perfectly straight, it will jam itself into the bore, effectively giving you no front brakes.
You can try using a loose C-Clamp to prevent the piston from shooting out, and then slowly press on the brake pedal. This will reset the piston so it can be pushed back in evenly.
You might want to pull yer calipers and rebuild them or git some rebuilt ones. I think you might had dorked up yer calipers by using the channel locks.
The normal procedure is to use a C-clamp to press the piston back in as well as opening the bleeder valve so you don't end up squishing debris back up the line.
The normal procedure is to use a C-clamp to press the piston back in as well as opening the bleeder valve so you don't end up squishing debris back up the line.
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128 Posts
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128 Posts
yeah I'm getting an ABS light from the reservoir. I wonder if thats a pressure light or just the fluid level??
Did you look up the problem in the FSM?
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128 Posts
ok so I installed a new driver side caliper. No dice. The truck pulls hard to the right now when I panic brake... but it just doesn't stop well at all, the brakes will NOT lock up.
My mechanic budy said I might have a bad brake line.
anyone else ever have a similar problem?
Bam, what FSM are you refering to? I have a haynes manual, no I havn't looked in it.
My mechanic budy said I might have a bad brake line.
anyone else ever have a similar problem?
Bam, what FSM are you refering to? I have a haynes manual, no I havn't looked in it.
1st rule when you do brakes you always do brakes in axle pairs! No exceptions! This would make sense that you replaced the right caliper and now it pulls to the right. You need to replace the left caliper too! Bleed the brakes! Also pull off your rear drums and service them as well, make sure the wheel cylinders are moving, they tend to freeze up over time. Make sure the back brakes are adjusted as well.
Please dont skimp on your brakes. I had a good friend in Highschool that did this, and now 3 people are dead. Its a big deal!!!
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128 Posts
Bam I changed the LEFT side caliper and pads, and it STILL pulls to the right side, indicating that the left side brake is STILL not working. I'm gonna pick up the front brake lines, and the other caliper this weekend.
I really hope its not my master cylinder. Why else would the front left brake NOT be working??? The only other thing it could be would be the squishy part of the brake line failing, and sort of squishing together when under pressure.
i was thinking it could be vacuum leak on booster (booster Failed). check the valve between intake and booster. but i do not understand the car pull to "right" after replaced caliper. you might to use pressure bleed to bleed the brake because i heard abs required it. good luck
I would start with the left caliper. When I said to do brakes in axle pairs I meant that when you did the right caliper, you must do the left caliper. If your new right caliper is sliding easy and the old left one is sticky or harder to push, then the majority of the braking will be on the right side. Hence pulling to the right.
The fluid will go the path of least resistance. Therefore the right side will move more, and brake harder! I would do the caliper and then test it.
Also how are the back brakes working? Are they working? How do you know they are? Have you checked them? Are they adjusted properly?
Hope this helps you out. i know it can be frustrating. but brakes are really simple. All it is, is a piston that pushes fluid to another piston that clamps down on the brakes. It really is that simple. Take it step by step and do everything in axle pairs. So whatever you do on the right side do the same on the left!
Good luck, keep us posted
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128 Posts
Drums are a pain, To check them, make sure your parking cable is adjusted properly. You said you have a maintenance manual right? I would for sure start with that. Should have what you need there.
But you can pull the drums off and have someone else step on the brake pedal, and visually see if the wheel cylinders are pushing the pads out. If they are not, then they are probably frozen, no biggie, just buy some new ones, bleed the brakes and adjust properly. You can always do one side at a time, so you can see how they go back together. Drums can be a pain.
Did you ever get your other caliper on? Just checking to see how its going
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128 Posts
I had retired the truck to yard duty @ home, but when The truck failed to stop and sent me into the woods I had had enough. Thank god for 4x4! sorry about the lawn hun It turns out that the rotor I had installed LAST summer had COMPLETELY seperated from where it mounts to the hub. The circle part of the rotor was just spinning !!!
I don't know if its just the fact that I used an autozone part, or if it was like a 1 in 1,000,000 type thing. But it was scary ! Luckily autozone warranteed the rotor.
now my truck actually locks up the brakes! crazy !
It turns out that the rotor I had installed LAST summer had COMPLETELY seperated from where it mounts to the hub. The circle part of the rotor was just spinning !!!I don't know if its just the fact that I used an autozone part, or if it was like a 1 in 1,000,000 type thing. But it was scary ! Luckily autozone warranteed the rotor.
now my truck actually locks up the brakes! crazy !
anytime you change your brake pads dont compress the calipers without opening up the bleeder valves once the caliper compress tighten it back up and pump the brake untill it firms up and then proceend to bleed them out to get any air out of the system its good to always do this because the fluid that stays closer to the caliper tends to thin out over time caused buy the numerous heat cycles it goes threw any time you hit the brakes and the front caliper brakelines tend to brake down from the inside and by bleeding them everytime you are able to get any line debree out of them and if you dont than eventualy all of the debree builds up and acts like a check valve and cases the peddle to get hard or if 1 line has more debree than the other then when the brakes are applied it will make the vehicle pull to one side more than the other or it will can make pressing the brake peddle really hard beacuse if the fluid doesnt have a clear path to flow
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