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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2006 Camry LE with a 3.0 liter engine. The brake pedal sinks down - has been for years. I have changed the master cylinder twice (once with a refurbished one and then with a new one), checked and bled the brakes innumerable times and also had it done in a shop where it was done with a special machine which bleeds the ABS Module also, or so the shop said. No help. Now I think the culprit is the ABS Module (Toyota Service Manual calls it a Brake Actuator) that is the problem - would that thought be justified?

I am thinking of changing the module but not the pump. The problem is I do not know where it is located in my car. Can anyone please help me with this? The manual does not show the location clearly and I cannot find this information on the internet/youtube. A photo or a diagram with location will help tremendously. I can buy a used module off the internet at a reasonable price for this 2006 model. I understand an LE with a 3.0 V6 had ABS as standard on this year model.

Thanks for your help. Please let me have your help on [email protected], or at least an indication that an answer is on the forum.

Thanks again.

mahendra26
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sticky caliper slide pins gave me the same symptoms on my 2006. Did you check for that?
Thanks very much for your advice. I will certainly check it out though I do not think that would be a reason. If the slide pins are sticking, the piston will push the pad to the disk the first time the brake pedal was pressed after an overhaul, and then the pad will not retract, thus eliminating the sinking of the brake pedal - my logic may be wrong though since you had a different experience. By the way, I got under the hood in earnest today and it appears this car does not have ABS as I could not locate the ABS Module. From the master brake cylinder, a line goes to a manifold which distributes the brake fluid to the four wheels. The manifold is mounted behind the engine on the bulkhead, a little difficult to see casually. So, the ABS is eliminated too. I can think of nothing else - there is no other place where seals could leak as the only seals are on the pistons on each wheel caliper, but if they leak I would see the leak. Do you think it could be an adjustment on the booster spindle? I do not have the tool to check the spindle length sticking out on the engine side, but I did measure it once - not very accurately though - and did not find any anomaly. If you think this could be a problem, I will have to get the proper measuring tool and reopen the booster to measure and adjust it.

Again, thanks very much for your support.
 

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Thanks very much for your advice. I will certainly check it out though I do not think that would be a reason. If the slide pins are sticking, the piston will push the pad to the disk the first time the brake pedal was pressed after an overhaul, and then the pad will not retract, thus eliminating the sinking of the brake pedal - my logic may be wrong though since you had a different experience.
A stuck caliper pin most definitely can cause a soft pedal. While the brake pad will move to the rotor, the caliper will be frozen in place. This allows the piston to retract when pressure is released, creating a large gap between the piston and the brake pad. Next time you depress the brake pedal, the piston has to travel that gap again to contact the pad, resulting in a soft pedal.
 

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What is the condition of the brake hoses? Soft hoses may swell during brake application.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
What is the condition of the brake hoses? Soft hoses may swell during brake application.
Hoses are fine. That is not just me talking - everything has been inspected and tested by a shop and the problem still exists. The brakes work fine so I am not that worried. But it bugs me. Thanks a lot for all your help.
 

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WTF do you mean by sinks down? A check for internal leakage on an mc or abs modulator would be to hold the pedal softly(I said softly) for a couple until it drops and the brake light comes on. What are you describing?

If you recently changed caliper's, make sure the bleeders are on the top, if not, wrong caliper , wrong side. Descriptor there would be soft pedal.

Best!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
WTF do you mean by sinks down? A check for internal leakage on an mc or abs modulator would be to hold the pedal softly(I said softly) for a couple until it drops and the brake light comes on. What are you describing?

If you recently changed caliper's, make sure the bleeders are on the top, if not, wrong caliper , wrong side. Descriptor there would be soft pedal.

Best!
Thanks very much for the advice.
A stuck caliper pin most definitely can cause a soft pedal. While the brake pad will move to the rotor, the caliper will be frozen in place. This allows the piston to retract when pressure is released, creating a large gap between the piston and the brake pad. Next time you depress the brake pedal, the piston has to travel that gap again to contact the pad, resulting in a soft pedal.
Got you. Thanks very much!!!
 

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That is how it is with this series. I have tried most everything to improve brakes on my 04 V6 and nothing has helped.
 

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It's the nature of the beast.
To quote the Rolling Stones, "You can't always get what you want, but you get what ya need."
 

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Brake hoses like mentioned above as they age stretch under pressure, if you wan tight pedal feel replace all four rubbers with Stainless steel brake lines, it will improve pedal feel big time, have done this on many cars trucks and every street bike I have owned, they last forever and are not that high in the after market.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Brake hoses like mentioned above as they age stretch under pressure, if you wan tight pedal feel replace all four rubbers with Stainless steel brake lines, it will improve pedal feel big time, have done this on many cars trucks and every street bike I have owned, they last forever and are not that high in the after market.
Thanks a lot for the advice. Will follow.
 

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Could just be the nature of the beast as indicated in previous threads but I can't say for sure. I wanna say @Kingdom934 (?) might be able to elaborate more on it.
I had two 2004's. 2004 XLE V6 and a 2004 SE I4 M/T. Both have disc brakes all around and both have ABS. No TRAC.

The 2004 XLE V6 the brakes always felt soft. It didn't 'bite' when you hit the brakes. It'll stop fine though, but the initial bite was just too soft. I replaced the brake pads and rotors as well...bleed them and no changes. Didn't get worst or better. On the other hand, my 2004 SE I4 M/T has been a bit more responsive. It bites a bit more off the bat. From what I understand, rear pads/disc is the same for models equipped with rear disc. The V6 has a larger front disc and pads compared to the I4.

I can't say why the 2004 SE I4 M/T brakes were more responsive in the initial bite than the 2004 XLE V6 A/T. Maybe the additional weight of the engine/transmission? Maybe because it was riding on softer springs compared to the slightly stiffer SE springs? Maybe difference in the master cylinder or ABS module? Not sure.

In the end the throttle lag and the lethargic shifting U151E frustrated me. Sold the car to a friend.
 
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