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Brake rotor recommendations

632 Views 16 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  JohnGD
Hi all, my 2010 Corolla 1.8 needs some new brake rotors and pads. The last set I installed warped in about a year. The rotors I bought were bought off Amazon and were acdelco. The set I bought before that only lasted a year also and where bought at Canadian tire up here in Canada.

I'm really tired of replacing my rotors every year.

I'm looking for rotor and ceramic pad recommendations.


Cheers
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Centric makes some good quality aftermarket brake pads and rotors. I'd recommend them but since you say your old brakes warped within a year, have you checked to make sure you don't have a sticking caliper or stuck slide pins that may be overheating the rotors? AC Delco isn't a terrible brand so it's odd that they warped so quickly.
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If you are in the rustbelt, Raybestos Element 3 pads and rotors or the Powerstop Geomet pad and rotor set.

My previous favorite combo has been Brembo blanks and some Akebono Ceramics.

Aggressive pads with hard bite and tons of brake dust: Hawk HPS or Yellowstuff EBCs (I believe there both semi-metallic) coupled with slotted and dimpled EBCs rotors.
Riding the brake is the best way to warp rotors. Gear down when coasting down long hills. Unless you avoid riding the brakes, you will continue to need more rotors.
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Brembo blanks and some Akebono Ceramics. (y)
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Brembo blanks and some Akebono Ceramics. (y)
The Brembos were my past favorite, but the UV coating didnt do much in terms of rust build up. If they had a full coated line of blanks, back to being the ultimate combo.
Riding the brake is the best way to warp rotors. Gear down when coasting down long hills. Unless you avoid riding the brakes, you will continue to need more rotors.
True, riding brakes will do a number, but in practice I'd rather ride the brakes then place increase load on the driveline unless your in an emergency where you need all the help you can get to slow down.
Might consider a torque wrench for the lug nuts. In the interest of saving weight/increasing mileage rotors are thinner than in the past. I used to do lugs by feel - after a few warpages started used the t-wrench. No more warpages. My guess is it's not the rotors.
You must tq lugs ,this is not debatable

Powerstop coated rotors

Bendix pads

What I run

Look up part numbers on rockauto

Ebay
I use Centric rotors and calipers with Toyota pads on my 86 Truck. They make Stoptech performance brakes. Bought from RockAuto as a reasonable price.
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Thanks to everyone for the replies. Much appreciated.

For the record, I do use a torque wrench on my lugs, but that doesn't mean that I'm not over torquing the lugs.
I'll pay close attention to that. By the way, I usually torque my lugs to 76 lbf-ft. Is that correct?

As for rotors and pads, I'm looking at the following:
Font Glove Office supplies Electric blue Automotive lighting



Automotive tire Font Rim Audio equipment Auto part

Any comments on these rotors and pads?

Also, before I forget, how does everyone bed their rotors and pads and can anyone recommend a good rotor/pad turotial.

Cheers
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Yes, 76 lb/ft is the correct wheel torque spec for our cars. I've used those Bosch pads on another car before and they performed fine and those rotors look good too. While you're in there, check the caliper slide pins to make sure they're not seized and grease them up if need be. Also for brake pad bed in, I go by manufacturer specifications. There should be a paper that comes in the package with the brake pads that will say what to do but in general for regular street pads, it'll be nothing too crazy.
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no experience with Bosch pads.

i'd pick up the RAYBESTOS 1210H980629E3 Element3 kit. Pads + Rotors + hardware.

Road Salt approved lol. If the rotors are being replaced every single year, have you asked a mechanic to see whats up in terms of current rotor surface condition and pad wear (specifically if there was any any uneven wear in each wheel, which would indicate maybe a stuck caliper or hardware issue)
i've also got the Raybestos Element 3 bundle on my 10th gen. noise and stopping power seems similar to OEM. cost is pretty low. the coating on the rotor edges are intact after 1 winter.

only problems i had was the pad thickness and the pad ears were slightly too big. had to file them down a tiny bit.
I've used the Raybestos Element 3 products before and I agree that it is a good product.
Problem is that for many Canadians, Rockauto isn't a go to vendor anymore because of the sky high shipping costs.
Instead, many Canadians, like myself are using local vendors for some parts.
I've decided to use PartsAvatar for my rotos and pads.
They carry a good selection, but some of the brands I've never heard before.

Can anyone comment on rotors made by RS Parts, Bremsen, Bosh, Durango, PRO Fusion, Quality-Built, Avios, euro rotor, DFC and ULTRA?

Cheers
R-Line rotor AFAIK is not coated. With Canadian winters and road salt their coated Element 3 rotors should be a better choice.

You can go with Raybestos Element 3 pads or I would just pick Akebono ProAct or the stronger ASP if available, such as ASP1210A for the fronts (verify application).
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