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W

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Discussion Starter #1
I have some experience turning the wrench, enough to know not to tear
it apart if I need special tools or more than two hands, and I have had
the rig since it was new in 87, it still has the original rotors after
275K miles and I want to do replace them myself if possible.

Any tips or advice? 87 4runner, 4x4, manual shift, 22re
 
J

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Discussion Starter #2
Yes, it's possible. I'd buy new rotors first so I had them on hand. Then,
I'd take a look at where the holes are, then look on the truck for the same
holes and empty them. The old rotor should come off with reasonable ease,
assuming you don't have them held on with massive layers of rust.

On my Jeep CJ5, I have to pull the entire hub assembly to get the rotors
off, then I have to remove the wheel bolts and use a BFH (large hammer) to
separate the hub from the rotor. On my BMW and Mazda MPV, the rotors come
off the hubs while the hubs remain attached to the spindles. The BMW and the
Mazda are easier than the Jeep ...





"ww" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
>I have some experience turning the wrench, enough to know not to tear
> it apart if I need special tools or more than two hands, and I have had
> the rig since it was new in 87, it still has the original rotors after
> 275K miles and I want to do replace them myself if possible.
>
> Any tips or advice? 87 4runner, 4x4, manual shift, 22re
>
 
S
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Discussion Starter #3
If there is a lot of disassembly required, buy a Helms manual - you
will need to know this for the various torque settings required - if
you have to disassemble the wheel hub/bearing - must be done very
carefully or you will kill the wheel bearing. Some rotors are a cinch
to change - some like an 80 accord I had required taking the hub apart.
The 98 and forward accords are much simpler.

Once replaced the hubs on a chrysler product - just pulled off the
wheels and the rotor came off - oh how simple.
 
E

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Discussion Starter #4
Your job requires full dis-assembly of the hub to get it off... it's really
not that bad... just a pain in the ass...some SST's are required... There
is an oversized socket you will need to get the huge nuts off that are on
the inside of the hub... You can get this from toyota, or I've seen them on
ebay etc... When you take all the nuts off to pull the hub... it will seem
impossible to get off... There are little cylindrical tapered washers in
there that must be taken out with a hammer and an awl.. Once you ee how it
comes apart, it's not hard..

Ian

<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> If there is a lot of disassembly required, buy a Helms manual - you
> will need to know this for the various torque settings required - if
> you have to disassemble the wheel hub/bearing - must be done very
> carefully or you will kill the wheel bearing. Some rotors are a cinch
> to change - some like an 80 accord I had required taking the hub apart.
> The 98 and forward accords are much simpler.
>
> Once replaced the hubs on a chrysler product - just pulled off the
> wheels and the rotor came off - oh how simple.
>
 
E

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Discussion Starter #5
I would also suggest replacing the wheel bearings while you are in there...
Ian
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> If there is a lot of disassembly required, buy a Helms manual - you
> will need to know this for the various torque settings required - if
> you have to disassemble the wheel hub/bearing - must be done very
> carefully or you will kill the wheel bearing. Some rotors are a cinch
> to change - some like an 80 accord I had required taking the hub apart.
> The 98 and forward accords are much simpler.
>
> Once replaced the hubs on a chrysler product - just pulled off the
> wheels and the rotor came off - oh how simple.
>
 
W

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks for the info. all.

Yea, when I see it, I will know. Hope my light is working max lumen's.

One more thing , anything major diff on the rotor replace when working
with auto hubs vs manual locking?

Dang it, Ian, sounds like you really enjoy get'n in the grease!
 
J

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Discussion Starter #7
I agree, IF the hubs have to come off to get at the rotors. If the rotors
can come off without pulling the entire hub, then leave the bearings alone.




"EasyE" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
>I would also suggest replacing the wheel bearings while you are in there...
> Ian
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]
>> If there is a lot of disassembly required, buy a Helms manual - you
>> will need to know this for the various torque settings required - if
>> you have to disassemble the wheel hub/bearing - must be done very
>> carefully or you will kill the wheel bearing. Some rotors are a cinch
>> to change - some like an 80 accord I had required taking the hub apart.
>> The 98 and forward accords are much simpler.
>>
>> Once replaced the hubs on a chrysler product - just pulled off the
>> wheels and the rotor came off - oh how simple.
>>

>
>
 
E

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Discussion Starter #8
LOL.... Let's just say I know my Yota inside and out... evrything from
rebuilding the front end after a crash, to lifting it, to painting it, to
completely pulling my 22re after blowing it up and rebuilding the whole
thing to nearly a race spec motor, to countless hours of installing and
taking out just about every piece of electronic equipment you can think of
after sinking it...lol Yes I do enjoy getting my hands dirty but it's
usually a result of some hardcore wheeling with it... Now it's almost
perfect and ready to be my daily driver.. sooo You should see my current
project.. lol.. This one is unstoppable... haha

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2241993

Ian


"ww" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> thanks for the info. all.
>
> Yea, when I see it, I will know. Hope my light is working max lumen's.
>
> One more thing , anything major diff on the rotor replace when working
> with auto hubs vs manual locking?
>
> Dang it, Ian, sounds like you really enjoy get'n in the grease!
>
>
 
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