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I thought for sure we had this info in 3rd Gen, Then I figured it would be in the manual, but NOOOOooo!

I hope this thread will be helpful. There is always more than one way to do something, so don't take it as some rule. This is how I approached the work. If you learn something from the info here, great! If not, feel free to add how you do things so we can all learn.

So since I have the brand new rotors sitting here, I better log it!
the OEM Rotors brand new are:
28mm thickness and Weight is 21lbs (the entire disc thikness), and 7mm thickness of each surface disc. (The rotor is not solid, so it is 2 discs sandwiched together with air vents between the 2 sides. *You only need the first measure I refer to/28mm).
The rear pads are 10mm thick.
The front pads I forgot to measure before I put them on.

*But I didn't need to change the rotors in the front or rear as they were still at about 28mm. Also they barely had any indent on the surface.

But, at 55K miles my front pads were well worn!
I had about 2mm of pad left on a couple while other 2 had 1mm of life!
Good timing!
I looked over the brake calipers and pins and gave them a bit of a dusting, and just replaced the pads.
I will check the rears tomorrow and see what they need.

Some added helpful info/via @MikeInNH and @Is973800 :

Lug nuts 76 ft lbs
Front bracket bolts are 77 ft lbs, ( 2nd Gen)
Front caliper slide pin bolts are 25 ft lbs.
Front flex hose to caliper is 22 ft lbs with new union bolt and gasket.
Rear bracket bolts are 70 ft lbs (2nd Gen
Rear caliper slide pin bolts are 20 ft lbs.
Rear flex hose to caliper is 16 ft lbs with new union bolt and gasket.

Specs listed for 2014-2016
Thanks, especially for picture #4. I was looking at that on my HL yesterday, but I wasn't sure that was the jack point.

7,783 Posts
Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
No Prob. Glad it was helpful!

FYI: Each post has a "thank you" (this was the case before the redesign)
button as well, this help see which posts have been ....helpful :)

Thanks for the direct note!


87 Posts
I tackled the fronts as they were shot at 41K and I mean almost down to the metal. The one thing I didn't see mentioned was the bolt used to pull off the rotors. I smacked the old rotor just about as hard as I could with a rubber mallet and even a small sledge, all to no avail. It wouldn't budge. I found a #8 bolt and gave it a shot in one of the holes and within a few turns with a ratchet, the rotor popped right off. I still have no clue why it wouldn't budge with a hammer, yet a few simple and easy turns broke it free.
Anyway, please keep that in mind when you're pulling your rotors. It'll save you a bunch of energy and time.

Great post Phil!
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