[insomuchastity]

1994 XLE V6 in Lawrence Kansas with 140,000 miles.
So I had a tie rod replaced by an amatuer mechanic about 6000 miles ago because LF wheel was loose and wobbling. I thought it was the bearing, and the brakes were worn all the way down on that wheel. Currently the smaller rubber boot, not the drive axle but the other one, is torn open. I should mention also that I drove it until the drive axle completely separated suddenly while turning right before getting it replaced. This was before the amatuer tie rod job.
Still with me?
Okay, so I change the front brake pads and the driver's side doesn't like to retract. Fell for the flapper valve phenomenon in the hose and replaced it, no improvement. I've just been getting out and opening and closing the bleeder valve about every 5 miles of city driving, like I do this at stoplights and stuff. I don't like it.
I went all out and replaced both front rotors and calipers, brackets and pads and shoes, reusing only the four springy clip guys that seat the pads into the calipers, and....
Guess what. It still has to be unstuck from time to time. Initially the passenger side had to be cracked/(squirt!)/closed but it's been okay since; my first hiway venture resulted in a rapid size on the FL and smoking pads.
Today I will do a full flush of the fluid, to all 4 brakes why not, but please, tell me what could be going on here! I have the urge to run a tiny little brake snake though the rigid line but I feel I should keep that to myself.


he car is primarily used for hitting speed bumps at 36 mph, driving into massive water-filled pothole chasms, and the occasional 1x1' channel sawed into concrete cordoned off by caution tape that doesn't apply to me because I know what I am doing.

 

[Cosmofennema]

Your master cylinder is not retracting fully. There is a small orifice that is uncovered only when the piston is fully retracted, which releases the pressure from the lines. This is blocked, in all likelihood.
Easiest (not cheapest) is to replace it.
I prefer to rebuild, which is an option if you'd rather. A quick check, and new masters are about 50 bucks, more or less, prolly not worth the hassle to rebuild.

P.S. These calipers DO have a tendency to stick, but a sticky caliper will NOT 'squirt' fluid as you depict. It just won't retract. A master with a blocked orifice WILL 'squirt' fluid.

 

[Pkrface]

+1 for likely the master cylinder. Not real common, but not unheard of either (any brand).

 

[insomuchastity]

Now it pulls to the right real bad when braking.

thank you, makes sense to me, other than the dual chamberness of the master cylinder, I guess I can picture it, there is a barrier in the middle, dividing it into two stacked cylindrical chambers. This barrier would have to move along the length of the MC so both chambers can compress, and each chamber is fed from one of two valves coming from the reserve tank.
ish?

This car has no ABS

I took the thing out and emptied all the fluid by pushing the Piston and loosening the bung on the bottom. I rinsed it with clean fluid and filled it, allowing the bung to leak and sealing it, and pushing the piston in, blocking the connections and letting the suction draw fluid from the reservoir. I did this until it was squirting.

Is this what bench bleeding is? I should look that up my bad. I bled the lines pretty okay probably

Now it pulls to the right real bad when braking.

The bung on the bottom seems to only drain one chamber. I think I have air in the MC, maybe only in the chamber that serves the LF and RR wheels, hence the right pull. The pedal feels like a overripe banana. It does not smell like one.

Is there a trick to getting that little MC all the way full? is this a confirmation that it's broke and get a new one dude you can probably get it from there?

 

[insomuchastity]

p.s. the pin that push the piston coming from the booster is like loose, it can pull out 2 inches and waggle around, it goes back into place and feels well greased but it's wierd is that normal? who would know such a thing? thank you if you read this and at the least found it coherent and mildly amusing

 

[Cosmofennema]

Hate to say this, but, as important as brakes are to your safety, it's time to take this in to a mechanic, one with an actual shingle hanging outside his door.
The master cylinder should be replaced, flushing may not get all the grit out, and I assure you there is grit in there.