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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys! I have a 86 Toyota 4x4 pickup with a 22R 5 speed manual. I just replaced the clutch and flywheel throw out bearing ect. The clutch keeps slipping and it's driving me crazy. I've bled it more times than I can count, replaced the master cylinder a year or so ago. I just replaced the slave a month ago. The clutch slips more in hotter weather for some reason. It engages at the last bit of the pedle release. I also noticed the it likes to slip most in third gear and up. Sometimes it will slip for a second or two and reenguage without adjusting the throttle, almost as if the clutch lost contact with the flywheel for a split second. I am at a loss as to why this keeps happening. I can find no leaks along the clutch line either and the rear main seal was replaced while I was in there for the clutch. Any suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That's a thought. I installed an exedy clutch kit with a new pressure plate. I felt like that would be a quality oem replacement. Are they known for defective plates?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I should add that the clutch was slipping prior to replacement as well. That's what lead me to replace it in the first place. When I inspected the old disk, it was abnormally worn in places where it seemed like more contact was being made than others but it had plenty of friction material remaining.
 

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That's a thought. I installed an exedy clutch kit with a new pressure plate. I felt like that would be a quality oem replacement. Are they known for defective plates?
Anything is possible. Just googling "exedy clutch bad" or exedy clutch defective" brought up plenty of complaints about them. It's maybe just Murphy's law on this.

I would just go OEM when it comes to engine and drive train parts. Aftermarket parts are always a 50/50 shot.
 

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I should add that the clutch was slipping prior to replacement as well. That's what lead me to replace it in the first place. When I inspected the old disk, it was abnormally worn in places where it seemed like more contact was being made than others but it had plenty of friction material remaining.
Did you resurface the flywheel at the machine shop?
 

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I installed a new one because it was the same price through rock auto as a resurface. I had a friend help me with the job and I know he used brake cleaner to clean off the coating prior to installation. I've read that people generally clean the flywheel with alcohol so I don't know if perhaps the brake cleaner didn't do the job.
 

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I installed a new one because it was the same price through rock auto as a resurface. I had a friend help me with the job and I know he used brake cleaner to clean off the coating prior to installation. I've read that people generally clean the flywheel with alcohol so I don't know if perhaps the brake cleaner didn't do the job.
Alcohol and brake cleaner would do the same result. Should be no worries there.
 

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I have the exact same situation as the OP for this thread......clutch slips after replacing everything. I see there was no solution recommended to the OP and wonder if anybody has any ideas since this was posted?
 

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After installing the new clutch, is there "free play" in the clutch pedal. Unless there is "free play" in the pedal, the clutch pressure plate is not being fully released.
 

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No, there is no free play. That is the problem, and no matter how much I shorten the push rod the free play goes away after driving the truck for awhile. It's as if the hydraulic fluid keeps pumping into the slave cylinder and not allowing the pressure plate lever to back off the throw-out bearing.

I'm pretty sure a brake master cylinder has a bleed valve that allows brake fluid to flow back into the master cylinder when you release the brake.......otherwise the brakes would drag. Does the clutch master cylinder have a similar set-up?

This all started after I replaced the mc when it was leaking. I assumed the new mc was defective and I believe I replaced it but if I did I failed to put it in my maintenance log so I am not certain. It would be highly unusual to have two mc's defective, but I bought them from the same NAPA dealer from in-stock parts, so they could have been from the same batch of re-builds.

I have ordered a genuine Toyota mc from a Toyota dealer who says it is not a re-build. I can't believe this is anything but a hydraulic problem, but I will see after I install the new mc.
 

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There should be a flexible rubber hose between the clutch slave and the hard line from the master cylinder. The hose may have deteriorated internally and clogged causing fluid to flow in one direction only and causing hydraulic pressure to build up at the slave and not release the clutch fork and throw out bearing.
 

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So, I put in a genuine Toyota clutch master cylinder and it fixed the problem. The only visible difference between the Toyota part and the NAPA part was the push rod in the NAPA part was quite a bit longer. It was so long, in fact, that I could not shorten the effective length of the rod through adjustment because the rod went through the clevis and hit up against the clutch pedal lever.

Anyway, I now have free play in the clutch pedal and the engagement point is closer to the floor rather than all the way up. I probably didn't need a new clutch and pressure plate, but live and learn, I guess.
 
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McRider01
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