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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It turns out that an old friend had a 2001 US Made Camry sitting in his garage all this while.

Car was last SMOGGED in 2015 and the next SMOG is literally due next week.

Terrible oil leak: black and dirty all over engine. Did not have any coolant in reservoir but green coolant in radiator.

Surprisingly the engine had 10W30 brand new oil in it but it was overfilled.

Apparently my friends elder brother had done a "few things" to the car last year but what exactly is a mystery.

Does not look like anyone drove the car with that oil as the oil was completely transparent. I think it's 10W30 because there was a year old 10W30 gallon jug in the trunk.

I did not turn on the engine as I need to change the oil first, but the car turns on electrically.

Questions:

1. Should I worry about the gas in the tank? There's half a tank of gas in there but gas is likely 1-2 years old. How bad would it be to run the engine with this gas for 10 minutes after an oil change?
2. Should I do an oil AND filter change immediately? Or should I keep the filter as is, change the oil, fire it up and see if it has good compression before going ahead with it?
3. Engine had failed SMOG in 2011. EGR was replaced and it passed. What should I inspect after I have the car running
4. What is this light glowing on the dashboard
5. Any special care I should be taking before turning the ignition?
 

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It turns out that an old friend had a 2001 US Made Camry sitting in his garage all this while.

Car was last SMOGGED in 2015 and the next SMOG is literally due next week.

Terrible oil leak: black and dirty all over engine. Did not have any coolant in reservoir but green coolant in radiator.

Surprisingly the engine had 10W30 brand new oil in it but it was overfilled.

Apparently my friends elder brother had done a "few things" to the car last year but what exactly is a mystery.

Does not look like anyone drove the car with that oil as the oil was completely transparent. I think it's 10W30 because there was a year old 10W30 gallon jug in the trunk.

I did not turn on the engine as I need to change the oil first, but the car turns on electrically.

Questions:

1. Should I worry about the gas in the tank? There's half a tank of gas in there but gas is likely 1-2 years old. How bad would it be to run the engine with this gas for 10 minutes after an oil change?
2. Should I do an oil AND filter change immediately? Or should I keep the filter as is, change the oil, fire it up and see if it has good compression before going ahead with it?
3. Engine had failed SMOG in 2011. EGR was replaced and it passed. What should I inspect after I have the car running
4. What is this light glowing on the dashboard
5. Any special care I should be taking before turning the ignition?
1. I've started up cars that sat for 10+ years with the gas that was in the tank then. After fixing the engine up only one failed to start and required siphoning gas. After the water cleared up everything ran fine, and those cars are still running with the original fuel system components 200k miles later. Sources: uncle's BMW 2002, Datsun 510 project car, and an old Land Rover (failed to start, tank was like 70% water but from leaking seal). Some people will talk about gas going bad, using a fuel stabilizer. If you're worried, siphon the gas and fill the tank up fresh, it's $30 or so for insurance.

2. Again, cheap insurance. Toss in high mileage oil to help with the probably-degraded seals and a decent filter.

3. Invest in a good scanner that will give you live data. Lots of this going around here lately. I know this doesn't sound helpful, but if there's a problem, fix it lol.

4. Tail lamp out indicator. Problem with bulb, wiring, or the resistor-net sensor in the trunk.

5. Turn it over by hand first. If it doesn't move, squirt oil into each cylinder. If that doesn't work, take off timing belt and spin the oil pump with a drill or something. Take out plugs and crank it to make sure that it won't snap something if it's planning to hydrolock on you.



HTH
 
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Lol, and either attach the battery hold-down bracket or take it off, it'll swing around and short the battery and then you'll yelp
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
1. I've started up cars that sat for 10+ years with the gas that was in the tank then. After fixing the engine up only one failed to start and required siphoning gas. After the water cleared up everything ran fine, and those cars are still running with the original fuel system components 200k miles later. Sources: uncle's BMW 2002, Datsun 510 project car, and an old Land Rover (failed to start, tank was like 70% water but from leaking seal). Some people will talk about gas going bad, using a fuel stabilizer. If you're worried, siphon the gas and fill the tank up fresh, it's $30 or so for insurance.
Phew! not needing the change the gas helps a lot.

4. Tail lamp out indicator. Problem with bulb, wiring, or the resistor-net sensor in the trunk.

5. Turn it over by hand first. If it doesn't move, squirt oil into each cylinder. If that doesn't work, take off timing belt and spin the oil pump with a drill or something. Take out plugs and crank it to make sure that it won't snap something if it's planning to hydrolock on you.
Good idea about turn it over by hand first. I will use breaker bar.

Engine turns clockwise, right? Does it matter?

I won't have power where I am working. I can't afford cordless tools either. Only elbow grease

Lol, and either attach the battery hold-down bracket or take it off, it'll swing around and short the battery and then you'll yelp
You noticed that >:D

Who knows how that happened. Weird. It was like that.
 

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Engine turns clockwise, right? Does it matter?

I won't have power where I am working. I can't afford cordless tools either. Only elbow grease
Forgot to mention, maybe dump a bottle of HEET in to help with some amount of water.

Turn engine clockwise. If you have to spin the oil pump by hand, you don't need too much speed, a drill is just faster. If pistons are seized due to lack of lubrication you'll know when the crank starts turning over
 

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First thing to do is add a bottle of Seafoam or similar injector cleaner to the gas tank. This will allow the engine to run ... The injectors usually clog up with dried gas deposits ... and take care of minor moisture issues.
It would be a good idea to remove all the spark plugs and add 1 ounce of engine oil to each cylinder. This will keep the piston rings from sticking.
You should try to rotate the crankshaft ... clockwise ... using the harmonic balancer bolt, just to see if it moves freely. After you have removed the spark plugs, bump the starter to get a little oil to the crank and rod bearings.
Once the crank is spinning freely, replace the plugs and see if it will start.
Note: Removing the 15A EFI fuse will deactivate the fuel pump and spark generation while you are getting the crankshaft to sign-up.
 

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Honestly, I think you're overblowing the whole thing. I'd drain enough oil so that it's not more than half mark overfilled (roughly 1/4" above fill line) add some fresh gas and maybe some fuel stabilizer, and crank her.

I'm sure oil is fine - it's not milk and doesn't go bad from sitting in a pan and not being used. If there's any crap in the gas tank, your gas filter will catch that - that's what it's for. If the oil filter is new, leave it as is. It's unused, after all.
Compression? Unless there's a problem with the engine, of you're buying the car and want to make sure there isn't one, why bother? Or, if you have a reason to suspect blown head gasket on that oil leak.

Fix the oil leak. If you're really paranoid, change the fuel filter AFTER you go through a tank of gas or two. Enjoy the car!

18 month of sitting is nothing. My project Celica sat for 5 years. Fresh jug of gas and charged battery - started right up. Yea, there was some smell of old gas for first few minutes, and that was that.
 

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Depending on where the car is storage, gas might last longer. I have my Cressida that has been in storage for about 5 years. I monthy drive the car around the block and let it sit idle for good 30/60 minutes (try to rev different speeds). Since the car isn't used, I do the oil change a good 12-18 months at a time with M1 HM synthetic. Fuel fillup is sometimes between 6-12, up to around 18 months as I try to burn up all the gas. Transmission fluid been drained and refilled a few times as well because of another pending issue I fixed, so that is as red as fruit punch.

I'd worry about the leaks if anything and any fluids that is overdue. A car sitting in the garage and only thing I'd worry about is any fluids that wasn't upkeep since it was in storage. Depending how much over the oil is might be an issue, but it shouldn't be an issue if it just a tad bit .Might want to drain if it is a few inches above 'F'....
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
I need your input on whether I should buy this (FYI it's going to cost me $1k all in but don't make this the primary decision for your input)

Status:

1. The engine has rod knock: perhaps this is the reason why it had 10W30 brand new oil in it as someone was hoping heavier oil would solve the problem.
Sound attached.

2. The trunk cable does not work. Not sure how hard this is to solve. Any ideas?

3. The blower and AC does not work unless the dial is all the way over at high. Not sure how hard this is to solve. Any ideas?

4. The power locks don't work and the locks have to be closed manually. Not sure how hard this is to solve. Any ideas?

5. The power windows don't work. Not sure how hard this is to solve. Any ideas?

6. The transmission fluid is pretty dirty. I was unable to drive the car more than a mile and could not go higher than 15MPH (not due to drivetrain but bacause the tires are bare to the threads and I did not want to die) but I made it do D, R, 2, and L and the car moved correctly. Any tests I can do at this point?

7. The air intake hose is torn and a brand new one is needed. What are typical prices for some that last a while?

It's apparent that this car has not been loved but I am ready to make it all up to it. The owner gave up on it because as you can see, fixing these with a mechanic would be cost prohibitive and they were looking for someone who loves the car instead of sending it to the salvage yard that would pay $200 for it.

I have never rebuilt an engine before (let me know if this is necessary at this point), but if you all are going to help me through this, I am happy to learn how to rebuild a 5S-FE!

Don't worry if you don't have answers to 2 - 5 yet. I am sure I can figure it out and ask questions when I get stuck, but your experiences are always valuable so share what you can.
What are your thoughts?
 

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I need your input on whether I should buy this (FYI it's going to cost me $1k all in but don't make this the primary decision for your input)

Status:

1. The engine has rod knock: perhaps this is the reason why it had 10W30 brand new oil in it as someone was hoping heavier oil would solve the problem.
Sound attached.

2. The trunk cable does not work. Not sure how hard this is to solve. Any ideas?

3. The blower and AC does not work unless the dial is all the way over at high. Not sure how hard this is to solve. Any ideas?

4. The power locks don't work and the locks have to be closed manually. Not sure how hard this is to solve. Any ideas?

5. The power windows don't work. Not sure how hard this is to solve. Any ideas?

6. The transmission fluid is pretty dirty. I was unable to drive the car more than a mile and could not go higher than 15MPH but I made it do D, R, 2, and L and the car moved correctly. Any tests I can do at this point?

7. The air intake hose is torn and a brand new one is needed. What are typical prices for some that last a while?

It's apparent that this car has not been loved but I am ready to make it all up to it. The owner gave up on it because as you can see, fixing these with a mechanic would be cost prohibitive and they were looking for someone who loves the car instead of sending it to the salvage yard that would pay $200 for it.

I have never rebuilt an engine before (let me know if this is necessary at this point), but if you all are going to help me through this, I am happy to learn how to rebuild a 5S-FE!

Don't worry if you don't have answers to 2 - 5 yet. I am sure I can figure it out and ask questions when I get stuck, but your experiences are always valuable so share what you can.
What are your thoughts?
1. Do not bother rebuilding unless you have the extra cash and want to learn. Toyota put out literally millions of 5S-FE's and you're better off getting good at swapping out the engine with one from a Pick-n-pull or buy a used engine from CL or an engine warehouse for $3-500. That way, if you get a bad one from the yard you can have another one in in about a day or so. Or if it has something easy on the 5S-FE like a blown head gasket you can just do that.

Rod knock will get worse, and you can't just replace rod bearings and expect to fix it. Crank, etc. will have to be machined and balanced against undersized rod bearings and main bearings. Put in a new engine and make sure the new one is taken care of (these engines especially do not tolerate oil starvation).

2. My 2001 had that problem. It wasn't all the way bad, just very mushy. I don't think there're adjustment nuts on the cable (maybe somebody else can correct me if I'm wrong), so either the cable is disconnected, broken, or the latch needs adjustment. Attached is the latch adjustment procedure along with the pictures.

EDIT: Forgot about the key position on the trunk that stops the lever from working. http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...-t-pop-up-using-latch-beside-driver-seat.html

3. Check blower motor resistor. Get one from the yard and swap it out, or buy a new one. Middle-of-the-road is about $15 on RockAuto.

4/5. If the locks and windows both don't work, power to the master switch assembly on the driver's door first (check fuse beforehand), then the switch itself. I know my local Pick-n-pull sells the used master switch assembly for $13 or so. If you are getting power and you changed the switch for a known good one, then plan on swapping out door lock actuators and window regulators from a Pick-n-pull (will save you a lot of money on these cars).

6. Pull codes and look for trans codes, notice if it's slipping. How many miles on the car/trans? First line of defense is put in a new filter/gasket and drain and refill a couple times (drive around for 10 minutes between each drain-and-refill).

7. Pick-n-pull, Pick-n-pull, Pick-n-pull. Very common problem, just make sure you get the exact same elephant nose with the correct resonator, vacuum attachment points, etc.
 

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I would ask, what is your plan for this car? Cheap second car, future daily driver, something to tinker on, something to flip? The list you provided makes this a $300 car in my book. A known running engine and transmission will cost anywhere from $700 - $1500 depending on what is available. Then the labor of swapping it out yourself. Do you really have all the tools needed to do this? Once you get it running, other things will pop up. Replacing the struts, possible brake work, etc. As you said, it is obvious the car has not been loved so ask yourself, do you really love the car? If not, just walk away. These cars are for sale all the time and I have no doubt that if your spent $2K - $3K up front you would have a much nicer car that can be enjoyed on day 1. Just my .02 as I have been there.
 

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$300 is top dollar for that car, and I guarantee you NOBODY will pay a penny more. You're competing with junkyards that I think are offering $150-180 these days, if that. If all it needed was an engine and the body was in tip-top shape, I'd go up to $500, but not with that list of issues.

Much better cars can be had for a $1000. I bought an 02 Celica GTS (2ZZ engine) w 160k mi that needed a new clutch, water pump, 1 door speaker, and had some minor cosmetic issues - $1000. AND the car had almost brand new 4 tires. $200 on clutch, flywheel resurfacing, and new FW bolts and rear main, $300 on water pump and other maintenance stuff, and I have a $2500 car.
 

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1. Do not bother rebuilding unless you have the extra cash and want to learn. Toyota put out literally millions of 5S-FE's and you're better off getting good at swapping out the engine with one from a Pick-n-pull or buy a used engine from CL or an engine warehouse for $3-500. That way, if you get a bad one from the yard you can have another one in in about a day or so. Or if it has something easy on the 5S-FE like a blown head gasket you can just do that.

Rod knock will get worse, and you can't just replace rod bearings and expect to fix it. Crank, etc. will have to be machined and balanced against undersized rod bearings and main bearings. Put in a new engine and make sure the new one is taken care of (these engines especially do not tolerate oil starvation).

2. My 2001 had that problem. It wasn't all the way bad, just very mushy. I don't think there're adjustment nuts on the cable (maybe somebody else can correct me if I'm wrong), so either the cable is disconnected, broken, or the latch needs adjustment. Attached is the latch adjustment procedure along with the pictures.

EDIT: Forgot about the key position on the trunk that stops the lever from working. http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...-t-pop-up-using-latch-beside-driver-seat.html

3. Check blower motor resistor. Get one from the yard and swap it out, or buy a new one. Middle-of-the-road is about $15 on RockAuto.

4/5. If the locks and windows both don't work, power to the master switch assembly on the driver's door first (check fuse beforehand), then the switch itself. I know my local Pick-n-pull sells the used master switch assembly for $13 or so. If you are getting power and you changed the switch for a known good one, then plan on swapping out door lock actuators and window regulators from a Pick-n-pull (will save you a lot of money on these cars).

6. Pull codes and look for trans codes, notice if it's slipping. How many miles on the car/trans? First line of defense is put in a new filter/gasket and drain and refill a couple times (drive around for 10 minutes between each drain-and-refill).

7. Pick-n-pull, Pick-n-pull, Pick-n-pull. Very common problem, just make sure you get the exact same elephant nose with the correct resonator, vacuum attachment points, etc.
insightbrewery sums it up very nicely, if not more than what I would had add.

The blower motor is a semi common issue with the Gen4. Tends to happen for some and not others. My mom 2001 had the same exact issue. Replaced the resistor and was good.

I would also recommend drain and refill the trans. Was the trans also part of the issue prior to it being not used?

Knocking noise in the 5S is not good. Oil probably ran low. Leaking fluids? The oil pump seal tends to go on these and owners run low on oil...or sludge. I'd not offer $1000 if the engine is done for and transmission is questionable. If the interior is immaculate but the engine/trans needs to get done, I'd consider it...for less...otherwise there might be better ones that run half decent first.

For what it is worth, I bought my 1998 Camry LE V6 from the first owner for $1000. I had to get it tow home though. It was running and sort of drive able but it leaked coolant really bad. The coolant by-pass hose blew out and the owner decided it was time although I think his wife pressured him since their daughter was going to drive soon and figure to get something newer. The car had 204K at the time and needed a new by-pass hose and a complete set of tires (down to the wire). Interior/Exterior was immaculate except for a few hit and run the owner got into. Owner had 99.9% of all repair receipts, original receipt of purchase of car and original window sticker. Car was garage kept a majority of the time.
I've put in a few thousands into the car, half of which was needed and the other half was things I wanted. For me, it was worth it.
 

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http://vocaroo.com/i/s0WNivNHRReQ

rod knock noise :crying:

Could not attach as forum does not allow sound files

The broken air intake hose presents itself as the air/hissing noise.

"Terrible oil leak: black and dirty all over engine. Did not have any coolant in reservoir but green coolant in radiator."

"Surprisingly the engine had 10W30 brand new oil in it but it was overfilled."

"Apparently my friends elder brother had done a "few things" to the car last year but what exactly is a mystery."
Have to agree w/ all above - offer up $150 if you love it and want a new long term project, else walk away and search for something decent in the $800 - $ 1000 range that needs much less work than this one.
 

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Have to agree w/ all above - offer up $150 if you love it and want a new long term project, else walk away and search for something decent in the $800 - $ 1000 range that needs much less work than this one.
Around here, $800-1000 gets you a Camry with a snapped timing belt with a lot of small issues that don't affect driveability. I agree, better choice.
 
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Around here, $800-1000 gets you a Camry with a snapped timing belt with a lot of small issues that don't affect driveability. I agree, better choice.
Same around here - just don't want to see the OP get saddled w/ a car treated like a 'beater' by his friend's older brother.. Which is why it sometimes isn't a good idea to buy a friend's (or brother of friend's, girlfriend's, ex-girlfriends brother, etc.) vehicle. Too much sentiment involved, vs. $$$.

* Given the pics of that engine compartment - the transmission, suspension, etc. would all also be highly suspect, at least to me here.
 

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Same around here - just don't want to see the OP get saddled w/ a car treated like a 'beater' by his friend's older brother.. Which is why it sometimes isn't a good idea to buy a friend's (or brother of friend's, girlfriend's, ex-girlfriends brother, etc.) vehicle. Too much sentiment involved, vs. $$$.

* Given the pics of that engine compartment - the transmission, suspension, etc. would all also be highly suspect, at least to me here.
Lol my '95 is like that. Runs great now but I basically replaced everything. Guy pulled the usual Craigslist excuses.

"my uncle and I never finished the timing belt job"

"no it doesn't have a blown head gasket"

"everything else is great"

"A/C doesn't work though, just needs a recharge"

...funny thing is, only thing that wasn't screwed up was the A/C. Blew ice-cold when I started it up :grin:
 

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Just realized the car is stored sitting for a year or two...out in the weather.

If it was a garage car, yea okay, potential. But if it is sitting for that long with no up keep, you're look also possible 4 new tires and any potential brake work.

Not sure if it was stored on dirt/grass, but stuff can start to live in the car in places you don't know. I'd offer bare minimal due to the condition of the car.
 

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Lol my '95 is like that. Runs great now but I basically replaced everything. Guy pulled the usual Craigslist excuses.

"my uncle and I never finished the timing belt job"

"no it doesn't have a blown head gasket"

"everything else is great"

"A/C doesn't work though, just needs a recharge"

...funny thing is, only thing that wasn't screwed up was the A/C. Blew ice-cold when I started it up :grin:
Same here, and the '00 Camry was gifted to us by my parents for our daughter's to learn to drive with & use when they're home from school.

Have to laugh also, same deal: "Well, we went to trade the Camry in and they only offered us a few hundred dollars for it, YOU should take it for the kids - it runs GREAT!" Sure it did.. only after weeks of working on it, and several hundred dollars worth of parts and fluids later..

But in all fairness to my parents, they did try to keep up on maintenance w/ oil changes, TB, gaskets, etc. - it was only when my father had health issues, that maintenance was neglected towards the end. So I had good history on the vehicle, and even with that, there was still moderate work that needed to be done to get it road-worthy / safe for the ladies to drive.

That's why I'm happy to be on the forum - lots of good people here give freely of their time & excellent advice for DIY'ers like us to help maintain & rehab their Camry's. * If the OP decides to 'go for it', he's in the right place too.

It's been a few years now, but every so often my Dad will ask "So how's my old Camry doing?" (Shaking head)

"It runs GREAT Dad!" .. Sentiment, vs. $$$.

:grin:
 
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