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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Thought I would share the job I just completed. Had to go to the airport to pick up my mother in law, figured I would rotate my tires before I went as they were overdue and the trip is a couple of hundred miles.

Well I started to break the wheel nuts loose, they were all super tight and they were tight all the way off. After trying a couple I decided to not do the rotation at this time. I then went to re-tighten the nuts, they went down hard all the way then one of them broke off!! Damn, so while I consider driving on three nuts I am tightening the others, then SNAP another breaks off!

So it looks like I am taking the minivan to get MIL.

Today I take things apart to see what's up. All the nuts are hard to take off. I popped the broken studs loose before I even took the wheel off. I then removed the caliper and torque plate. Luckily they thought to give access to remove and install studs without removing the hub, I had to tap them in with a punch as it wasn't a perfect alignment. I then went through the painful job of seating the studs, I was drawing them in with a nut and spacer as per the Toyota service manual. It was not going well and I was worried I would break the new studs. I tried a hammer and punch but there was not really enough room to get a good hit, so back to the nut and spacer and big ratchet. I finally got them all the way in and seated.

With the hard part done i proceed to change the brake pads. I popped for a $26 hardware kit as I somehow lost one of the anti-squeal springs. I also bought all new lug nuts front and rear and a cheap tap and die set (studs are 12X1.5). I ran the die down each stud, a painfully slow process, the new nuts spin right on now. Torqued the wheel nuts to 76 ft lbs.

Next week I will run the die down the rear studs and replace all the lug nuts. Kind of a pain in the butt job but I got it done! :clap:
 

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I've broken at least 6 now. Get ready for some more headaches down the road. I think I might have torqued them too tight. That or I turn the nuts with too much weight against them while the tire is rubbing the ground.:confused: Once you cross the threads, they're trash; never mind the lube. So now I use a torque wrench every time. We'll see for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I've broken at least 6 now. Get ready for some more headaches down the road. I think I might have torqued them too tight. That or I turn the nuts with too much weight against them while the tire is rubbing the ground.:confused: Once you cross the threads, they're trash; never mind the lube. So now I use a torque wrench every time. We'll see for sure.
Amen on the torque wrench. I think my problems were twofold, one I had rust and two I think my son over tightened them the last time he helped me.

I think I am good to go on the fronts. And I will fix up the rears next week.

I have been working on cars for 30+ years and never worried about torquing lug nuts, but I think that's going to change from here on out.

I think I will get some anti-size stuff to put on the studs.
 

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I have been working on cars for 30+ years and never worried about torquing lug nuts, but I think that's going to change from here on out.
exactly! I guess turning that cross bar can produce higher torque than acceptable without much effort on these toys. My advice, spin the two pieces with some antisieze to prove they spin freely before installing the studs. I have proven that the Autozone/ Napa parts are often flawed and don't spin right. BTW, I'm sure you know this but believe it or not the fronts are different than the rears. The lengths are different and I recall the threads might be as well. So don't mix em up like I did once. :hammer:
 

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97 Corolla 1.8L 5spd
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My friend broke ALOT of studs on his corolla before as well, i also changed mine because i had the wrong size lug nuts on it.... PITA job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
I've broken several on my 97, don't think I've ever seen a car with such weak studs. Now I keep a few on the shelf, I know they will be needed.
Yeah, like I said, I have been working on cars forever and have NEVER broken a wheel stud by tightening it, I have seen them stripped or the nuts rounded off and some broken by someone else, but I have never broken one myself... until now.

I am not sure what they used in these, some sort of cheap steel.

And another thing, these cars are a major pain to jack up. I have the Toyota service manual so I know the jacking points, but still, I cringe every time I jack it up as I feel like I am going to bend something.

About as bad as the first generation air cooled VW's, those were fun to jack up as well as they were thin sheet metal everywhere. At least on those you have a solid front beam and rear transmission mount to use, the Toyota just seems so light and thin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Stud and Nut specs

FYI, good to know as the front and rears are slightly different.

From Autozone.com:

REAR STUD
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Part Number: 610-244.1
Weight: 0.08 lbs
Application: Rear
Type: Serrated Stud
Thread: M12-1.5
Knurl Diameter: 14.22mm
Length: 37mm
Shoulder Length: 8mm

FRONT STUD
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Part Number: 610-266.1
Weight: 0.14 lbs
Application: Front
Type: Serrated Stud
Thread: M12-1.5
Knurl Diameter: 14.20mm
Length: 40mm
Shoulder Length: 8mm

WHEEL NUT
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Part Number: 611-066.1
Weight: 0.21 lbs
Type: Open nut
Thread: M12-1.5
Hex Size: 21 mm.
Length: 16 mm.
Seat Angle: 60 deg.
 

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at my job its a very common thing for toyota to have difficulty gettin the lug nuts off and on. I think its the quality of parts. Usually people put antiseize on it and over time i just gets dirty and dry. so it doesnt go on as smooth as before
 

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And another thing, these cars are a major pain to jack up. I have the Toyota service manual so I know the jacking points, but still, I cringe every time I jack it up as I feel like I am going to bend something.
Yeah I guess I worried too the first few times. I use a garage jack. I always make sure to grab the notch with the jack and there's never been an issue. I kind of appreciate the setup now because it is failproof and your not guessing if it will work. The four points ensure (I hope) that you will have proper support to prevent callapse especially when you have to raise the car 18" on all four points and get under it to work.:eek:
 
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