I have a 94 with 212K on it. I changed the oil and drove about 1000 miles. Had to add about a quart. I know this thing leaks some, don't know what is leaking. I have not had time to figure it out yet. Are there any suggestions to make it not burn oil? Also, when I start it in the morning, I smoke out the neighborhood with blue smoke! Any suggestions? Does this all mean that the engine is going?
burning oil???
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Blue smoke sounds like too much oil, if Im correct?
And don't use cheap oils. Use high mileage or (I recently changed to) synthetic. Quaker State sells synthetic for roughly the same cost of Castrol High Mileage. So its not a breaking the bank.
I tried non-high mileage oil once (against my will), and my engine smelt like a BBQ grill.
And don't use cheap oils. Use high mileage or (I recently changed to) synthetic. Quaker State sells synthetic for roughly the same cost of Castrol High Mileage. So its not a breaking the bank.
I tried non-high mileage oil once (against my will), and my engine smelt like a BBQ grill.
Blue smoke = bad piston rings and/or valve seals.
Time for an engine rebuild.
Run a thicker oil, like a 40 weight to slow the burn off process down in the meantime.
Time for an engine rebuild.
Run a thicker oil, like a 40 weight to slow the burn off process down in the meantime.
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Blue smoke on cold starts means worn valve seals. Blue smoke all the time means poor piston oil rings, or non-existent valve seals. The fact that you have oil external oil leaks is compounding the oil loose issue for you.
I would stay away from synthetics. Synthetics, once you have an engine that burns and/or leaks oil, will generally cause more oil loss. But a badly worn engine can't be stopped by a particular liquid added from a can. An overhaul will fix it, if you want to spend that kind of money. If you can do most of the work yourself, it isn't too bad.
I would stay away from synthetics. Synthetics, once you have an engine that burns and/or leaks oil, will generally cause more oil loss. But a badly worn engine can't be stopped by a particular liquid added from a can. An overhaul will fix it, if you want to spend that kind of money. If you can do most of the work yourself, it isn't too bad.
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Well sorry for giving incorrect information LOL.
My car leaks oil too, but it runs out faster on extended trips, maybe 1/4 quart after a 1,000 miles with syntec or high mileage. It never takes an entire quart.
But my '87 buick...man, it'd need a quart every 5 miles :lol:
My car leaks oil too, but it runs out faster on extended trips, maybe 1/4 quart after a 1,000 miles with syntec or high mileage. It never takes an entire quart.
But my '87 buick...man, it'd need a quart every 5 miles :lol:
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If you only have the blue smoke on startup, and not any when just sitting in the driveway/garage and idling when all warmed up, then you likely do not have any problems in the block area. So I wouldn't be looking at replacing the entire engine then.
Timing belts on a 94 5S-FE engine should be replaced every 60k miles. If you are at that point (or beyond), you will want to do a major maintenance job on the engine (timing belt, water pump, new oil seals at the front of the engine, idler/tensioner pulleys, etc.). When you go in to do that, really there isn't that much more extra work to remove the cylinder head from the car, get a good gasket kit for a cylinder head rebuild, take the cylinder head to a machine shop with the new valve seals from the gasket kit, and have them machine the head gasket mating surface, check valve lash, and put the new valve seals in. Then, with a new head gasket and new head bolts, and gaskets from your gasket kit, start putting everything back together again. This will cost you less than getting a decent engine.
Otherwise, a good used engine will liekly cost around $500. But you will probably want to do all this work on a used engine also, to make sure it doesn't do the same thing your current engine is doing after it is installed.
Timing belts on a 94 5S-FE engine should be replaced every 60k miles. If you are at that point (or beyond), you will want to do a major maintenance job on the engine (timing belt, water pump, new oil seals at the front of the engine, idler/tensioner pulleys, etc.). When you go in to do that, really there isn't that much more extra work to remove the cylinder head from the car, get a good gasket kit for a cylinder head rebuild, take the cylinder head to a machine shop with the new valve seals from the gasket kit, and have them machine the head gasket mating surface, check valve lash, and put the new valve seals in. Then, with a new head gasket and new head bolts, and gaskets from your gasket kit, start putting everything back together again. This will cost you less than getting a decent engine.
Otherwise, a good used engine will liekly cost around $500. But you will probably want to do all this work on a used engine also, to make sure it doesn't do the same thing your current engine is doing after it is installed.
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