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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a higher grade cam installed on my 90 toy 22 RE, the specs are as follows

Redline cam

Advertised lift .425
Advertised durtaion 268 Degrees
Lobe separation 110 Degrees
Overlap 40 degrees

Exhaust Opens 39 Degrees BBDC
Intake opens -1 Degrees btdc
Exhaust closes -1 ATDC
Intake closes 39 Degrees ABDC

Exhaust duration 218 degrees
over lap 2 degrees

Intake duration 218 Degrees

Those number mean little to nothing to me i understand some of em but most of em are over my head...

So what do you all think of this cam? I hear it is a little above a stock cam and offers a little more touqe.. I wanted a little more touqe due to the fact that i want to put 33's or 32 on my truck and do not want to swap the gears.. what are your thoughts?

I have a 3 inch lift on my truck and i hear i can go with 33's if i bend the front lance a little..

I have a 90 Toy 22 RE 4x4 btw..
 

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1990 2wd KC pick-up
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If the text is too little, just give me your email adress and I'll send you the originals.

Happy reading.









 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well that isnt a bad read.. I mean i learned a little more bout over lap, and little things here and there bout cams and a little more about back pressure.. But its sounds like the only way to know if the cam really will work well is to just get it running and find out, since i have no idea what factory settings are.. I have nothing to compare it to.. But none the less with the 2 or 3 inch bigger tires that will make a difference too.. So thanks for the info, never hurts to read much.. I should just call red line and see what RPM i should expect to get the most power out of with the tire size i select.. or once again just hope in the old truck and see where i seem to have most horse power.....


Damn no wounder VTEC engines work so well.. Thats a good idea to have a cam that has variable timing..
 

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1990 2wd KC pick-up
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From my own experience, the cam rarely give you more torque at idle, so I would recomand it for crawling only purpose. I have a TRD stage 2/crane cam grind 0012 wich is a little more agressive then your's. I installed it on my celica. The car has about 900 pounds less to haul, so it's not realy a good comparaison, but my Idle isn't smooth under 900rpm-1000rpm. With the stock cam, I could climb a hill in first without giving it gas. Now I feel that the engine doesn't like that. But the car pulls harder from 2500rpm up to the fuel cut (yes it does have one).

Trough many readings, it apears that the best torquer cams are:

RV enginbuilder
EPN 261° "C" (crawler)

Comp cam (which look a lot like yours)
part# 123-4 222F 222F 11.18 11.18 1000-4800 Overlap -2

Crane cam
part# 0010 214F 224F 10.56 10.92 1400-4800 Overlap 5

LC engineering Mild Street Camshaft
Intake Opens 8° BTDC
Intake Closes 32° ABDC
Exhaust Opens 40° BBDC
Exhaust Closes 0° ATDC

Be sure to bump your timing to 8 deg BTDC and the 1982 supra AFM swap would definatly help you better response. Also a good free flow front pipe, cat and catback will give more results. On an engine your alway restricted to the weakest component. More agressive cam=more air entering and more air exiting.
 

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rwdfreak said:
Be sure to bump your timing to 8 deg BTDC and the 1982 supra AFM swap would definatly help you better response. Also a good free flow front pipe, cat and catback will give more results. On an engine your alway restricted to the weakest component. More agressive cam=more air entering and more air exiting.
what is an 82 supra afm swap? well, obviously its an afm swap, but what is the advantage?
 

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The passage is almost twice the size of the stock 22re AFM. Why 1982 only, because it's the only year with the right elctronic in it. You can swap the electronic from a 22re to any MKII supra, that's what I did, but this involve soldering and different setting on the spring/Idle switch. In both swap you need to adjust the spring tensioner. Here's a link for tunning it right.

http://www.celica-gts.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=6759
 
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