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イリジウム
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Yes the Aisin timing kit on rock auto and use the 5% off code in the sticky section. Aisin is a Toyota group company.

Or the Gates timing kit (TCK257?) with either an Aisin pump or I use Airtex pump (no Gates pump yet for me). But this way you might not have any price advantage. Gates these days give you OEM Koyo bearings. For most people it’s easier getting the Aisin kit.

I use a 2’ breaker bar with a 5’cheater pipe. Toyota used a threadlocker at the factory so it’s tight. And you will need a pulley holder like Schley 64300 (verify).

Cam holder a local parts store might have it on the free loaner list. The rear bank access is tight. But I too use PVC from Home Depot to install oil seals. And how’s the valve cover gasket?

 

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Discussion Starter #22
Thanks - may need to pass on the cams owing to lacking in upper body strength even with a cheater bar. I'm not as worried about a small cam seal leak - there's no oil visible anywhere.

Checked out some timing belt kit options at a store nearby - the guy there told me that there are just 1 or maybe 2 manufacturers of these replacement parts now in China - everyone just puts their brand and resells at whatever price they can, so whether I pay more or less, I'm really getting the same parts. Not sure what to believe, but Aisin is a good brand if a bit on the expensive side.

Valve cover gaskets, spark plugs and spark plug tube seals were done recently at 185,000. The rear took forever but the oil leaks and the smoke and smell are gone. There was very little if any sludge but lots of carbon deposits on the covers that I cleaned out completely. I'm guessing there's a fair amount of blow-by. Car idles very quietly like new at 700 rpm and accelerates smoothly.
 

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イリジウム
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12,293 Posts
I think the store was just joking. But my iPhone is made in China ha, Gates belts are made in US or Mexico mostly. You might get a Gates-Unitta made in Japan. the Koyo bearings are Japan.

Aisin reboxes Mitsuboshi belts, some are US made too besides Japan.

Airtex I think maybe Spain, China and Mexico?

Zerex Asian red coolant is about $13/gal at Walmart.
 

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I've done my 1mz's belt kit, and ended up having to use the starter bump method. If I ever do it again, it will be the method used. Also, the Aisin kit is OEM parts, for the price please use it. Highest quality parts you can get for just a few dollars more.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
You guys make good points - timing belts are done once every 15 years with my low driving - there's really no point in getting anything but the Aisin parts. Certainly not worth the hassle of having to go back in and fix something caused by inferior parts.
 

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Camreee
'99 Auto V6
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342 Posts
I forget where I got the information that convinced me but I am now convinced that the 1MZFE engine is non-interference.
Snapped my engines timing belt at 5000 rpm so you might be right.

OPs belt could go another 150k or 5k, nobody knows, but the only real danger is that he gets stuck somewhere when it's inconvenient, or like in a blizzard.

If I were OP I'd leave it alone until I needed to replace the water pump from failure or the timing belt from failure. I don't see any dire reason to replace something that won't damage anything when it breaks and costs half a grand for the privilege, just convenience.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
If I were OP I'd leave it alone until I needed to replace the water pump from failure or the timing belt from failure. I don't see any dire reason to replace something that won't damage anything when it breaks and costs half a grand for the privilege, just convenience.
That's where I was at the beginning of this thread - with less than 8,000 miles a year of local driving and only a very small (and very old) power steering pump leak - let it slide until there's a real reason to do something?

Very interesting, informative and useful discussion - I've learned a lot. Thanks to everyone who contributed - you guys are great!
 

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Very helpful thanks. I am not confident I will be able to break the crank and 2 cam bolts or remove the broken bolt from the tensioner.

Thinking I may start by trying to break the crank bolt without removing anything else and stop right there if I can't. If I can break the crank bolt, worst case, I can leave the 2 cam seals and re-install the tensioner with just the 1 bolt. At the very least I will end with a new water pump, timing belt and drive belts and power steering pump.
Lisle makes an extra-heavy crank bolt socket that multiplies or otherwise enhances the power of an impact wrench. My example is the 19mm crank bolt for a Honda V-6. Forget about holding tools and long pipe extensions. It walked the bolt off in a couple of seconds with three fingers of one hand on the impact wrench and didn't move the pulley itself. Going back on was just as easy. In my case, the spec. was 40 lbs./ft. plus 60 degrees. I did the 40 lbs. with a torque wrench and marked 2/3 of 90 degrees with a marker. Three short "hits" with the impact wrench put the bolt back properly tight, again without moving the crank pulley. From memory it was less than $20. Worth every penny.
 

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Camreee
'99 Auto V6
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342 Posts
Tim
Lisle makes an extra-heavy crank bolt socket that multiplies or otherwise enhances the power of an impact wrench. My example is the 19mm crank bolt for a Honda V-6. Forget about holding tools and long pipe extensions. It walked the bolt off in a couple of seconds with three fingers of one hand on the impact wrench and didn't move the pulley itself. Going back on was just as easy. In my case, the spec. was 40 lbs./ft. plus 60 degrees. I did the 40 lbs. with a torque wrench and marked 2/3 of 90 degrees with a marker. Three short "hits" with the impact wrench put the bolt back properly tight, again without moving the crank pulley. From memory it was less than $20. Worth every penny.

This is $20 at harbor freight and works for everything it can reach in the same manner. Allows you to both grip the impact and grip the speed collar pressing in with both hands as hard as you can while maintaining stability, allowing your impacts to have the most affect.
 
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